Thursday 13th January 2011.
It was absolutely peeing down overnight and the hostel and surrounding streets had no power but I managed to make some coffee and tea: Chile is no exception to the norm when it comes to wanting a taxi in the rain and a twenty minute wait was forecast, so the dynamic duo donned full waterproofs (first time on tour except Potosi, but that was for the cold) and walked 15 minutes up hill to the bus station in the pouring rain. On reaching the destination , heroes medals were awarded. A new bus company Tas-Choapa (Chilean) had been booked. Estimated time of arrival Bariloche 14.15. At 30km from Bariloche, 15.05 the bus broke down and we were told that another bus would be with us in 30 minutes. Yeh! Right. Bloody shades of Bolivia here, matey, but being intrepid we just stayed put and after 65 minutes the replacement bus arrived. The border crossing here is stunning with beautiful mountains, lakes and valleys and the largest no mans land you could ever imagine. We arrived at "The House" hostel in Bariloche at 18.00. What a dump. Everything has been done on the cheap. Toilet seats broken, wood not treated, dirty, no locks on some shower doors, carpets badly needed cleaning etc etc. The people however were very welcoming as was the house dog, a huge St. Bernard called "Shack" who was a very big softy.
On Linda and Mal´s recommendation, by email, we went to a Mexican restaurant for dinner. It was very nice especially as the Cuenta did not include ARS24 for a large bottle of Heineken. Fist impressions of Bariloche, in the warm sunshine, are; millions of tourists, restaurants and hotels, hostels and a stunning location on a very blue lake with mountains in the distance.
Coming next ...Esquel..
Tuesday 18 January 2011
Chiloe, Puerto Montt, Puerto Varas
Wednesday 12th January 2011
We took the 11 am bus to Puerto Montt with the intention of connecting to Bariloche where we had booked a hostel for 1 night. Ah! Buses to Bariloche leave at 8.15 and the time was now 13.30. Were we up sh·· creek without a paddle? Not at all, we bought a bus ticket from Puerto Varas to Bariloche the next day and jumped on a collectivo to Puerto Varas, time 30 minutes. Via the tourist information we found a hostel for the night and changed our hostel in Bariloche without charge. Puerto Varas is very nice, on a lake with two huge volcanoes in the distance, very touristy and very expensive! The place has a huge German influence regarding beer type, restaurants, street names and hotels. The lasagne price test was applied and Puerto Varas was not found wanting. Yes, a new record of ars pesos 54 or GBP9. Well done Puerto Varas! We took some dinner at a cafe that was also a chocolateria but only had food, no choccies. It was the best hamburger that I have had in the whole of S America so far and amazingly the beer prices were 40% less than the pizzeria at lunchtime. Funny old game!
We took the 11 am bus to Puerto Montt with the intention of connecting to Bariloche where we had booked a hostel for 1 night. Ah! Buses to Bariloche leave at 8.15 and the time was now 13.30. Were we up sh·· creek without a paddle? Not at all, we bought a bus ticket from Puerto Varas to Bariloche the next day and jumped on a collectivo to Puerto Varas, time 30 minutes. Via the tourist information we found a hostel for the night and changed our hostel in Bariloche without charge. Puerto Varas is very nice, on a lake with two huge volcanoes in the distance, very touristy and very expensive! The place has a huge German influence regarding beer type, restaurants, street names and hotels. The lasagne price test was applied and Puerto Varas was not found wanting. Yes, a new record of ars pesos 54 or GBP9. Well done Puerto Varas! We took some dinner at a cafe that was also a chocolateria but only had food, no choccies. It was the best hamburger that I have had in the whole of S America so far and amazingly the beer prices were 40% less than the pizzeria at lunchtime. Funny old game!
