Monday 18th October
Took 10 o'clock bus from Arica to La Paz. On the way out of town the bus stopped for "cash" customers. The money was shared equally between the conductor and driver. We were on the Bolivian Nordic bus and got front seats. We had to pay CLP200 to leave the bus station. Apparently this is common practice in Bolivia and Peru but it was a first for us. Bolivian time 1 hour behind Chile. The speedometer on the bus does not work! Going up, up, up. Parque Lorca absolutely stunning . Camera battery ran out! We were at Tungua at 4500 metres with snow capped volcanoes and lakes. A queue of 5 kilometres of trucks was waiting to cross from Bolivia into Chile!!! How long??? Crossed into Bolivia at 4660 metres.
At 14.00 the bus stopped when 30 minutes into Bolivia. Over heating big time. No mobile signal for the driver!!! Being stuck is one thing, at 4500 metres is another! Driver says a relief bus will be with us in 2-3 hours. How he knows this is not understandable. This place we stopped is in the middle of nowhere and suddenly a minibus appears and 9 of us load into it to go to La Paz. This recommended by a lady with joint Bolivian/Chilean nationality who speaks English! The journey is not good. Cramped. Maybe 200-300 km, who knows. The fare is BOBS 25 (or GBP 2.40) . No that is not a mistake!
Many, many llamas in the green valleys. They are a bloody nuisance because they have no road sense and cross right in front of the minibus. Approaching La Paz snow covered mountains and subsistence agriculture.
The people look as poor as church mice and there are ladies in bowler hats and full regalia ploughing the fields with cows. Nearly all buildings adobe. God alone knows about sanitation. The road in leads to El Alto, which is the indigenous capital of Bolivia and looks it! Having negotiated a fee of 25 per person the driver plans to drop us in Al Alto (makes a ghetto look like a Sunday School Outing) so the passengers revolt and a new fee of 40 BOBS or under GBP 4 is negotiated to take us the 10 km up then down the hill to the bus station. La Paz has seriously steep roads everywhere. All of the mini bus passengers (we go with the flow) now go to the Nordic Bus counter at the terminal and scream and shout for half an hour to get the 40 BOBS back. We were totally knackered but had to support our new found friends. Eventually they all got 40 BOBS discount on the return fare. No use to us because we were not going back.
Our new Chilean/Bolivian friend also told us that there was no way we could stay at the hostel we had booked because the area was far too dodgy! So 3 couples, us included piled into 2 taxis to the Hotel Saranaga which is 100 metres off the main drag "El Prado" and got a double, ensuite for GBP10 including breakfast. We asked for a local restaurant and were guided to one nearby. Food perfectly fine and inexpensive. Crawled into bed altitude sick and exhausted at 21.30. What a day! Now we really are having "adventures"
Tuesday 19th October
Bread for breakfast was better than anything in Chile. ATM just outside hotel so got some BOBS (Bolivanos or Pesos). Walked down to San Francisco church, (no cactus involved) and millions of people and women in Bowler Hats and big skirts everywhere. Found the tourist office and it had closed ten minutes before. Sat down and people watched then went down "El Prado" to a "South American Cultural Promotion" on Plaza Estudiantes right by the University. Saw some children doing local dances. Had another coffee stop with Te Coca for Mummy. A new feature never seen before is the "tout" who leans out of the collectivo minibus shouting out where the bus is going. There are a lot of "Jeepnies" like Manilla. Multicoloured minibuses. Went on the cheapest City Bus Tour of all time BOBS50. Very good and very good value. "The North Face" has a shop in La Paz.
To celebrate 200 yeas of La Paz there was a spectacular with loads of indiginous dancing, singing etc. We watched maybe 8 performances and then got a bit cold so we went back to nearby the hotel for some dinner.
Summary of day 1 in La Paz. Polluted beyond belief with traffic fumes, millions of cars, minibuses, coaches and people. That alone makes the breathing difficult never mind the altitude, just under 4000 metres. Having a good time though.
Wednesday 20th October
Booked to go to Lake Titicaca tomorrow on a proper coach. The price difference between that and a possibly very dodgy "collectivo" is GBP2, not worth the risk. Wandered down "El Prado" and calculated how many BOBS we would need for the next few days, Copacabana has no ATM! Posted some postcards to Spain and Denmark. Wonder how long they will take? Lady in post office assured us that all mail outside Bolivia goes by air. Got presents for Hanne, Coby and Spanish chicas but not going to tell you what they are, except Lise and Chad might not be too pleased with 1 present for Coby, jejejejeje!
Tried the Bolivian Sauvignon Blanc. Yes there is such a thing and sorry Tito Michael, the Letchworth Barolo does not get near this splendid wine! Have to get up at 06.30 tomorrow. All Bolivian restaurants are dimly lit but the food is fine and typically pastas, chips, burgers, salads, lomitos etc and always nicely cooked. Sprinkling of rain, first on tour. Millions of school children wandering up and down "El Prado".
Friday 22 October 2010
Friday 15 October 2010
San Pedro de Atacama
Monday 11th October.
Got up at 06.30 for the bus to San Pedro de Atacama @ 08.00 for a 10 hour journey. North of Chañaral desert, desert, desert. This time we took Turbus and it was the first time that our headphones for the videos worked. Will not travel with Elquibus again. The film was with Bruce Lee and Jet Li. Normal Kung Fuey but at least we could hear the words although Marianne soon lost interest. On Pan Am going north to Arica 1000km. Desert, desert etc and got to Antofogasta in 5 hours, half way. We managed to sit in the front of the bus bewtween Calama and San Pedsro, about 90 minutes. Arrived SP in 10 hours 30 minutes.
