Saturday 25th December - Tuesday 28th December 2010
I went out early to get money. Only 1 ATM working, no change there! We had a late breakfast at the hostel and caught the bus at 13.00. The trip took exactly 3 1/4 hours including a 15 minute stop half way for relief and coffee. Near El Chalten ( only 25 years old) the bus stopped for us to take pictures of the mountains behind El Chalten and a long distance view of the Viedma Glacier and Lake, with blue icebergs.
At El Chalten we were welcomed into the office of the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, given a map of the trekking capabilities and a 15 minute talk on the dos and don´ts within the Parque. We found our hostel (most expensive so far on our while trip) 5 blocks up and 2 across from the bus station. The ATM is directly across the road from the bus station and had no money. There is no bank.
We took an evening stroll to the waterfall, 8 km round trip,very nice and had a super pizza for dinner on the way home. Went to bed at 23.00 tired and happy. Weather very blustery!
El Chalten only exists to cater for the needs of the trekkers in the Nacional Parque. If you don´t trek, want to ride a hire bike or ride on a horse, then do not come here. The location is sensational and it is the trekking capital of Argentina. It has lots of wooden houses, little shops, hostels and restaurants and is very small compared to El Calafate.
The next day found us walking to the mirador del Torre. A glacial valley with mountains and a glacier at the end and in the distance. We saw 2 condors briefly and it was blustery but quite warm. Although there were many walkers the trails was not crowded and we filled our water bottle from the stream. We estimate a total distance covered of 10-11km and we walked the northerly route back into town . Very steep descent and would have been very difficult to climb up and out of town. It started raining and HC went into an Internet cafe to get a message to Dave that she is OK. No mobile coverage here. Due to our exertions we had a roll for lunch and a 3 hour siesta. Excellent! We had a couple of beers and a game of cards on the hostel before dinner. The bastards in the restaurant tried to overcharge us by 20 pesos. Why do they do this! HC was left to point it out nicely. I am afraid that my method would not have been so diplomatic. Absolutely peeing down and cold on the walk back to the hostel.
Next day calm and sunny and we walked up to the Condor and Aguilar miradors. I walked to the Aguilar on my own because the walk up was steep and MC and HC needed a little rest. The viewpoint from Aguilar is over the plain to Lago Viedma ( blue icebergs) and very nice. We had lunch out for a change and my pumpkin soup was excellent. Ianne and I walked up to book horse riding for the next day and HC had an extended nap. Internet here costs GBP2 or EUR2.35 for an hour. Very expensive.
On 28th we had an early breakfast and we all walked up to where HC and MC were to start their horse ride. I hit my trail at 09.30 and went up, up, up for 7 kms with wind against. Even for an experienced trekker like me(!) it was tough. The funny thing is that other walkers didn´t find it so tough! Any road up I was rewarded with a fantastic view of Mount Fitz Roy from the mirador and then on to turquoise blue Laguna Capri and camping without facilities. Pausing briefly to take a little coffee from my flask and do what bears do in the woods, I took some pictures of the fungus that affects all of the trees in Patagonia and destroys the leaves. I left the viewpoint at 12.00 and had arranged to meet the girls at 13.00 at the end of their ride. I arrived at 13.00 they were half an hour late.
On the way down I heard a toc, toc, toc and there he was the carpintero ( wood pecker) busy at his task about 8 metres off the trail. Photos were taken. Then, bugger me, a man was leading two fully laden llamas up the trail. Where they were going and why is a mystery but again photos were taken. The reference to Israel is that El Chalten is full of Israelis and there were maybe 300 on the trail going up as I was coming down and I am surrounded by Hebrew ( a nasty language on the ear) in the Internet Cafe. Why they are all here I have no idea.
When the girls came back they could barely walk. A coffee was taken and a well earned siesta , 2 hours was enjoyed. Tonight is our last night in El Chalten and tomorrow we are back to El Calafate where HC starts her plane journeys back to Buenos Aires and Cordoba, Aerolineas Argentinas willing!
Summary of El Chalten; Stunning location and facilities if you enjoy trekking and we have all enjoyed it very much. More expensive than anywhere else we have been on our travels. Everybody knows lasagne
The next episode in this everyday story of travelling folk will be from Rio Turbio (The 1 horse left town a long time ago)
Tuesday 28 December 2010
Monday 27 December 2010
El Calafate
Monday 20th December - Saturday 25th December 2010
We left Puerto Natales for El Calafate at 08.30 and went through both lots of Customs and into Argentina in under an hour. Considering we were on a full 48 seater bus this must be some sort of record! The trip took 7 hours in total and we settled into Hostal Buenos Aires, nice and comfortable and only 1 1/2 blocks from the bus terminal.