Monday 17 January 2011
Chiloe
Friday 7th January 2011 -Wednesday 12th January 2011
Having viewed Puerto Montt at dawn we caught the 08.45 Queilan Bus (another first) to Ancud on the island of Chiloe. Altogether there were 15 people standing on the bus. Health and Safety? The bus went on the ferry ( 25 mins) and soon we were at Ancud. First impressions in the sunshine were green, greeen with luxurious vegetation. We took a taxi to the hostel Mundo Nuevo , very nice and run by a Swiss guy. As you would expect from that, the German Language was favourite here! I managed to negotiate a 10% discount on the first two nights and pay full price on Thursday when we came back. It is a nice hostel and comes highly recommended by us. We decided to hire a car to explore the island for 4 days and were pleasantly surprised to pay only Eur 40 per day.
We picked up the car the next day and have it until Wednesday at 10.00. We drove west from Ancud and saw the people gathering a seaweed like substance which apparently becomes agar agar. Two bullocks were in the sea attached to a cart pulling out this agar agar. Round the bay to Fuente Ahui the last Spanish fortress in Chile with a few cannons still intact. We followed on to Punta Corona and were cordially received by the lighthouse keeper and shown round. A picnic lunch followed and we moved the car just before the tide came in. Round to penguin island and coffee but didn´t take the trip because it would have meant waiting 90 minutes and we have seen lots of the little black and white buggers on this trip. It is a beautiful unspoilt coastline and we hear from our host at the hostel that it is planned to put up to 3000 windmills there! In the evening we drove east and around the coast to Caulin, Huiche and back Again unspoilt coastline. I cooked chili for dinner.
On Sunday we drove the dirt roads down the east coast on the Wooden Church trail. This is World Heritage Country for the wooden churches. Quenchi, Aucur, Quicavi and Telaun churches were all visited. We picked up a hitchhiker from Telaun and took the ferry to the island of Quinchao and saw the church at Achao (most beautiful and locked) We went back on the ferry which goes ferry often (don´t laugh at him) to Castro . The hostel was dirty, smelly, lots of people and one bathroom with no cooking allowed. The hostess was very welcoming though! We went down to the waterfront and had mussel soup and salmon for dinner. Totally fresh, inexpensive and lovely. The walk back uphill to the hostel was hard!
On Monday in Castro we went to the wooden Cathedral where the Pope visited so they painted the building purple and yellow for the occasion. The museum was also very nice. We went down to the waterfront again to the fish market and took the trip around the bay to see the palafitos, houses on stilts. Following lunch in a palafito we went back to the car and off to the churches in Dalcahue,Rilan and Llao llao. Sunny and warm all day.
Tuesday found us going west on paved roads to the Parque Nacional at Cucao. The lakes of Hullinco and Cucao are really beautiful with forested banks. We walked around the Parque for a couple of hours . This would make a good place for trekking and camping with lots of good forest trails. On the way back we saw another bullock cart coming back down the road. We drove back via Castro to Ancud about 140 km. Sunny. Marianne ordered a loaf from the hostel which was delicious (integral) but it should have been so for Eur 5.
Wednesday we took the car back with no surcharge but lots of dirt and dust from the roads.
Summary of Chiloe
Wonderful, wonderful. Green with lush dense forest and hills. It certainly is a place for myths and legends. Castro is geared up for Spanish speaking tourism and is well worth a visit. The Nacional Park would make a good place for walking and camping.
Having viewed Puerto Montt at dawn we caught the 08.45 Queilan Bus (another first) to Ancud on the island of Chiloe. Altogether there were 15 people standing on the bus. Health and Safety? The bus went on the ferry ( 25 mins) and soon we were at Ancud. First impressions in the sunshine were green, greeen with luxurious vegetation. We took a taxi to the hostel Mundo Nuevo , very nice and run by a Swiss guy. As you would expect from that, the German Language was favourite here! I managed to negotiate a 10% discount on the first two nights and pay full price on Thursday when we came back. It is a nice hostel and comes highly recommended by us. We decided to hire a car to explore the island for 4 days and were pleasantly surprised to pay only Eur 40 per day.