San Pedro is a desert tourist village with hostels, hotels, tour operators, restaurants, internet cafes, dirt roads and millions of tourists. I had a monster head ache which could be the change in altitude and we both had motion sickness. San Pedro is 2300 metres above sea level. We booked into a Residential which we had recommended to us by a traveller we had spoken with in La Serena. We had a three bed room for the price of two. Can´t be bad. Only milk to be found, full cream. Only bread to be found, white.
Tuesday 12 October
Not planning to do a lot today and will try to get acclimatised before we take trips up to the altiplano at up to 4500 metres. Not cold overnight and we wandered round trying to find our feet (they were attached to our legs of course, don´t laugh , it will only encourage him) . Visited the church (notable for the use of cactus wood throughout) and the history of Atacama museum. This was excellent. Found a decent Internet cafe and tried to hook the camera up so that we could put pictures on the blog. Not a prayer. Photos will have to wait until we get to back to Cordoba, November 19th ish. Also we think this camera is crap so we will buy another one when we next get to a town of any size. Not many Brazilians here but loads of French, German, Dutch tourists.
We have to be careful in the restaurants as the bill can get quite large, quite quickly especially with a glass of average "tinto" @ GBP3. Beautiful sunset. Booked for Valle de la Luna tomorrow and Flamingoes and Lakes and Altiplano on Thursday and Geysers on Friday.
Wednesday 13th October
Decided to go directly to Arica on the overnight bus on Friday night and booked a hostel. Bus arrives 05.30 Saturday. We said we would be arriving at hostel 06.00. Only time will tell what will happen when we arrive. Bought some steak, tomatoes and onions for dinner to be washed down with some Errazuriz Cab Sauv 2009 at about GBP3.
Went on the Valley of the Moon trip at 16.00 and first went to Death Valley where lots of people were sandboarding. Cedd has done this he says! Next a cave system which involved crawling on all 4´s and finally a nice uphill walk on heavy sand for 20 minutes to get to the top of the ridge to see the sunset. Lots of people. There was a spectacular sunset when the mountains and volcanoes looking to the west turned red.
We got back at 20.30 for dinner and at 22.00 the church bells rang out and this coincided with an air raid siren ( we found out later it was the fire department) both making a fearful racket. It transpired that the last miner had been rescued and this was the cue for the noise.
Thursday 14th October
Up at 06.00 for the trip and it was bloody cold. The minibus went directly to Laguna Chaxa where we saw the sun rise over the salt lakes and lots of flamingoes. A super spectacle but freezing cold. There was still ice on the lakes. The air was fantastically clear. Our guide, who had lived for 3 years in Richmond, Surrey , had the breakfast. Hot coffee with ham and cheese and rolls and biscuits. This is in the Saltar de Atacama the third largest salt lake in the world.
On the the village of Socaire @2700 metres and the only reason this village exists is because it has a river flowing through it. We had to walk for 15 minutes because we were now going up to the altiplano at 4500metres+. On the way up we came across a fox and the little tinkerbell just sat there looking at the minibus and posing for photos (or so it seemed).
Up and up to the volcanic lakes at Miscanti and Miñiques. At this point we were only a few kilometres from the crossing into Argentina at 4600 metres. Although the lakes were blue, blue, blue and the sun was shining it was still quite chilly. Then we saw a herd of Vicuña and they probably liked it there because of the water.
I was quite light headed although the walking was ok and on the way back down there were three trucks headed for Salta. At the unremarkable pueblo of Tocono we were invited into a little old lady´s shop. Native handicrafts etc but at the back she had 2 llamas and two very woolly sheep. We bought a miniature llama for Ianne´s shelf. Warmest day so far.
Got back at 13.00 and I got the written blog up to date. Tomorrow we have to be up at 03.30 for a 04.00 pickup and we have been told to expect temperatures of between -10 and -20. Full load of thermal underwear and complete "North Face" protection required. We both bought woolly hats and woolly gloves. Did not expect this until Patagonia!
Apart from a propensity to turn the electric (and the water to the toilet) off at 21.00 the hostel is very good.
Chilean joke. The guide told me that he and the driver had Argentian blood. He then pointed to his knuckles and the front of the minibus!!!!
Spent 2 hours 15 minutes in the Internet cafe getting the blog up to date.The man said the bill should be CLP2000 but where was mummy from. Denmark. Then the bill would only be CLP1000 because his grandfather was Danish and his name was Petersen. We have had lots of discounts for being old but have never had a Nationality discount before.
Friday 15th October
Up at the unchristly hour of 03.30 ready for the 04.00-04.30 pick up for the El Tatioo Geyser Tour. At 4.35 the minibus arrived much to our relief. Ianne was wearing a swimming costume, knickers, thermal trousers and vest, 3 T shirts, 1 long sleeved T-shirt, cardigan, fleece, ski jacket (with hood up) plus new woolly hat, gloves and scarf (non-itchy)I had similar. We thought we would not need this tackle until Patagonia! 90minutes of very bad road and darkness later we arrived at the geysers. Temperature outside -10C.
After a call of nature we went to the geyser fields where, at 10 minutes to sun up, the temperature was -14C and bloody freezing cold. At first sun up people actually shed all of their togs and waded into the thermal pool. There must have been 20 or so people bathing. Dear reader, I will let you decide whether either Jack or Marianne bathed.
