Wednesday 12th January 2011
We took the 11 am bus to Puerto Montt with the intention of connecting to Bariloche where we had booked a hostel for 1 night. Ah! Buses to Bariloche leave at 8.15 and the time was now 13.30. Were we up sh·· creek without a paddle? Not at all, we bought a bus ticket from Puerto Varas to Bariloche the next day and jumped on a collectivo to Puerto Varas, time 30 minutes. Via the tourist information we found a hostel for the night and changed our hostel in Bariloche without charge. Puerto Varas is very nice, on a lake with two huge volcanoes in the distance, very touristy and very expensive! The place has a huge German influence regarding beer type, restaurants, street names and hotels. The lasagne price test was applied and Puerto Varas was not found wanting. Yes, a new record of ars pesos 54 or GBP9. Well done Puerto Varas! We took some dinner at a cafe that was also a chocolateria but only had food, no choccies. It was the best hamburger that I have had in the whole of S America so far and amazingly the beer prices were 40% less than the pizzeria at lunchtime. Funny old game!
Tuesday, 18 January 2011
Monday, 17 January 2011
Chiloe
Friday 7th January 2011 -Wednesday 12th January 2011
Having viewed Puerto Montt at dawn we caught the 08.45 Queilan Bus (another first) to Ancud on the island of Chiloe. Altogether there were 15 people standing on the bus. Health and Safety? The bus went on the ferry ( 25 mins) and soon we were at Ancud. First impressions in the sunshine were green, greeen with luxurious vegetation. We took a taxi to the hostel Mundo Nuevo , very nice and run by a Swiss guy. As you would expect from that, the German Language was favourite here! I managed to negotiate a 10% discount on the first two nights and pay full price on Thursday when we came back. It is a nice hostel and comes highly recommended by us. We decided to hire a car to explore the island for 4 days and were pleasantly surprised to pay only Eur 40 per day.
We picked up the car the next day and have it until Wednesday at 10.00. We drove west from Ancud and saw the people gathering a seaweed like substance which apparently becomes agar agar. Two bullocks were in the sea attached to a cart pulling out this agar agar. Round the bay to Fuente Ahui the last Spanish fortress in Chile with a few cannons still intact. We followed on to Punta Corona and were cordially received by the lighthouse keeper and shown round. A picnic lunch followed and we moved the car just before the tide came in. Round to penguin island and coffee but didn´t take the trip because it would have meant waiting 90 minutes and we have seen lots of the little black and white buggers on this trip. It is a beautiful unspoilt coastline and we hear from our host at the hostel that it is planned to put up to 3000 windmills there! In the evening we drove east and around the coast to Caulin, Huiche and back Again unspoilt coastline. I cooked chili for dinner.
On Sunday we drove the dirt roads down the east coast on the Wooden Church trail. This is World Heritage Country for the wooden churches. Quenchi, Aucur, Quicavi and Telaun churches were all visited. We picked up a hitchhiker from Telaun and took the ferry to the island of Quinchao and saw the church at Achao (most beautiful and locked) We went back on the ferry which goes ferry often (don´t laugh at him) to Castro . The hostel was dirty, smelly, lots of people and one bathroom with no cooking allowed. The hostess was very welcoming though! We went down to the waterfront and had mussel soup and salmon for dinner. Totally fresh, inexpensive and lovely. The walk back uphill to the hostel was hard!
On Monday in Castro we went to the wooden Cathedral where the Pope visited so they painted the building purple and yellow for the occasion. The museum was also very nice. We went down to the waterfront again to the fish market and took the trip around the bay to see the palafitos, houses on stilts. Following lunch in a palafito we went back to the car and off to the churches in Dalcahue,Rilan and Llao llao. Sunny and warm all day.
Tuesday found us going west on paved roads to the Parque Nacional at Cucao. The lakes of Hullinco and Cucao are really beautiful with forested banks. We walked around the Parque for a couple of hours . This would make a good place for trekking and camping with lots of good forest trails. On the way back we saw another bullock cart coming back down the road. We drove back via Castro to Ancud about 140 km. Sunny. Marianne ordered a loaf from the hostel which was delicious (integral) but it should have been so for Eur 5.
Wednesday we took the car back with no surcharge but lots of dirt and dust from the roads.
Summary of Chiloe
Wonderful, wonderful. Green with lush dense forest and hills. It certainly is a place for myths and legends. Castro is geared up for Spanish speaking tourism and is well worth a visit. The Nacional Park would make a good place for walking and camping.