We picked up the car the next day and have it until Wednesday at 10.00. We drove west from Ancud and saw the people gathering a seaweed like substance which apparently becomes agar agar. Two bullocks were in the sea attached to a cart pulling out this agar agar. Round the bay to Fuente Ahui the last Spanish fortress in Chile with a few cannons still intact. We followed on to Punta Corona and were cordially received by the lighthouse keeper and shown round. A picnic lunch followed and we moved the car just before the tide came in. Round to penguin island and coffee but didn´t take the trip because it would have meant waiting 90 minutes and we have seen lots of the little black and white buggers on this trip. It is a beautiful unspoilt coastline and we hear from our host at the hostel that it is planned to put up to 3000 windmills there! In the evening we drove east and around the coast to Caulin, Huiche and back Again unspoilt coastline. I cooked chili for dinner.
On Sunday we drove the dirt roads down the east coast on the Wooden Church trail. This is World Heritage Country for the wooden churches. Quenchi, Aucur, Quicavi and Telaun churches were all visited. We picked up a hitchhiker from Telaun and took the ferry to the island of Quinchao and saw the church at Achao (most beautiful and locked) We went back on the ferry which goes ferry often (don´t laugh at him) to Castro . The hostel was dirty, smelly, lots of people and one bathroom with no cooking allowed. The hostess was very welcoming though! We went down to the waterfront and had mussel soup and salmon for dinner. Totally fresh, inexpensive and lovely. The walk back uphill to the hostel was hard!
On Monday in Castro we went to the wooden Cathedral where the Pope visited so they painted the building purple and yellow for the occasion. The museum was also very nice. We went down to the waterfront again to the fish market and took the trip around the bay to see the palafitos, houses on stilts. Following lunch in a palafito we went back to the car and off to the churches in Dalcahue,Rilan and Llao llao. Sunny and warm all day.
Tuesday found us going west on paved roads to the Parque Nacional at Cucao. The lakes of Hullinco and Cucao are really beautiful with forested banks. We walked around the Parque for a couple of hours . This would make a good place for trekking and camping with lots of good forest trails. On the way back we saw another bullock cart coming back down the road. We drove back via Castro to Ancud about 140 km. Sunny. Marianne ordered a loaf from the hostel which was delicious (integral) but it should have been so for Eur 5.
Wednesday we took the car back with no surcharge but lots of dirt and dust from the roads.
Summary of Chiloe
Wonderful, wonderful. Green with lush dense forest and hills. It certainly is a place for myths and legends. Castro is geared up for Spanish speaking tourism and is well worth a visit. The Nacional Park would make a good place for walking and camping.
Navimag Ferry - Puerto Natales-Puerto Montt
Monday 3rd January 2011- Friday 7th January 2011
We caught the Bolivian standard Bus Sur , single decker from Rio Turbio to Puerto Natales at 10.30. The bus was probably antique. As we were only 20 passengers we went through both borders like a dose of salts (quickly) and after an early lunch and an Internet Cafe we checked our gear into the Navimag Offices on the quay side at Puerto Natales and wrapped the back packs and day packs in plastic bags, just in cases, to keep the rain out in transit from the offices to our cabin on the boat. The boat arrived 5 hours late but no explanation was given. We boarded at 22.00 and was shown to our AAA cabin ( the most expensive on the boat). Perhaps this is what it means to push the boat out!!!!!! All of the AAA members get a tour of the boat and we were shown our own dining room! Very posh! Did I mention that we got a 15% discount on the fare because we are pensioners!! The plastic bags were a little wet but everything else was dry. Cabins were fine.
On Tuesday the ferry got underway at 05.00 and we met our fellow passengers for breakfast. A Spaniard from Barcelona and his Venezuelan wife, a couple of Swiss Phd students who just booked the wrong price passage and an Australian chap and his wife. I did ask if he had heard the cricket scores and he said not. Lying Aussie.. Apparently we get complimentary wine for lunch and dinner (hic, hic). The Chilean fjords are just as I imagined not very wide with steep, forested sides. We sailed up to an incredible glacier with lots of photos taken. Weather intermittent drizzle and sun and boat very smooth and you don´t really know you are on a boat. A two hour siesta was enjoyed. For some reason we received a nice free bottle of tinto in the cabin. We went on to the bridge to check out the Captain and he was not found wanting. No steering wheel just adjustments to the autopilot. Although they have loads of SatNav etc they still plot the course using manual charts as well.