Back to the minibus for coffee, cheese sandwiches and biscuits. We were both as cold as frozen turds. We were at 4500 metres altitude so that could explain something. Despite the early start the geysers are pretty amazing and once inside the bus we began to thaw out.
Next stop was a bridge over the river Putana ( yes that is the correct name) which emanates from the volcano of the same name. Lots of nice birds and ice in the river at 4200 metres asl.
Onwards to the village of Machua population 8, where we had fresh cooked empanadas (delicious) , llama kebabs (pinchitos) and a cup of tea with herbs supposed to reduce altitude sickness. I was a little light headed but not really surprising given the heights.
Going back we saw a small herd of llamas feeding in the river, all llamas being domestic animals. Then on the way to cactus valley we saw our first heard of guanacos. Cactus valley is nice with a river running through that eventually irrigates San Pedro. Lots of very large cactii whose name escapes me but all are protected species.
Got back about 12, packed and put the cases into Hostel storage for our departure this evening. Had a light lunch and endeavoured (and succeeded) in bringing this blog up to date. Whew!
Weather here 25-30C Sunny and hot.
Got up at 06.30 for the bus to San Pedro de Atacama @ 08.00 for a 10 hour journey. North of Chañaral desert, desert, desert. This time we took Turbus and it was the first time that our headphones for the videos worked. Will not travel with Elquibus again. The film was with Bruce Lee and Jet Li. Normal Kung Fuey but at least we could hear the words although Marianne soon lost interest. On Pan Am going north to Arica 1000km. Desert, desert etc and got to Antofogasta in 5 hours, half way. We managed to sit in the front of the bus bewtween Calama and San Pedsro, about 90 minutes. Arrived SP in 10 hours 30 minutes.
San Pedro is a desert tourist village with hostels, hotels, tour operators, restaurants, internet cafes, dirt roads and millions of tourists. I had a monster head ache which could be the change in altitude and we both had motion sickness. San Pedro is 2300 metres above sea level. We booked into a Residential which we had recommended to us by a traveller we had spoken with in La Serena. We had a three bed room for the price of two. Can´t be bad. Only milk to be found, full cream. Only bread to be found, white.
Tuesday 12 October
Not planning to do a lot today and will try to get acclimatised before we take trips up to the altiplano at up to 4500 metres. Not cold overnight and we wandered round trying to find our feet (they were attached to our legs of course, don´t laugh , it will only encourage him) . Visited the church (notable for the use of cactus wood throughout) and the history of Atacama museum. This was excellent. Found a decent Internet cafe and tried to hook the camera up so that we could put pictures on the blog. Not a prayer. Photos will have to wait until we get to back to Cordoba, November 19th ish. Also we think this camera is crap so we will buy another one when we next get to a town of any size. Not many Brazilians here but loads of French, German, Dutch tourists.
We have to be careful in the restaurants as the bill can get quite large, quite quickly especially with a glass of average "tinto" @ GBP3. Beautiful sunset. Booked for Valle de la Luna tomorrow and Flamingoes and Lakes and Altiplano on Thursday and Geysers on Friday.
Wednesday 13th October
Decided to go directly to Arica on the overnight bus on Friday night and booked a hostel. Bus arrives 05.30 Saturday. We said we would be arriving at hostel 06.00. Only time will tell what will happen when we arrive. Bought some steak, tomatoes and onions for dinner to be washed down with some Errazuriz Cab Sauv 2009 at about GBP3.
Went on the Valley of the Moon trip at 16.00 and first went to Death Valley where lots of people were sandboarding. Cedd has done this he says! Next a cave system which involved crawling on all 4´s and finally a nice uphill walk on heavy sand for 20 minutes to get to the top of the ridge to see the sunset. Lots of people. There was a spectacular sunset when the mountains and volcanoes looking to the west turned red.
We got back at 20.30 for dinner and at 22.00 the church bells rang out and this coincided with an air raid siren ( we found out later it was the fire department) both making a fearful racket. It transpired that the last miner had been rescued and this was the cue for the noise.
Thursday 14th October
Up at 06.00 for the trip and it was bloody cold. The minibus went directly to Laguna Chaxa where we saw the sun rise over the salt lakes and lots of flamingoes. A super spectacle but freezing cold. There was still ice on the lakes. The air was fantastically clear. Our guide, who had lived for 3 years in Richmond, Surrey , had the breakfast. Hot coffee with ham and cheese and rolls and biscuits. This is in the Saltar de Atacama the third largest salt lake in the world.
On the the village of Socaire @2700 metres and the only reason this village exists is because it has a river flowing through it. We had to walk for 15 minutes because we were now going up to the altiplano at 4500metres+. On the way up we came across a fox and the little tinkerbell just sat there looking at the minibus and posing for photos (or so it seemed).
Up and up to the volcanic lakes at Miscanti and Miñiques. At this point we were only a few kilometres from the crossing into Argentina at 4600 metres. Although the lakes were blue, blue, blue and the sun was shining it was still quite chilly. Then we saw a herd of Vicuña and they probably liked it there because of the water.
I was quite light headed although the walking was ok and on the way back down there were three trucks headed for Salta. At the unremarkable pueblo of Tocono we were invited into a little old lady´s shop. Native handicrafts etc but at the back she had 2 llamas and two very woolly sheep. We bought a miniature llama for Ianne´s shelf. Warmest day so far.
Got back at 13.00 and I got the written blog up to date. Tomorrow we have to be up at 03.30 for a 04.00 pickup and we have been told to expect temperatures of between -10 and -20. Full load of thermal underwear and complete "North Face" protection required. We both bought woolly hats and woolly gloves. Did not expect this until Patagonia!