Having viewed Puerto Montt at dawn we caught the 08.45 Queilan Bus (another first) to Ancud on the island of Chiloe. Altogether there were 15 people standing on the bus. Health and Safety? The bus went on the ferry ( 25 mins) and soon we were at Ancud. First impressions in the sunshine were green, greeen with luxurious vegetation. We took a taxi to the hostel Mundo Nuevo , very nice and run by a Swiss guy. As you would expect from that, the German Language was favourite here! I managed to negotiate a 10% discount on the first two nights and pay full price on Thursday when we came back. It is a nice hostel and comes highly recommended by us. We decided to hire a car to explore the island for 4 days and were pleasantly surprised to pay only Eur 40 per day.
We picked up the car the next day and have it until Wednesday at 10.00. We drove west from Ancud and saw the people gathering a seaweed like substance which apparently becomes agar agar. Two bullocks were in the sea attached to a cart pulling out this agar agar. Round the bay to Fuente Ahui the last Spanish fortress in Chile with a few cannons still intact. We followed on to Punta Corona and were cordially received by the lighthouse keeper and shown round. A picnic lunch followed and we moved the car just before the tide came in. Round to penguin island and coffee but didn´t take the trip because it would have meant waiting 90 minutes and we have seen lots of the little black and white buggers on this trip. It is a beautiful unspoilt coastline and we hear from our host at the hostel that it is planned to put up to 3000 windmills there! In the evening we drove east and around the coast to Caulin, Huiche and back Again unspoilt coastline. I cooked chili for dinner.
On Sunday we drove the dirt roads down the east coast on the Wooden Church trail. This is World Heritage Country for the wooden churches. Quenchi, Aucur, Quicavi and Telaun churches were all visited. We picked up a hitchhiker from Telaun and took the ferry to the island of Quinchao and saw the church at Achao (most beautiful and locked) We went back on the ferry which goes ferry often (don´t laugh at him) to Castro . The hostel was dirty, smelly, lots of people and one bathroom with no cooking allowed. The hostess was very welcoming though! We went down to the waterfront and had mussel soup and salmon for dinner. Totally fresh, inexpensive and lovely. The walk back uphill to the hostel was hard!
On Monday in Castro we went to the wooden Cathedral where the Pope visited so they painted the building purple and yellow for the occasion. The museum was also very nice. We went down to the waterfront again to the fish market and took the trip around the bay to see the palafitos, houses on stilts. Following lunch in a palafito we went back to the car and off to the churches in Dalcahue,Rilan and Llao llao. Sunny and warm all day.
Tuesday found us going west on paved roads to the Parque Nacional at Cucao. The lakes of Hullinco and Cucao are really beautiful with forested banks. We walked around the Parque for a couple of hours . This would make a good place for trekking and camping with lots of good forest trails. On the way back we saw another bullock cart coming back down the road. We drove back via Castro to Ancud about 140 km. Sunny. Marianne ordered a loaf from the hostel which was delicious (integral) but it should have been so for Eur 5.
Wednesday we took the car back with no surcharge but lots of dirt and dust from the roads.
Summary of Chiloe
Wonderful, wonderful. Green with lush dense forest and hills. It certainly is a place for myths and legends. Castro is geared up for Spanish speaking tourism and is well worth a visit. The Nacional Park would make a good place for walking and camping.
Navimag Ferry - Puerto Natales-Puerto Montt
Monday 3rd January 2011- Friday 7th January 2011
We caught the Bolivian standard Bus Sur , single decker from Rio Turbio to Puerto Natales at 10.30. The bus was probably antique. As we were only 20 passengers we went through both borders like a dose of salts (quickly) and after an early lunch and an Internet Cafe we checked our gear into the Navimag Offices on the quay side at Puerto Natales and wrapped the back packs and day packs in plastic bags, just in cases, to keep the rain out in transit from the offices to our cabin on the boat. The boat arrived 5 hours late but no explanation was given. We boarded at 22.00 and was shown to our AAA cabin ( the most expensive on the boat). Perhaps this is what it means to push the boat out!!!!!! All of the AAA members get a tour of the boat and we were shown our own dining room! Very posh! Did I mention that we got a 15% discount on the fare because we are pensioners!! The plastic bags were a little wet but everything else was dry. Cabins were fine.
On Tuesday the ferry got underway at 05.00 and we met our fellow passengers for breakfast. A Spaniard from Barcelona and his Venezuelan wife, a couple of Swiss Phd students who just booked the wrong price passage and an Australian chap and his wife. I did ask if he had heard the cricket scores and he said not. Lying Aussie.. Apparently we get complimentary wine for lunch and dinner (hic, hic). The Chilean fjords are just as I imagined not very wide with steep, forested sides. We sailed up to an incredible glacier with lots of photos taken. Weather intermittent drizzle and sun and boat very smooth and you don´t really know you are on a boat. A two hour siesta was enjoyed. For some reason we received a nice free bottle of tinto in the cabin. We went on to the bridge to check out the Captain and he was not found wanting. No steering wheel just adjustments to the autopilot. Although they have loads of SatNav etc they still plot the course using manual charts as well.