On Wednesday morning we were up at 06.15 for our trip to Puerto Eden. This is seriously remote and originally was used as a flying boat staging post. This must be a new contender for the "arse end of nowhere" location but this one is beautiful as well. Nothing big enough for the boat to tie up to so about 100 passengers went ashore in motor boats from the port. The people on the island are poor, poor, poor. There must have been six people selling home made trinkets, wooden carvings etc. All incredibly bad quality. Fishing seems to be the main activity and although they have electricity there is no sign of any fish processing plant. The Puerto is in Parque Nacional Bernado O ´Higgins so its pristine nature will be preserved. All walking in the Port is done on board walks. Probably 2 kms or so. After this the sun came out big time and we were where the captain earns his corn "The English Narrows". Quite narrow and where are the lifeboats? springs to mind. After a late lunch and a little siesta we came out of the fjords for the 12 hour sail on the Pacific Ocean. Fantastic with 3 albatrosses following the boat, a couple of dolphins and loads of petrels and cormorants. The sea was calm with no white caps but large swells so we rolled about a bit in the bunk and it was difficult to tell if you had had one too many or the boat was rocking. Possibly both, do I hear you say?
On Thursday the weather was beautiful with full sun. Now the channel is incredibly wide and good views of the Chilean Volcanoes. Would you believe that there is Bingo tonight followed by a Latin Fiesta Evening. The fellow AAA passengers were very impressed with my Bingo knowledge. Legs 11 etc. We were told that breakfast is 07.00 tomorrow and we leave the ship at 08.00.
Bingo was fun in that if you won a prize you had to do a little dance. A fair amount of vino had been consumed by a lot of the passengers so the dancing was good. The Latin evening was tame in comparison.
Friday morning..Stupid, bloody captain arrived at 05.00 two hours early!! What a cretino! We were all woken up the the lovely sound of the anchor being dropped.
Summary of the Evangelistas Ferry of Navimag. Although we paid a small fortune for the tickets (less pensioner discount of 15%) we believe it was worth it. The other classes all ate together in a "canteen" which was at best plastic. Apparently the food was fine and lots of it. We also had good weather. If it had been raining for 4 days , jumping of the boat would have been considered. If you want to take the trip, pay the money for AAA and pray for good weather. We had horses on our boat and no cows so there was no smell of cow shite as Malcolm and Linda, our new mates had, on their trip.
We caught the Bolivian standard Bus Sur , single decker from Rio Turbio to Puerto Natales at 10.30. The bus was probably antique. As we were only 20 passengers we went through both borders like a dose of salts (quickly) and after an early lunch and an Internet Cafe we checked our gear into the Navimag Offices on the quay side at Puerto Natales and wrapped the back packs and day packs in plastic bags, just in cases, to keep the rain out in transit from the offices to our cabin on the boat. The boat arrived 5 hours late but no explanation was given. We boarded at 22.00 and was shown to our AAA cabin ( the most expensive on the boat). Perhaps this is what it means to push the boat out!!!!!! All of the AAA members get a tour of the boat and we were shown our own dining room! Very posh! Did I mention that we got a 15% discount on the fare because we are pensioners!! The plastic bags were a little wet but everything else was dry. Cabins were fine.
On Tuesday the ferry got underway at 05.00 and we met our fellow passengers for breakfast. A Spaniard from Barcelona and his Venezuelan wife, a couple of Swiss Phd students who just booked the wrong price passage and an Australian chap and his wife. I did ask if he had heard the cricket scores and he said not. Lying Aussie.. Apparently we get complimentary wine for lunch and dinner (hic, hic). The Chilean fjords are just as I imagined not very wide with steep, forested sides. We sailed up to an incredible glacier with lots of photos taken. Weather intermittent drizzle and sun and boat very smooth and you don´t really know you are on a boat. A two hour siesta was enjoyed. For some reason we received a nice free bottle of tinto in the cabin. We went on to the bridge to check out the Captain and he was not found wanting. No steering wheel just adjustments to the autopilot. Although they have loads of SatNav etc they still plot the course using manual charts as well.