Apart from a propensity to turn the electric (and the water to the toilet) off at 21.00 the hostel is very good.
Chilean joke. The guide told me that he and the driver had Argentian blood. He then pointed to his knuckles and the front of the minibus!!!!
Spent 2 hours 15 minutes in the Internet cafe getting the blog up to date.The man said the bill should be CLP2000 but where was mummy from. Denmark. Then the bill would only be CLP1000 because his grandfather was Danish and his name was Petersen. We have had lots of discounts for being old but have never had a Nationality discount before.
Friday 15th October
Up at the unchristly hour of 03.30 ready for the 04.00-04.30 pick up for the El Tatioo Geyser Tour. At 4.35 the minibus arrived much to our relief. Ianne was wearing a swimming costume, knickers, thermal trousers and vest, 3 T shirts, 1 long sleeved T-shirt, cardigan, fleece, ski jacket (with hood up) plus new woolly hat, gloves and scarf (non-itchy)
After a call of nature we went to the geyser fields where, at 10 minutes to sun up, the temperature was -14C and bloody freezing cold. At first sun up people actually shed all of their togs and waded into the thermal pool. There must have been 20 or so people bathing. Dear reader, I will let you decide whether either Jack or Marianne bathed.
Back to the minibus for coffee, cheese sandwiches and biscuits. We were both as cold as frozen turds. We were at 4500 metres altitude so that could explain something. Despite the early start the geysers are pretty amazing and once inside the bus we began to thaw out.
Next stop was a bridge over the river Putana ( yes that is the correct name) which emanates from the volcano of the same name. Lots of nice birds and ice in the river at 4200 metres asl.
Onwards to the village of Machua population 8, where we had fresh cooked empanadas (delicious) , llama kebabs (pinchitos) and a cup of tea with herbs supposed to reduce altitude sickness. I was a little light headed but not really surprising given the heights.
Going back we saw a small herd of llamas feeding in the river, all llamas being domestic animals. Then on the way to cactus valley we saw our first heard of guanacos. Cactus valley is nice with a river running through that eventually irrigates San Pedro. Lots of very large cactii whose name escapes me but all are protected species.
Got back about 12, packed and put the cases into Hostel storage for our departure this evening. Had a light lunch and endeavoured (and succeeded) in bringing this blog up to date. Whew!
Weather here 25-30C Sunny and hot.
Thursday 14 October 2010
Chañaral
Saturday 9th October
On the bus on the Pan Am highway going north. Good views of the Ocean with poor hamlets. Once up in the highlands and away from the coast it is sunny and warm and semi desert. Sparse clumps of vegetation and past Vallenar and we are almost in desert with just the odd scrub. Ianne says we are extremely smelly. Nice shower will take place with ensuite capabilities. Arrived Chañaral an hour late, trip time 9 hours. As per standard got ripped off by the taxi driver with a CLP1500 fare for 800 metres.
Went out for dinner to a little restaurant and the only two occupants were a father and son from Denmark. The owner had been in Norway so spoke some Norwegian and some English. Restaurant bill for two lomos (beef) 2 beers and a tea was expensive at CLP16500.
Sunday 10th October
4 weekends away from Tavizna. Woke up and had a nice shower..no more smelling bad. Went for breakfast but didn´t realise that 1. We had not booked for breakfast and 2. The clocks had gone forward in the night...No problem..bring on the breakfast.
Weather cloudy and a strong breeze. Chilean flags everywhere. I am not sure what it represents..National Pride? Insecurity? Perhaps readers of this blog could provide enlightenment? Took a walk down the sea. Fantastic white beach but heavily polluted. This is our first "mining and desert" town with a huge backdrop of mountains. Also just found out that tomorrow is a National Holiday in Chile. Tele says that miners come up on Wednesday.
Sitting in a cafe we have been found by a "tourist guide" who is going to take us to the Pan de Azucar, 28kms north. Drive up to the path to the mirador, walk up the path 3 kms then fantastic view over sea. Then walk along the cliff top 7 kms to the fishing vllage where we could get a boat to Pan de Azucar Island then get a nice dinner before he picked us up at 19.30.
The walk up was fine and the view very very nice. Met a Parque guide who said it was forbidden to walk along the path top and she knew the "tourist guide" in person and would talk to him. We started to walk back to the village 7kms and got a lift with a young Chilean couple. Got to the village. No boats to the island and all of the restauants were closed. Waited 90 minutes for "tourist guide" who said it was not his fault that there were no boats or that the restaurants were closed. He could not comment about there being no path back to the village. We negotiated a discount for the trip. I plan to report him to CONAF, the Government agency, and the town hall and the taxi association. We have his name and car number. That sort of sh** gives Chile a bad name. He wanted all of his money "up front". We said old, yes, stupid , no..you get your money back at the hostel. That was a smart move.
Apparently the last time it rained in Chañaral (this March) it was the first rain in 4 years. All roads etc washed away and schools closed for 3/4 days. Chañaral could be a beach resort like La Serena if they could clear the sulphate de cobre pollution as the bay is large and the beach wide. As it is, mining and derivatives are the only bread winners.
Next San Pedro de Atacama...
On the bus on the Pan Am highway going north. Good views of the Ocean with poor hamlets. Once up in the highlands and away from the coast it is sunny and warm and semi desert. Sparse clumps of vegetation and past Vallenar and we are almost in desert with just the odd scrub. Ianne says we are extremely smelly. Nice shower will take place with ensuite capabilities. Arrived Chañaral an hour late, trip time 9 hours. As per standard got ripped off by the taxi driver with a CLP1500 fare for 800 metres.