On Wednesday morning we were up at 06.15 for our trip to Puerto Eden. This is seriously remote and originally was used as a flying boat staging post. This must be a new contender for the "arse end of nowhere" location but this one is beautiful as well. Nothing big enough for the boat to tie up to so about 100 passengers went ashore in motor boats from the port. The people on the island are poor, poor, poor. There must have been six people selling home made trinkets, wooden carvings etc. All incredibly bad quality. Fishing seems to be the main activity and although they have electricity there is no sign of any fish processing plant. The Puerto is in Parque Nacional Bernado O ´Higgins so its pristine nature will be preserved. All walking in the Port is done on board walks. Probably 2 kms or so. After this the sun came out big time and we were where the captain earns his corn "The English Narrows". Quite narrow and where are the lifeboats? springs to mind. After a late lunch and a little siesta we came out of the fjords for the 12 hour sail on the Pacific Ocean. Fantastic with 3 albatrosses following the boat, a couple of dolphins and loads of petrels and cormorants. The sea was calm with no white caps but large swells so we rolled about a bit in the bunk and it was difficult to tell if you had had one too many or the boat was rocking. Possibly both, do I hear you say?
On Thursday the weather was beautiful with full sun. Now the channel is incredibly wide and good views of the Chilean Volcanoes. Would you believe that there is Bingo tonight followed by a Latin Fiesta Evening. The fellow AAA passengers were very impressed with my Bingo knowledge. Legs 11 etc. We were told that breakfast is 07.00 tomorrow and we leave the ship at 08.00.
Bingo was fun in that if you won a prize you had to do a little dance. A fair amount of vino had been consumed by a lot of the passengers so the dancing was good. The Latin evening was tame in comparison.
Friday morning..Stupid, bloody captain arrived at 05.00 two hours early!! What a cretino! We were all woken up the the lovely sound of the anchor being dropped.
Summary of the Evangelistas Ferry of Navimag. Although we paid a small fortune for the tickets (less pensioner discount of 15%) we believe it was worth it. The other classes all ate together in a "canteen" which was at best plastic. Apparently the food was fine and lots of it. We also had good weather. If it had been raining for 4 days , jumping of the boat would have been considered. If you want to take the trip, pay the money for AAA and pray for good weather. We had horses on our boat and no cows so there was no smell of cow shite as Malcolm and Linda, our new mates had, on their trip.
We caught the Bolivian standard Bus Sur , single decker from Rio Turbio to Puerto Natales at 10.30. The bus was probably antique. As we were only 20 passengers we went through both borders like a dose of salts (quickly) and after an early lunch and an Internet Cafe we checked our gear into the Navimag Offices on the quay side at Puerto Natales and wrapped the back packs and day packs in plastic bags, just in cases, to keep the rain out in transit from the offices to our cabin on the boat. The boat arrived 5 hours late but no explanation was given. We boarded at 22.00 and was shown to our AAA cabin ( the most expensive on the boat). Perhaps this is what it means to push the boat out!!!!!! All of the AAA members get a tour of the boat and we were shown our own dining room! Very posh! Did I mention that we got a 15% discount on the fare because we are pensioners!! The plastic bags were a little wet but everything else was dry. Cabins were fine.
On Tuesday the ferry got underway at 05.00 and we met our fellow passengers for breakfast. A Spaniard from Barcelona and his Venezuelan wife, a couple of Swiss Phd students who just booked the wrong price passage and an Australian chap and his wife. I did ask if he had heard the cricket scores and he said not. Lying Aussie.. Apparently we get complimentary wine for lunch and dinner (hic, hic). The Chilean fjords are just as I imagined not very wide with steep, forested sides. We sailed up to an incredible glacier with lots of photos taken. Weather intermittent drizzle and sun and boat very smooth and you don´t really know you are on a boat. A two hour siesta was enjoyed. For some reason we received a nice free bottle of tinto in the cabin. We went on to the bridge to check out the Captain and he was not found wanting. No steering wheel just adjustments to the autopilot. Although they have loads of SatNav etc they still plot the course using manual charts as well.