On Wednesday morning we were up at 06.15 for our trip to Puerto Eden. This is seriously remote and originally was used as a flying boat staging post. This must be a new contender for the "arse end of nowhere" location but this one is beautiful as well. Nothing big enough for the boat to tie up to so about 100 passengers went ashore in motor boats from the port. The people on the island are poor, poor, poor. There must have been six people selling home made trinkets, wooden carvings etc. All incredibly bad quality. Fishing seems to be the main activity and although they have electricity there is no sign of any fish processing plant. The Puerto is in Parque Nacional Bernado O ´Higgins so its pristine nature will be preserved. All walking in the Port is done on board walks. Probably 2 kms or so. After this the sun came out big time and we were where the captain earns his corn "The English Narrows". Quite narrow and where are the lifeboats? springs to mind. After a late lunch and a little siesta we came out of the fjords for the 12 hour sail on the Pacific Ocean. Fantastic with 3 albatrosses following the boat, a couple of dolphins and loads of petrels and cormorants. The sea was calm with no white caps but large swells so we rolled about a bit in the bunk and it was difficult to tell if you had had one too many or the boat was rocking. Possibly both, do I hear you say?
On Thursday the weather was beautiful with full sun. Now the channel is incredibly wide and good views of the Chilean Volcanoes. Would you believe that there is Bingo tonight followed by a Latin Fiesta Evening. The fellow AAA passengers were very impressed with my Bingo knowledge. Legs 11 etc. We were told that breakfast is 07.00 tomorrow and we leave the ship at 08.00.
Bingo was fun in that if you won a prize you had to do a little dance. A fair amount of vino had been consumed by a lot of the passengers so the dancing was good. The Latin evening was tame in comparison.
Friday morning..Stupid, bloody captain arrived at 05.00 two hours early!! What a cretino! We were all woken up the the lovely sound of the anchor being dropped.
Summary of the Evangelistas Ferry of Navimag. Although we paid a small fortune for the tickets (less pensioner discount of 15%) we believe it was worth it. The other classes all ate together in a "canteen" which was at best plastic. Apparently the food was fine and lots of it. We also had good weather. If it had been raining for 4 days , jumping of the boat would have been considered. If you want to take the trip, pay the money for AAA and pray for good weather. We had horses on our boat and no cows so there was no smell of cow shite as Malcolm and Linda, our new mates had, on their trip.
Rio Turbio (Even the Argentinos say "Where?"
Thursday 30th December 2010-Monday 3rd January 2011
We got the 12 noon bus from El Calafate and stopped at La Esperanza (half way across Argentina and very Estepa) and had some lunch and changed buses. The only accommodation to be found in Rio Turbio was the Hotel at ars250. Expensive for us but beggars can´t be choosers. We went through the town of 28th November ( stupid name, no?) and it had been described as pretty to us by the tourist office in Puerto Deseado. Another town to write down on your "do not visit list" . Put Rio Turbio down twice and underline it. 10,000 people and coal mining.
Next day Ianne had come out in large rashes again so we asked the hotel to get a doctor and 5 minutes later the ambulance arrived and whisked us off to hospital. After 4 hours on a drip and lots of cortisone injections Ianne was discharged and felt better. She was warned that the rashes may return and given a fairly strict diet. Incredibly, there was no charge for the ambulance and treatment.
As nothing is open New Year´s Evening and New Year´s Day we had our dinner at lunchtime and it was the best ( and most expensive) on the trip so far. Lots of beef! Both Lise and Hanne telephoned so we were happy.
On New Year´s Day everything closed but we could get breakfast at the hotel. We went for a walk to one of the hills that overlook the town and had a stunning view of the snow capped Chile mountains. It was overcast and not to hot which was good because Ianne had been told to keep out of the sun. We had corned beef sandwiches for lunch and tuna sandwiches for dinner, watched 3 films and watched Liverpool beat Bolton 2-1.