Went out for dinner to a little restaurant and the only two occupants were a father and son from Denmark. The owner had been in Norway so spoke some Norwegian and some English. Restaurant bill for two lomos (beef) 2 beers and a tea was expensive at CLP16500.
Sunday 10th October
4 weekends away from Tavizna. Woke up and had a nice shower..no more smelling bad. Went for breakfast but didn´t realise that 1. We had not booked for breakfast and 2. The clocks had gone forward in the night...No problem..bring on the breakfast.
Weather cloudy and a strong breeze. Chilean flags everywhere. I am not sure what it represents..National Pride? Insecurity? Perhaps readers of this blog could provide enlightenment? Took a walk down the sea. Fantastic white beach but heavily polluted. This is our first "mining and desert" town with a huge backdrop of mountains. Also just found out that tomorrow is a National Holiday in Chile. Tele says that miners come up on Wednesday.
Sitting in a cafe we have been found by a "tourist guide" who is going to take us to the Pan de Azucar, 28kms north. Drive up to the path to the mirador, walk up the path 3 kms then fantastic view over sea. Then walk along the cliff top 7 kms to the fishing vllage where we could get a boat to Pan de Azucar Island then get a nice dinner before he picked us up at 19.30.
The walk up was fine and the view very very nice. Met a Parque guide who said it was forbidden to walk along the path top and she knew the "tourist guide" in person and would talk to him. We started to walk back to the village 7kms and got a lift with a young Chilean couple. Got to the village. No boats to the island and all of the restauants were closed. Waited 90 minutes for "tourist guide" who said it was not his fault that there were no boats or that the restaurants were closed. He could not comment about there being no path back to the village. We negotiated a discount for the trip. I plan to report him to CONAF, the Government agency, and the town hall and the taxi association. We have his name and car number. That sort of sh** gives Chile a bad name. He wanted all of his money "up front". We said old, yes, stupid , no..you get your money back at the hostel. That was a smart move.
Apparently the last time it rained in Chañaral (this March) it was the first rain in 4 years. All roads etc washed away and schools closed for 3/4 days. Chañaral could be a beach resort like La Serena if they could clear the sulphate de cobre pollution as the bay is large and the beach wide. As it is, mining and derivatives are the only bread winners.
Next San Pedro de Atacama...
La Serena
Tuesday 5th October
No food on the bus. The landscape got drier and drier as we went north on route 5, Pan American Highway. On the way up we saw a beer lorry overturned with cans of Cristal lager all over the road. Despite the best endeavours of all the passengers the bus refused to stop! We arrived at 20.00 at La Serena , a trip of some 7 hours.
Aji Verde (Green chilli) was our first hostel and let me reassure you that it IS NOT upmarket. The bunk beds were not expected and sharing bathrooms was a very new experience. Still this is a budget trip so needs must as the devil drives. Loads of Brazilians staying here. The hostel is part of the YHA Network so we got a 15% discount. Just heard from Hanne. She got home safely but a word of warning. Do not use El Rapido buses and I quote " a horrible bus smelling of pi**".
Wednesday 6th October
We are now seasoned travellers and hostellers and talked to everybody at breakfast. We have booked the Elqui Valley and Observatory tour for tomorrow. Wandered around La Serena and down to the lighthouse and along the front. Lots of new hotels going up. I cooked dinner, chili con carne with rice. The other hostellers thought it was good too as there was far too much cooked. Being naturally modest I told them that my lasagne was even better! Blue skies and sun 19/20 C
Thursday 7th October
For whatever reason we were not booked on the tour to the Elqui Valley (cock up on the hostel front!) but we managed to get on another tour and will try to meet up with the original tour for the observatory later. On the way had Chilean papaya which bears no resemblance to a Malaysian papaya. It is like a small green lemon and tastes as bad! We found out afterwards that we should have boiled it first! It seems we are going to a Pisco distillery and will get some freebie Mango Sour. Having phoned the Hostel (who were phoning the travel agent) it seems we are now to meet with the Nomadic Tour but will have to wait for the where and when, which turned out to be the Plaza de Armas in Vicuña ( a one horse pueblo where the horse left years ago).
We went into the Elqui Valley (green, green, green) and to a pisco distillery near Mannallucco, site of the observatory. Results of the tasting afterwards. Normal Pisco, totally disgusting and worse than sleepinaditch (slivovica) but just better than 8 year old unrinsed sock washing water. The 3 year old was a little smoother but nobody in their right mind would go beyond the foot of their stairs for it! In the shop we were served a mango sour. Now we are talking "hit me with loads of it". Seems that you have to put lemon, mango or even banana in with the Piso to get an acceptable drink..
We went further into the Elqui Valley for lunch. Every square inch is cultivated. Because of the dam they now get very strong winds so there is masses of protective sheeting everywhere to protect the crops. Not a nice sight.
Having been to the town of Nobel Winner Gabriella Mistral (the name of the town escapes me) we headed back to Vicuña. The will to live having been lost with the conversations with the hostel reference observatory, it transpired that if we cared to wait in Vicuña for 5 hours we could go on the tour. We declined with what I thought was remarkable restraint. However the hostel could confirm (after two phone calls from our guide) that we were booked on the tour to Parque Nacional Fray Jorge the next day!
Weather hot in Elqui 27/28C. Camera stopped working!