On Wednesday morning we were up at 06.15 for our trip to Puerto Eden. This is seriously remote and originally was used as a flying boat staging post. This must be a new contender for the "arse end of nowhere" location but this one is beautiful as well. Nothing big enough for the boat to tie up to so about 100 passengers went ashore in motor boats from the port. The people on the island are poor, poor, poor. There must have been six people selling home made trinkets, wooden carvings etc. All incredibly bad quality. Fishing seems to be the main activity and although they have electricity there is no sign of any fish processing plant. The Puerto is in Parque Nacional Bernado O ´Higgins so its pristine nature will be preserved. All walking in the Port is done on board walks. Probably 2 kms or so. After this the sun came out big time and we were where the captain earns his corn "The English Narrows". Quite narrow and where are the lifeboats? springs to mind. After a late lunch and a little siesta we came out of the fjords for the 12 hour sail on the Pacific Ocean. Fantastic with 3 albatrosses following the boat, a couple of dolphins and loads of petrels and cormorants. The sea was calm with no white caps but large swells so we rolled about a bit in the bunk and it was difficult to tell if you had had one too many or the boat was rocking. Possibly both, do I hear you say?
On Thursday the weather was beautiful with full sun. Now the channel is incredibly wide and good views of the Chilean Volcanoes. Would you believe that there is Bingo tonight followed by a Latin Fiesta Evening. The fellow AAA passengers were very impressed with my Bingo knowledge. Legs 11 etc. We were told that breakfast is 07.00 tomorrow and we leave the ship at 08.00.
Bingo was fun in that if you won a prize you had to do a little dance. A fair amount of vino had been consumed by a lot of the passengers so the dancing was good. The Latin evening was tame in comparison.
Friday morning..Stupid, bloody captain arrived at 05.00 two hours early!! What a cretino! We were all woken up the the lovely sound of the anchor being dropped.
Summary of the Evangelistas Ferry of Navimag. Although we paid a small fortune for the tickets (less pensioner discount of 15%) we believe it was worth it. The other classes all ate together in a "canteen" which was at best plastic. Apparently the food was fine and lots of it. We also had good weather. If it had been raining for 4 days , jumping of the boat would have been considered. If you want to take the trip, pay the money for AAA and pray for good weather. We had horses on our boat and no cows so there was no smell of cow shite as Malcolm and Linda, our new mates had, on their trip.
Rio Turbio (Even the Argentinos say "Where?"
Thursday 30th December 2010-Monday 3rd January 2011
We got the 12 noon bus from El Calafate and stopped at La Esperanza (half way across Argentina and very Estepa) and had some lunch and changed buses. The only accommodation to be found in Rio Turbio was the Hotel at ars250. Expensive for us but beggars can´t be choosers. We went through the town of 28th November ( stupid name, no?) and it had been described as pretty to us by the tourist office in Puerto Deseado. Another town to write down on your "do not visit list" . Put Rio Turbio down twice and underline it. 10,000 people and coal mining.
Next day Ianne had come out in large rashes again so we asked the hotel to get a doctor and 5 minutes later the ambulance arrived and whisked us off to hospital. After 4 hours on a drip and lots of cortisone injections Ianne was discharged and felt better. She was warned that the rashes may return and given a fairly strict diet. Incredibly, there was no charge for the ambulance and treatment.
As nothing is open New Year´s Evening and New Year´s Day we had our dinner at lunchtime and it was the best ( and most expensive) on the trip so far. Lots of beef! Both Lise and Hanne telephoned so we were happy.
On New Year´s Day everything closed but we could get breakfast at the hotel. We went for a walk to one of the hills that overlook the town and had a stunning view of the snow capped Chile mountains. It was overcast and not to hot which was good because Ianne had been told to keep out of the sun. We had corned beef sandwiches for lunch and tuna sandwiches for dinner, watched 3 films and watched Liverpool beat Bolton 2-1.
Had a 2 hour siesta and then slept for 10 hours. Next day we found an Internet Cafe and managed to send some emails. We had lunch and dinner at the hotel as nothing else was open. The tourist office looked permanently closed. What a surprise. Very nice notice on the hotel wall. The French leave here with the most favourable impressions, the Italians leave here with the most favourable ambiance and the Argentios leave here with the most towels!
Summary of Rio Turbio. It is 10 minutes from the Chile border and that road looks very good in your rear view mirror! However if you want a really nice dinner the 1 hotel will oblige. There has never been a horse here.
We got the 12 noon bus from El Calafate and stopped at La Esperanza (half way across Argentina and very Estepa) and had some lunch and changed buses. The only accommodation to be found in Rio Turbio was the Hotel at ars250. Expensive for us but beggars can´t be choosers. We went through the town of 28th November ( stupid name, no?) and it had been described as pretty to us by the tourist office in Puerto Deseado. Another town to write down on your "do not visit list" . Put Rio Turbio down twice and underline it. 10,000 people and coal mining.
