Monday 3rd January 2011- Friday 7th January 2011
We caught the Bolivian standard Bus Sur , single decker from Rio Turbio to Puerto Natales at 10.30. The bus was probably antique. As we were only 20 passengers we went through both borders like a dose of salts (quickly) and after an early lunch and an Internet Cafe we checked our gear into the Navimag Offices on the quay side at Puerto Natales and wrapped the back packs and day packs in plastic bags, just in cases, to keep the rain out in transit from the offices to our cabin on the boat. The boat arrived 5 hours late but no explanation was given. We boarded at 22.00 and was shown to our AAA cabin ( the most expensive on the boat). Perhaps this is what it means to push the boat out!!!!!! All of the AAA members get a tour of the boat and we were shown our own dining room! Very posh! Did I mention that we got a 15% discount on the fare because we are pensioners!! The plastic bags were a little wet but everything else was dry. Cabins were fine.
On Tuesday the ferry got underway at 05.00 and we met our fellow passengers for breakfast. A Spaniard from Barcelona and his Venezuelan wife, a couple of Swiss Phd students who just booked the wrong price passage and an Australian chap and his wife. I did ask if he had heard the cricket scores and he said not. Lying Aussie.. Apparently we get complimentary wine for lunch and dinner (hic, hic). The Chilean fjords are just as I imagined not very wide with steep, forested sides. We sailed up to an incredible glacier with lots of photos taken. Weather intermittent drizzle and sun and boat very smooth and you don´t really know you are on a boat. A two hour siesta was enjoyed. For some reason we received a nice free bottle of tinto in the cabin. We went on to the bridge to check out the Captain and he was not found wanting. No steering wheel just adjustments to the autopilot. Although they have loads of SatNav etc they still plot the course using manual charts as well.
On Wednesday morning we were up at 06.15 for our trip to Puerto Eden. This is seriously remote and originally was used as a flying boat staging post. This must be a new contender for the "arse end of nowhere" location but this one is beautiful as well. Nothing big enough for the boat to tie up to so about 100 passengers went ashore in motor boats from the port. The people on the island are poor, poor, poor. There must have been six people selling home made trinkets, wooden carvings etc. All incredibly bad quality. Fishing seems to be the main activity and although they have electricity there is no sign of any fish processing plant. The Puerto is in Parque Nacional Bernado O ´Higgins so its pristine nature will be preserved. All walking in the Port is done on board walks. Probably 2 kms or so. After this the sun came out big time and we were where the captain earns his corn "The English Narrows". Quite narrow and where are the lifeboats? springs to mind. After a late lunch and a little siesta we came out of the fjords for the 12 hour sail on the Pacific Ocean. Fantastic with 3 albatrosses following the boat, a couple of dolphins and loads of petrels and cormorants. The sea was calm with no white caps but large swells so we rolled about a bit in the bunk and it was difficult to tell if you had had one too many or the boat was rocking. Possibly both, do I hear you say?
On Thursday the weather was beautiful with full sun. Now the channel is incredibly wide and good views of the Chilean Volcanoes. Would you believe that there is Bingo tonight followed by a Latin Fiesta Evening. The fellow AAA passengers were very impressed with my Bingo knowledge. Legs 11 etc. We were told that breakfast is 07.00 tomorrow and we leave the ship at 08.00.
Bingo was fun in that if you won a prize you had to do a little dance. A fair amount of vino had been consumed by a lot of the passengers so the dancing was good. The Latin evening was tame in comparison.
Friday morning..Stupid, bloody captain arrived at 05.00 two hours early!! What a cretino! We were all woken up the the lovely sound of the anchor being dropped.
Summary of the Evangelistas Ferry of Navimag. Although we paid a small fortune for the tickets (less pensioner discount of 15%) we believe it was worth it. The other classes all ate together in a "canteen" which was at best plastic. Apparently the food was fine and lots of it. We also had good weather. If it had been raining for 4 days , jumping of the boat would have been considered. If you want to take the trip, pay the money for AAA and pray for good weather. We had horses on our boat and no cows so there was no smell of cow shite as Malcolm and Linda, our new mates had, on their trip.
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