Friday 8th October
We were picked up at 08.30 and after 90 minutes south in a 7/8 seater Honda touring car, featuring automatic and cruise control. From the highway it is 23km on a dirt road to the Parque Nacional. We walked 4 km uphill and into the wind and it took 1 hour. Then 3 kms round the top and 4 km down again. Heroes medals were sought and awarded. The Parque is amazing. The wind rises off the sea and hits a 500 metre ridge where mist forms for 220 days in the year. As a result you have a forest in the desert. One of the party, a Chilean, had spent 9 years in Sweden so we talked to him in Danish.
Next to the Valle del Encanto a prehstoric site with loads of Petroglifs . Back to La Serena and treated ourselves to an Italian Dinner ( in recognition of the sterling work done earlier).
We and the hostel tried to book a hostel in Copiapo but to no avail. This is a big place but even HostelWorld could not offer anything, so we decided to go to Chañaral instead.
No food on the bus. The landscape got drier and drier as we went north on route 5, Pan American Highway. On the way up we saw a beer lorry overturned with cans of Cristal lager all over the road. Despite the best endeavours of all the passengers the bus refused to stop! We arrived at 20.00 at La Serena , a trip of some 7 hours.
Aji Verde (Green chilli) was our first hostel and let me reassure you that it IS NOT upmarket. The bunk beds were not expected and sharing bathrooms was a very new experience. Still this is a budget trip so needs must as the devil drives. Loads of Brazilians staying here. The hostel is part of the YHA Network so we got a 15% discount. Just heard from Hanne. She got home safely but a word of warning. Do not use El Rapido buses and I quote " a horrible bus smelling of pi**".
Wednesday 6th October
We are now seasoned travellers and hostellers and talked to everybody at breakfast. We have booked the Elqui Valley and Observatory tour for tomorrow. Wandered around La Serena and down to the lighthouse and along the front. Lots of new hotels going up. I cooked dinner, chili con carne with rice. The other hostellers thought it was good too as there was far too much cooked. Being naturally modest I told them that my lasagne was even better! Blue skies and sun 19/20 C
Thursday 7th October
For whatever reason we were not booked on the tour to the Elqui Valley (cock up on the hostel front!) but we managed to get on another tour and will try to meet up with the original tour for the observatory later. On the way had Chilean papaya which bears no resemblance to a Malaysian papaya. It is like a small green lemon and tastes as bad! We found out afterwards that we should have boiled it first! It seems we are going to a Pisco distillery and will get some freebie Mango Sour. Having phoned the Hostel (who were phoning the travel agent) it seems we are now to meet with the Nomadic Tour but will have to wait for the where and when, which turned out to be the Plaza de Armas in Vicuña ( a one horse pueblo where the horse left years ago).
We went into the Elqui Valley (green, green, green) and to a pisco distillery near Mannallucco, site of the observatory. Results of the tasting afterwards. Normal Pisco, totally disgusting and worse than sleepinaditch (slivovica) but just better than 8 year old unrinsed sock washing water. The 3 year old was a little smoother but nobody in their right mind would go beyond the foot of their stairs for it! In the shop we were served a mango sour. Now we are talking "hit me with loads of it". Seems that you have to put lemon, mango or even banana in with the Piso to get an acceptable drink..
We went further into the Elqui Valley for lunch. Every square inch is cultivated. Because of the dam they now get very strong winds so there is masses of protective sheeting everywhere to protect the crops. Not a nice sight.
Having been to the town of Nobel Winner Gabriella Mistral (the name of the town escapes me) we headed back to Vicuña. The will to live having been lost with the conversations with the hostel reference observatory, it transpired that if we cared to wait in Vicuña for 5 hours we could go on the tour. We declined with what I thought was remarkable restraint. However the hostel could confirm (after two phone calls from our guide) that we were booked on the tour to Parque Nacional Fray Jorge the next day!
Weather hot in Elqui 27/28C. Camera stopped working!
Friday 8th October
We were picked up at 08.30 and after 90 minutes south in a 7/8 seater Honda touring car, featuring automatic and cruise control. From the highway it is 23km on a dirt road to the Parque Nacional. We walked 4 km uphill and into the wind and it took 1 hour. Then 3 kms round the top and 4 km down again. Heroes medals were sought and awarded. The Parque is amazing. The wind rises off the sea and hits a 500 metre ridge where mist forms for 220 days in the year. As a result you have a forest in the desert. One of the party, a Chilean, had spent 9 years in Sweden so we talked to him in Danish.
Next to the Valle del Encanto a prehstoric site with loads of Petroglifs . Back to La Serena and treated ourselves to an Italian Dinner ( in recognition of the sterling work done earlier).
We and the hostel tried to book a hostel in Copiapo but to no avail. This is a big place but even HostelWorld could not offer anything, so we decided to go to Chañaral instead.
Tuesday 12 October 2010
Santiago de Chile y Valparaiso
Thursday 30th and Friday 1st October. (Travellers JC, MC and HC)
The bus was due to leave Cordoba at 22.00. We were told to come back at 02.00 so went for a nice dinner. Back to bus station and bus left eventually at 03.30. For the mathematician this represents a delay of 5 1/2 hours. The scheduled time of arrival at Santiago de Chile was 13.45 on Friday 1st October. Actually arrived at 21.00. I will let the clever readers work out how late this is! It took 3 hours of nothing happening to cross into Chile at the Paseo del Libertadores (altitude 3150 metres with snow on ground and brass monkeys present). It transpires that this bus starts at Rio de Janeiro in Brazil and is the only one to go directly to Santiago, all others start at Mendoza. It is probably the one that Lise and Chad took (also delayed by 8 hours) so perhaps we should have known better. We had a quick hamburger at a semi-greasy spoon in Santiago and slept very well.