Next day Ianne had come out in large rashes again so we asked the hotel to get a doctor and 5 minutes later the ambulance arrived and whisked us off to hospital. After 4 hours on a drip and lots of cortisone injections Ianne was discharged and felt better. She was warned that the rashes may return and given a fairly strict diet. Incredibly, there was no charge for the ambulance and treatment.
As nothing is open New Year´s Evening and New Year´s Day we had our dinner at lunchtime and it was the best ( and most expensive) on the trip so far. Lots of beef! Both Lise and Hanne telephoned so we were happy.
On New Year´s Day everything closed but we could get breakfast at the hotel. We went for a walk to one of the hills that overlook the town and had a stunning view of the snow capped Chile mountains. It was overcast and not to hot which was good because Ianne had been told to keep out of the sun. We had corned beef sandwiches for lunch and tuna sandwiches for dinner, watched 3 films and watched Liverpool beat Bolton 2-1.
Had a 2 hour siesta and then slept for 10 hours. Next day we found an Internet Cafe and managed to send some emails. We had lunch and dinner at the hotel as nothing else was open. The tourist office looked permanently closed. What a surprise. Very nice notice on the hotel wall. The French leave here with the most favourable impressions, the Italians leave here with the most favourable ambiance and the Argentios leave here with the most towels!
Summary of Rio Turbio. It is 10 minutes from the Chile border and that road looks very good in your rear view mirror! However if you want a really nice dinner the 1 hotel will oblige. There has never been a horse here.
El Calafate (Again)
Wednesday 29th January 2010
We took the bus back to El Calafate, and to hostel Buenos Aires again and were welcomed like long lost friends. Juan ( the manager) had returned from Buenos Aires for Christmas and he thought he had put on 4 kilos.We stopped half way on the journey at a hotel in the middle of nowhere where allegedly Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid stopped for a month on their way to Chile. Nice place as a Parador where horse riding and white water rafting ( not too wild can be enjoyed). If we had a car it might be a nice place to visit. The hotel is also reputed to make the best empanadas in Argentina. They were good! All buses to El Chalten stop there.
The next day Ianne had come out in a rash so we called the doctor in and an allergic reaction to something eaten was the diagnosis. Got some tablets. Red patches everywhere on the body and itchy beyond belief.
We took the bus back to El Calafate, and to hostel Buenos Aires again and were welcomed like long lost friends. Juan ( the manager) had returned from Buenos Aires for Christmas and he thought he had put on 4 kilos.We stopped half way on the journey at a hotel in the middle of nowhere where allegedly Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid stopped for a month on their way to Chile. Nice place as a Parador where horse riding and white water rafting ( not too wild can be enjoyed). If we had a car it might be a nice place to visit. The hotel is also reputed to make the best empanadas in Argentina. They were good! All buses to El Chalten stop there.
The next day Ianne had come out in a rash so we called the doctor in and an allergic reaction to something eaten was the diagnosis. Got some tablets. Red patches everywhere on the body and itchy beyond belief.
Tuesday, 28 December 2010
El Chalten (or Israel in Argentina)
Saturday 25th December - Tuesday 28th December 2010
I went out early to get money. Only 1 ATM working, no change there! We had a late breakfast at the hostel and caught the bus at 13.00. The trip took exactly 3 1/4 hours including a 15 minute stop half way for relief and coffee. Near El Chalten ( only 25 years old) the bus stopped for us to take pictures of the mountains behind El Chalten and a long distance view of the Viedma Glacier and Lake, with blue icebergs.
At El Chalten we were welcomed into the office of the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, given a map of the trekking capabilities and a 15 minute talk on the dos and don´ts within the Parque. We found our hostel (most expensive so far on our while trip) 5 blocks up and 2 across from the bus station. The ATM is directly across the road from the bus station and had no money. There is no bank.
We took an evening stroll to the waterfall, 8 km round trip,very nice and had a super pizza for dinner on the way home. Went to bed at 23.00 tired and happy. Weather very blustery!
El Chalten only exists to cater for the needs of the trekkers in the Nacional Parque. If you don´t trek, want to ride a hire bike or ride on a horse, then do not come here. The location is sensational and it is the trekking capital of Argentina. It has lots of wooden houses, little shops, hostels and restaurants and is very small compared to El Calafate.