Had a 2 hour siesta and then slept for 10 hours. Next day we found an Internet Cafe and managed to send some emails. We had lunch and dinner at the hotel as nothing else was open. The tourist office looked permanently closed. What a surprise. Very nice notice on the hotel wall. The French leave here with the most favourable impressions, the Italians leave here with the most favourable ambiance and the Argentios leave here with the most towels!
Summary of Rio Turbio. It is 10 minutes from the Chile border and that road looks very good in your rear view mirror! However if you want a really nice dinner the 1 hotel will oblige. There has never been a horse here.
We got the 12 noon bus from El Calafate and stopped at La Esperanza (half way across Argentina and very Estepa) and had some lunch and changed buses. The only accommodation to be found in Rio Turbio was the Hotel at ars250. Expensive for us but beggars can´t be choosers. We went through the town of 28th November ( stupid name, no?) and it had been described as pretty to us by the tourist office in Puerto Deseado. Another town to write down on your "do not visit list" . Put Rio Turbio down twice and underline it. 10,000 people and coal mining.
Next day Ianne had come out in large rashes again so we asked the hotel to get a doctor and 5 minutes later the ambulance arrived and whisked us off to hospital. After 4 hours on a drip and lots of cortisone injections Ianne was discharged and felt better. She was warned that the rashes may return and given a fairly strict diet. Incredibly, there was no charge for the ambulance and treatment.
As nothing is open New Year´s Evening and New Year´s Day we had our dinner at lunchtime and it was the best ( and most expensive) on the trip so far. Lots of beef! Both Lise and Hanne telephoned so we were happy.
On New Year´s Day everything closed but we could get breakfast at the hotel. We went for a walk to one of the hills that overlook the town and had a stunning view of the snow capped Chile mountains. It was overcast and not to hot which was good because Ianne had been told to keep out of the sun. We had corned beef sandwiches for lunch and tuna sandwiches for dinner, watched 3 films and watched Liverpool beat Bolton 2-1.
Had a 2 hour siesta and then slept for 10 hours. Next day we found an Internet Cafe and managed to send some emails. We had lunch and dinner at the hotel as nothing else was open. The tourist office looked permanently closed. What a surprise. Very nice notice on the hotel wall. The French leave here with the most favourable impressions, the Italians leave here with the most favourable ambiance and the Argentios leave here with the most towels!
Summary of Rio Turbio. It is 10 minutes from the Chile border and that road looks very good in your rear view mirror! However if you want a really nice dinner the 1 hotel will oblige. There has never been a horse here.
El Calafate (Again)
Wednesday 29th January 2010
We took the bus back to El Calafate, and to hostel Buenos Aires again and were welcomed like long lost friends. Juan ( the manager) had returned from Buenos Aires for Christmas and he thought he had put on 4 kilos.We stopped half way on the journey at a hotel in the middle of nowhere where allegedly Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid stopped for a month on their way to Chile. Nice place as a Parador where horse riding and white water rafting ( not too wild can be enjoyed). If we had a car it might be a nice place to visit. The hotel is also reputed to make the best empanadas in Argentina. They were good! All buses to El Chalten stop there.
The next day Ianne had come out in a rash so we called the doctor in and an allergic reaction to something eaten was the diagnosis. Got some tablets. Red patches everywhere on the body and itchy beyond belief.
We took the bus back to El Calafate, and to hostel Buenos Aires again and were welcomed like long lost friends. Juan ( the manager) had returned from Buenos Aires for Christmas and he thought he had put on 4 kilos.We stopped half way on the journey at a hotel in the middle of nowhere where allegedly Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid stopped for a month on their way to Chile. Nice place as a Parador where horse riding and white water rafting ( not too wild can be enjoyed). If we had a car it might be a nice place to visit. The hotel is also reputed to make the best empanadas in Argentina. They were good! All buses to El Chalten stop there.
The next day Ianne had come out in a rash so we called the doctor in and an allergic reaction to something eaten was the diagnosis. Got some tablets. Red patches everywhere on the body and itchy beyond belief.
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