Saturday 2nd October
Hotel Paris was the recommendation of Steffen and it is in a good location. There was some reference to the lady owner offering rooms "by the hour" but we could not find evidence of this. Took breakfast at 09.55, latest 10.00 and got tutted at by the maid! Walked down to Plaza de las Armas, very nice and went into the Cathedral (vast). MC and HC went into the Chile before Columbus museum and apparently it was excellent. I people watched in the square. We purchased two mobile phones (1 each for MC and HC) but could not get them to work.
Had lunch at the Central Market again at the recommendation of SJC. Marvellous. I had lenguado (so no surprise there) and Marianne had marisco soup (see HC´s pictures) and, just for a change, HC had an enormous salmon. The aji pebre freebie was delicious. We ate it all so they gave us more. Had cerveza de Patagonia. To say it was average would be kind. Strong recommendation for anyone to visit this place.
Went to Santa Lucia hill with views of the mountains with snow on. Weather sunny 22/23.
Sunday 3rd October
Took the Pullman bus to Valparaiso 1 hour 20 minutes. Sunny leaving Santiago then went through a long tunnel and came out in murk with a temperature drop of 8C. The area around bus station of Valparaiso is double dodgy and on the other side of the bay to the harbour and "attractive views".
Walked around the bay to the port which was offering tours for either CLP15000 on your own boat or CLP1500 on a "collectivo". We took the "collectivo". Excellent tour around the port with large container ships and lots of Chile Navy warships. Strongly recommend the tour. Then took the Concepcion funicular up and took lunch, coffee and sandwiches at a museum dedicated to a famous Chilean caricaturist, the name of whom escapes me.
Food is much more expensive than in Argentina and trying to find a proper coffee, not Nestcafe, is almost impossible. Wandered around for a bit but Valparaiso could not be seen at its best (if it has one) due to cloud and general darkness. Lots of poverty, homelessness and stray dogs. Took afternoon tea at a nice coffee shop and I had my first Pisco Sour. Absolutely delicious but I would not have a second one for fear of leglessness.
We took the "Metro" 6 stops along the bay back to the bus terminus. We had return tickets and tried to board a bus only to be told to go to the Pullman office and get a bus number and time. To say that the crowd at the Pullman counter represented a rugby scrum would be a misrepresentation of the smelly, heaving mob. Push, shove, try not to get mugged etc. Not nice! After what seemed an eternity but was probably only 30 minutes in the line we got a bus time of 22.30. The time at that point was 19.30. Three hours to kill.
Dinner was required but as previously mentioned the area around the bus station is double dodgy, especially in the dark, so we went round the corner and found somewhere a little better. After chicken and chips and some beers lasting 2 1/2 hours we went back to the bus station. On the way a local ne´erdowell tried to get into my rucksack from behind but after a very loud "Oiiiiiiiiii" from Hanne he went on his way. We arrived back at the station and after half an hour (see blog photo of layabouts sitting on steps) there was the bus.
Incredibly Pullman Bus alone had a bus leaving Valparaiso for Santiago every 2/3 minutes. Got back at midnight and had to take a taxi because the Metro stops at 22.30.
Marianne says Valparaiso totally came up to her expectations and she is very happy having been there now!
Monday 4th October 16C
Went to Claro Help Shop (Phone Network Provider) and after standing in line for 1 hour was told that all that was required was unblocking. Went to Plaza de Armas to the unblocking shop and half an hour later two phones were unblocked at a cost of under GBP 5. We needed to purchase various cables and plugs for the recharging equipment because plugs are different in Argentina and Chile. Universal Latin America plugs? You are having a giraffe my friend. Lunch time found us at Agustins Restaurant, a help yourself place. Excellent choice and value e.g. huge salad, lomo (beef) and chips, glass of tinto and a coffee with a chupito of Brandy under GBP 5. The prices in this blog are provided for comparison purposes only the rates at the time of writing GBP=CLP716. GBP=1.15EUR ( for "Foreign" readers)
HC needed a sleep so the padres went to Parque Metropolitano where a huge statue of the Virgin Mary is and went up by funicular. Views should have been good but it was very misty. Took the Metro back in the rush hour. BIG MISTAKE! Bloody sardines have masses of room compared to us and we got back to find HC still asleep.
Last night for HC so we went to Italian on the main drag. The main drag is Avenida Liberator Bernado O´ Higgins, which is far too much of a mouthful for the locals who call it Almeda. Two courses, bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, puddings and a coffee for GBP10 per person. Interesting that only a signature was required with a chip and pin credit card.
Tuesday 5th October.
Checked out of hotel Paris. Hanne is taking the bus at 13.00 to Mendoza and then back to Santiago and we are taking the 13.30 to La Serena. We went to Constitucion Square then took the Metro to Central Station. Again packed like sardines.
Saw HC off then walked back to our terminal (1 Metro Station back).
No food on the bus, 8 hours to La Serena
The bus was due to leave Cordoba at 22.00. We were told to come back at 02.00 so went for a nice dinner. Back to bus station and bus left eventually at 03.30. For the mathematician this represents a delay of 5 1/2 hours. The scheduled time of arrival at Santiago de Chile was 13.45 on Friday 1st October. Actually arrived at 21.00. I will let the clever readers work out how late this is! It took 3 hours of nothing happening to cross into Chile at the Paseo del Libertadores (altitude 3150 metres with snow on ground and brass monkeys present). It transpires that this bus starts at Rio de Janeiro in Brazil and is the only one to go directly to Santiago, all others start at Mendoza. It is probably the one that Lise and Chad took (also delayed by 8 hours) so perhaps we should have known better. We had a quick hamburger at a semi-greasy spoon in Santiago and slept very well.