The next day found us walking to the mirador del Torre. A glacial valley with mountains and a glacier at the end and in the distance. We saw 2 condors briefly and it was blustery but quite warm. Although there were many walkers the trails was not crowded and we filled our water bottle from the stream. We estimate a total distance covered of 10-11km and we walked the northerly route back into town . Very steep descent and would have been very difficult to climb up and out of town. It started raining and HC went into an Internet cafe to get a message to Dave that she is OK. No mobile coverage here. Due to our exertions we had a roll for lunch and a 3 hour siesta. Excellent! We had a couple of beers and a game of cards on the hostel before dinner. The bastards in the restaurant tried to overcharge us by 20 pesos. Why do they do this! HC was left to point it out nicely. I am afraid that my method would not have been so diplomatic. Absolutely peeing down and cold on the walk back to the hostel.
Next day calm and sunny and we walked up to the Condor and Aguilar miradors. I walked to the Aguilar on my own because the walk up was steep and MC and HC needed a little rest. The viewpoint from Aguilar is over the plain to Lago Viedma ( blue icebergs) and very nice. We had lunch out for a change and my pumpkin soup was excellent. Ianne and I walked up to book horse riding for the next day and HC had an extended nap. Internet here costs GBP2 or EUR2.35 for an hour. Very expensive.
On 28th we had an early breakfast and we all walked up to where HC and MC were to start their horse ride. I hit my trail at 09.30 and went up, up, up for 7 kms with wind against. Even for an experienced trekker like me(!) it was tough. The funny thing is that other walkers didn´t find it so tough! Any road up I was rewarded with a fantastic view of Mount Fitz Roy from the mirador and then on to turquoise blue Laguna Capri and camping without facilities. Pausing briefly to take a little coffee from my flask and do what bears do in the woods, I took some pictures of the fungus that affects all of the trees in Patagonia and destroys the leaves. I left the viewpoint at 12.00 and had arranged to meet the girls at 13.00 at the end of their ride. I arrived at 13.00 they were half an hour late.
On the way down I heard a toc, toc, toc and there he was the carpintero ( wood pecker) busy at his task about 8 metres off the trail. Photos were taken. Then, bugger me, a man was leading two fully laden llamas up the trail. Where they were going and why is a mystery but again photos were taken. The reference to Israel is that El Chalten is full of Israelis and there were maybe 300 on the trail going up as I was coming down and I am surrounded by Hebrew ( a nasty language on the ear) in the Internet Cafe. Why they are all here I have no idea.
When the girls came back they could barely walk. A coffee was taken and a well earned siesta , 2 hours was enjoyed. Tonight is our last night in El Chalten and tomorrow we are back to El Calafate where HC starts her plane journeys back to Buenos Aires and Cordoba, Aerolineas Argentinas willing!
Summary of El Chalten; Stunning location and facilities if you enjoy trekking and we have all enjoyed it very much. More expensive than anywhere else we have been on our travels. Everybody knows lasagne
The next episode in this everyday story of travelling folk will be from Rio Turbio (The 1 horse left town a long time ago)
I went out early to get money. Only 1 ATM working, no change there! We had a late breakfast at the hostel and caught the bus at 13.00. The trip took exactly 3 1/4 hours including a 15 minute stop half way for relief and coffee. Near El Chalten ( only 25 years old) the bus stopped for us to take pictures of the mountains behind El Chalten and a long distance view of the Viedma Glacier and Lake, with blue icebergs.
At El Chalten we were welcomed into the office of the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, given a map of the trekking capabilities and a 15 minute talk on the dos and don´ts within the Parque. We found our hostel (most expensive so far on our while trip) 5 blocks up and 2 across from the bus station. The ATM is directly across the road from the bus station and had no money. There is no bank.
We took an evening stroll to the waterfall, 8 km round trip,very nice and had a super pizza for dinner on the way home. Went to bed at 23.00 tired and happy. Weather very blustery!
El Chalten only exists to cater for the needs of the trekkers in the Nacional Parque. If you don´t trek, want to ride a hire bike or ride on a horse, then do not come here. The location is sensational and it is the trekking capital of Argentina. It has lots of wooden houses, little shops, hostels and restaurants and is very small compared to El Calafate.
The next day found us walking to the mirador del Torre. A glacial valley with mountains and a glacier at the end and in the distance. We saw 2 condors briefly and it was blustery but quite warm. Although there were many walkers the trails was not crowded and we filled our water bottle from the stream. We estimate a total distance covered of 10-11km and we walked the northerly route back into town . Very steep descent and would have been very difficult to climb up and out of town. It started raining and HC went into an Internet cafe to get a message to Dave that she is OK. No mobile coverage here. Due to our exertions we had a roll for lunch and a 3 hour siesta. Excellent! We had a couple of beers and a game of cards on the hostel before dinner. The bastards in the restaurant tried to overcharge us by 20 pesos. Why do they do this! HC was left to point it out nicely. I am afraid that my method would not have been so diplomatic. Absolutely peeing down and cold on the walk back to the hostel.