Saturday 2nd October
Hotel Paris was the recommendation of Steffen and it is in a good location. There was some reference to the lady owner offering rooms "by the hour" but we could not find evidence of this. Took breakfast at 09.55, latest 10.00 and got tutted at by the maid! Walked down to Plaza de las Armas, very nice and went into the Cathedral (vast). MC and HC went into the Chile before Columbus museum and apparently it was excellent. I people watched in the square. We purchased two mobile phones (1 each for MC and HC) but could not get them to work.
Had lunch at the Central Market again at the recommendation of SJC. Marvellous. I had lenguado (so no surprise there) and Marianne had marisco soup (see HC´s pictures) and, just for a change, HC had an enormous salmon. The aji pebre freebie was delicious. We ate it all so they gave us more. Had cerveza de Patagonia. To say it was average would be kind. Strong recommendation for anyone to visit this place.
Went to Santa Lucia hill with views of the mountains with snow on. Weather sunny 22/23.
Sunday 3rd October
Took the Pullman bus to Valparaiso 1 hour 20 minutes. Sunny leaving Santiago then went through a long tunnel and came out in murk with a temperature drop of 8C. The area around bus station of Valparaiso is double dodgy and on the other side of the bay to the harbour and "attractive views".
Walked around the bay to the port which was offering tours for either CLP15000 on your own boat or CLP1500 on a "collectivo". We took the "collectivo". Excellent tour around the port with large container ships and lots of Chile Navy warships. Strongly recommend the tour. Then took the Concepcion funicular up and took lunch, coffee and sandwiches at a museum dedicated to a famous Chilean caricaturist, the name of whom escapes me.
Food is much more expensive than in Argentina and trying to find a proper coffee, not Nestcafe, is almost impossible. Wandered around for a bit but Valparaiso could not be seen at its best (if it has one) due to cloud and general darkness. Lots of poverty, homelessness and stray dogs. Took afternoon tea at a nice coffee shop and I had my first Pisco Sour. Absolutely delicious but I would not have a second one for fear of leglessness.
We took the "Metro" 6 stops along the bay back to the bus terminus. We had return tickets and tried to board a bus only to be told to go to the Pullman office and get a bus number and time. To say that the crowd at the Pullman counter represented a rugby scrum would be a misrepresentation of the smelly, heaving mob. Push, shove, try not to get mugged etc. Not nice! After what seemed an eternity but was probably only 30 minutes in the line we got a bus time of 22.30. The time at that point was 19.30. Three hours to kill.
Dinner was required but as previously mentioned the area around the bus station is double dodgy, especially in the dark, so we went round the corner and found somewhere a little better. After chicken and chips and some beers lasting 2 1/2 hours we went back to the bus station. On the way a local ne´erdowell tried to get into my rucksack from behind but after a very loud "Oiiiiiiiiii" from Hanne he went on his way. We arrived back at the station and after half an hour (see blog photo of layabouts sitting on steps) there was the bus.
Incredibly Pullman Bus alone had a bus leaving Valparaiso for Santiago every 2/3 minutes. Got back at midnight and had to take a taxi because the Metro stops at 22.30.
Marianne says Valparaiso totally came up to her expectations and she is very happy having been there now!
Monday 4th October 16C
Went to Claro Help Shop (Phone Network Provider) and after standing in line for 1 hour was told that all that was required was unblocking. Went to Plaza de Armas to the unblocking shop and half an hour later two phones were unblocked at a cost of under GBP 5. We needed to purchase various cables and plugs for the recharging equipment because plugs are different in Argentina and Chile. Universal Latin America plugs? You are having a giraffe my friend. Lunch time found us at Agustins Restaurant, a help yourself place. Excellent choice and value e.g. huge salad, lomo (beef) and chips, glass of tinto and a coffee with a chupito of Brandy under GBP 5. The prices in this blog are provided for comparison purposes only the rates at the time of writing GBP=CLP716. GBP=1.15EUR ( for "Foreign" readers)
HC needed a sleep so the padres went to Parque Metropolitano where a huge statue of the Virgin Mary is and went up by funicular. Views should have been good but it was very misty. Took the Metro back in the rush hour. BIG MISTAKE! Bloody sardines have masses of room compared to us and we got back to find HC still asleep.
Last night for HC so we went to Italian on the main drag. The main drag is Avenida Liberator Bernado O´ Higgins, which is far too much of a mouthful for the locals who call it Almeda. Two courses, bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, puddings and a coffee for GBP10 per person. Interesting that only a signature was required with a chip and pin credit card.
Tuesday 5th October.
Checked out of hotel Paris. Hanne is taking the bus at 13.00 to Mendoza and then back to Santiago and we are taking the 13.30 to La Serena. We went to Constitucion Square then took the Metro to Central Station. Again packed like sardines.
Saw HC off then walked back to our terminal (1 Metro Station back).
No food on the bus, 8 hours to La Serena
Thursday 7 October 2010
The first week in Chile (by Hanne)
Mum and Dad in Plaza de las Armas (main square) in Santiago de Chile
Lunch at the fish market- this is Mum´s seafood soup. I think I identified about 5 of the 20 types of tentacled things in it...
View of the hills in Valparaiso (Mum insisted we go there to see the colourful houses in the hills so please note the nice colours..)
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