Next day calm and sunny and we walked up to the Condor and Aguilar miradors. I walked to the Aguilar on my own because the walk up was steep and MC and HC needed a little rest. The viewpoint from Aguilar is over the plain to Lago Viedma ( blue icebergs) and very nice. We had lunch out for a change and my pumpkin soup was excellent. Ianne and I walked up to book horse riding for the next day and HC had an extended nap. Internet here costs GBP2 or EUR2.35 for an hour. Very expensive.
On 28th we had an early breakfast and we all walked up to where HC and MC were to start their horse ride. I hit my trail at 09.30 and went up, up, up for 7 kms with wind against. Even for an experienced trekker like me(!) it was tough. The funny thing is that other walkers didn´t find it so tough! Any road up I was rewarded with a fantastic view of Mount Fitz Roy from the mirador and then on to turquoise blue Laguna Capri and camping without facilities. Pausing briefly to take a little coffee from my flask and do what bears do in the woods, I took some pictures of the fungus that affects all of the trees in Patagonia and destroys the leaves. I left the viewpoint at 12.00 and had arranged to meet the girls at 13.00 at the end of their ride. I arrived at 13.00 they were half an hour late.
On the way down I heard a toc, toc, toc and there he was the carpintero ( wood pecker) busy at his task about 8 metres off the trail. Photos were taken. Then, bugger me, a man was leading two fully laden llamas up the trail. Where they were going and why is a mystery but again photos were taken. The reference to Israel is that El Chalten is full of Israelis and there were maybe 300 on the trail going up as I was coming down and I am surrounded by Hebrew ( a nasty language on the ear) in the Internet Cafe. Why they are all here I have no idea.
When the girls came back they could barely walk. A coffee was taken and a well earned siesta , 2 hours was enjoyed. Tonight is our last night in El Chalten and tomorrow we are back to El Calafate where HC starts her plane journeys back to Buenos Aires and Cordoba, Aerolineas Argentinas willing!
Summary of El Chalten; Stunning location and facilities if you enjoy trekking and we have all enjoyed it very much. More expensive than anywhere else we have been on our travels. Everybody knows lasagne
The next episode in this everyday story of travelling folk will be from Rio Turbio (The 1 horse left town a long time ago)
Monday, 27 December 2010
El Calafate
Monday 20th December - Saturday 25th December 2010
We left Puerto Natales for El Calafate at 08.30 and went through both lots of Customs and into Argentina in under an hour. Considering we were on a full 48 seater bus this must be some sort of record! The trip took 7 hours in total and we settled into Hostal Buenos Aires, nice and comfortable and only 1 1/2 blocks from the bus terminal.
Next day we wandered round the laguna with flamingos, ducks etc and picked Hanne up from the airport. We ate at a pizza restaurant and continued to be amazed at how expensive Argentina has become. We earlier discovered that someone had been trying to use our credit cards on line when we tried to use them to book the Glacier Mini trekking trip. After a very expensive telephone call to the UK we found out that the bank had blocked all of these so that was not an issue but we had to let them block the cards and send us new ones, to Tavizna and then Cordoba......Bummer. It totally peed down for 4 hours and was not warm.
Next day found us wandering around in El Calafate and trying to get cash from 1 of the ATM´s. There are 5 in total and only 1 had any money. You can only take out 1000 pesos per day and with no credit cards, this becomes a problem. Not to be outdone we transferred funds into HC´s UK Nationwide account and she could then also get money out.
El Calafate exists to only service tourist visits to Perito Moreno Glacier. As such it is full of hotels, hostels, restaurants and travel agencies but the houses and gardens are really nicely maintained and wood features widely. Supermarkets are not allowed to give or sell plastic bags It peed down for 5 hours.
Next day in good weather we had a full day including mini trekking (90 mins) on the Glacier. Firstly on the bus the 90 kms and then on a boat to the face of the glacier. Then across the lake to start the trekking on the glacier and get your crampons on. I was fine going up the hills but no good going down and needed help. Marianne and Hanne did good work. Then we went back to the refugio to eat our home made lunch and at 15.15 we took the boat back. We had about an hour on the walkways with the face of the glacier very close( new since Steffen and Lise were there) and very well made as was the cafeteria. All in all the Nacional Park has spent its money on providing excellent facilities. After this tiring day I cooked curry chorizo with green and red peppers. Hanne´s face was very red. She had forgotten to put sun block on. We also had to borrow some shades from the bus driver for her It would have been very silly not to have sun glasses on the glacier! Amazing day with sunshine all the way!
Next day we were all candidates for the Rudolph Red Nose Reindeer prize..Ianne and I went for a little walk and HC slept in. Again all ATM´s except one were empty. We spoke to Lise and Coby on the hostel Skype with no picture from us possible. The hostel is not doing anything special for Christmas. Weather sunny and just a little sweater needed. Xmas dinner tonight at El Cucharon. We had to pay a deposit to secure a table and the set price is ARS230 , 3 course, not Christmas food, excluding booze. This price was enough. The restaurant was full of tourists with people being turned away. Nice food then some free fizz and sweet cakes , sweet bread and sugared peanuts. Value for money would have to be questioned but not ouch! On the way home at 12 midnight the fireworks started. My God they do like a nice firework! The hostel had some free cider and sweet cakes. All I wanted was a cup of coffee.
Summary El Calafate. It is nice but expensive and they need to sort out the ATM situation for the thousands of tourists who come to see the Perito Moreno Glacier. Again it is a one trick pony of a town with the Glacier as the only attraction. Next El Chalten (resident population about 500), the trekking capital of Argentina and rumour has it even more expensive than El Calafate. Holy peso Batman, can this be true? To find out the answer, be sure to tune in to the next episode of this blog...
We left Puerto Natales for El Calafate at 08.30 and went through both lots of Customs and into Argentina in under an hour. Considering we were on a full 48 seater bus this must be some sort of record! The trip took 7 hours in total and we settled into Hostal Buenos Aires, nice and comfortable and only 1 1/2 blocks from the bus terminal.
Next day we wandered round the laguna with flamingos, ducks etc and picked Hanne up from the airport. We ate at a pizza restaurant and continued to be amazed at how expensive Argentina has become. We earlier discovered that someone had been trying to use our credit cards on line when we tried to use them to book the Glacier Mini trekking trip. After a very expensive telephone call to the UK we found out that the bank had blocked all of these so that was not an issue but we had to let them block the cards and send us new ones, to Tavizna and then Cordoba......Bummer. It totally peed down for 4 hours and was not warm.
Next day found us wandering around in El Calafate and trying to get cash from 1 of the ATM´s. There are 5 in total and only 1 had any money. You can only take out 1000 pesos per day and with no credit cards, this becomes a problem. Not to be outdone we transferred funds into HC´s UK Nationwide account and she could then also get money out.
El Calafate exists to only service tourist visits to Perito Moreno Glacier. As such it is full of hotels, hostels, restaurants and travel agencies but the houses and gardens are really nicely maintained and wood features widely. Supermarkets are not allowed to give or sell plastic bags It peed down for 5 hours.
Next day in good weather we had a full day including mini trekking (90 mins) on the Glacier. Firstly on the bus the 90 kms and then on a boat to the face of the glacier. Then across the lake to start the trekking on the glacier and get your crampons on. I was fine going up the hills but no good going down and needed help. Marianne and Hanne did good work. Then we went back to the refugio to eat our home made lunch and at 15.15 we took the boat back. We had about an hour on the walkways with the face of the glacier very close( new since Steffen and Lise were there) and very well made as was the cafeteria. All in all the Nacional Park has spent its money on providing excellent facilities. After this tiring day I cooked curry chorizo with green and red peppers. Hanne´s face was very red. She had forgotten to put sun block on. We also had to borrow some shades from the bus driver for her It would have been very silly not to have sun glasses on the glacier! Amazing day with sunshine all the way!
Next day we were all candidates for the Rudolph Red Nose Reindeer prize..Ianne and I went for a little walk and HC slept in. Again all ATM´s except one were empty. We spoke to Lise and Coby on the hostel Skype with no picture from us possible. The hostel is not doing anything special for Christmas. Weather sunny and just a little sweater needed. Xmas dinner tonight at El Cucharon. We had to pay a deposit to secure a table and the set price is ARS230 , 3 course, not Christmas food, excluding booze. This price was enough. The restaurant was full of tourists with people being turned away. Nice food then some free fizz and sweet cakes , sweet bread and sugared peanuts. Value for money would have to be questioned but not ouch! On the way home at 12 midnight the fireworks started. My God they do like a nice firework! The hostel had some free cider and sweet cakes. All I wanted was a cup of coffee.
Summary El Calafate. It is nice but expensive and they need to sort out the ATM situation for the thousands of tourists who come to see the Perito Moreno Glacier. Again it is a one trick pony of a town with the Glacier as the only attraction. Next El Chalten (resident population about 500), the trekking capital of Argentina and rumour has it even more expensive than El Calafate. Holy peso Batman, can this be true? To find out the answer, be sure to tune in to the next episode of this blog...
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