Next day we wandered round the laguna with flamingos, ducks etc and picked Hanne up from the airport. We ate at a pizza restaurant and continued to be amazed at how expensive Argentina has become. We earlier discovered that someone had been trying to use our credit cards on line when we tried to use them to book the Glacier Mini trekking trip. After a very expensive telephone call to the UK we found out that the bank had blocked all of these so that was not an issue but we had to let them block the cards and send us new ones, to Tavizna and then Cordoba......Bummer. It totally peed down for 4 hours and was not warm.
Next day found us wandering around in El Calafate and trying to get cash from 1 of the ATM´s. There are 5 in total and only 1 had any money. You can only take out 1000 pesos per day and with no credit cards, this becomes a problem. Not to be outdone we transferred funds into HC´s UK Nationwide account and she could then also get money out.
El Calafate exists to only service tourist visits to Perito Moreno Glacier. As such it is full of hotels, hostels, restaurants and travel agencies but the houses and gardens are really nicely maintained and wood features widely. Supermarkets are not allowed to give or sell plastic bags It peed down for 5 hours.
Next day in good weather we had a full day including mini trekking (90 mins) on the Glacier. Firstly on the bus the 90 kms and then on a boat to the face of the glacier. Then across the lake to start the trekking on the glacier and get your crampons on. I was fine going up the hills but no good going down and needed help. Marianne and Hanne did good work. Then we went back to the refugio to eat our home made lunch and at 15.15 we took the boat back. We had about an hour on the walkways with the face of the glacier very close( new since Steffen and Lise were there) and very well made as was the cafeteria. All in all the Nacional Park has spent its money on providing excellent facilities. After this tiring day I cooked curry chorizo with green and red peppers. Hanne´s face was very red. She had forgotten to put sun block on. We also had to borrow some shades from the bus driver for her It would have been very silly not to have sun glasses on the glacier! Amazing day with sunshine all the way!
Next day we were all candidates for the Rudolph Red Nose Reindeer prize..Ianne and I went for a little walk and HC slept in. Again all ATM´s except one were empty. We spoke to Lise and Coby on the hostel Skype with no picture from us possible. The hostel is not doing anything special for Christmas. Weather sunny and just a little sweater needed. Xmas dinner tonight at El Cucharon. We had to pay a deposit to secure a table and the set price is ARS230 , 3 course, not Christmas food, excluding booze. This price was enough. The restaurant was full of tourists with people being turned away. Nice food then some free fizz and sweet cakes , sweet bread and sugared peanuts. Value for money would have to be questioned but not ouch! On the way home at 12 midnight the fireworks started. My God they do like a nice firework! The hostel had some free cider and sweet cakes. All I wanted was a cup of coffee.
Summary El Calafate. It is nice but expensive and they need to sort out the ATM situation for the thousands of tourists who come to see the Perito Moreno Glacier. Again it is a one trick pony of a town with the Glacier as the only attraction. Next El Chalten (resident population about 500), the trekking capital of Argentina and rumour has it even more expensive than El Calafate. Holy peso Batman, can this be true? To find out the answer, be sure to tune in to the next episode of this blog...
We left Puerto Natales for El Calafate at 08.30 and went through both lots of Customs and into Argentina in under an hour. Considering we were on a full 48 seater bus this must be some sort of record! The trip took 7 hours in total and we settled into Hostal Buenos Aires, nice and comfortable and only 1 1/2 blocks from the bus terminal.
Next day we wandered round the laguna with flamingos, ducks etc and picked Hanne up from the airport. We ate at a pizza restaurant and continued to be amazed at how expensive Argentina has become. We earlier discovered that someone had been trying to use our credit cards on line when we tried to use them to book the Glacier Mini trekking trip. After a very expensive telephone call to the UK we found out that the bank had blocked all of these so that was not an issue but we had to let them block the cards and send us new ones, to Tavizna and then Cordoba......Bummer. It totally peed down for 4 hours and was not warm.
Next day found us wandering around in El Calafate and trying to get cash from 1 of the ATM´s. There are 5 in total and only 1 had any money. You can only take out 1000 pesos per day and with no credit cards, this becomes a problem. Not to be outdone we transferred funds into HC´s UK Nationwide account and she could then also get money out.
El Calafate exists to only service tourist visits to Perito Moreno Glacier. As such it is full of hotels, hostels, restaurants and travel agencies but the houses and gardens are really nicely maintained and wood features widely. Supermarkets are not allowed to give or sell plastic bags It peed down for 5 hours.
Next day in good weather we had a full day including mini trekking (90 mins) on the Glacier. Firstly on the bus the 90 kms and then on a boat to the face of the glacier. Then across the lake to start the trekking on the glacier and get your crampons on. I was fine going up the hills but no good going down and needed help. Marianne and Hanne did good work. Then we went back to the refugio to eat our home made lunch and at 15.15 we took the boat back. We had about an hour on the walkways with the face of the glacier very close( new since Steffen and Lise were there) and very well made as was the cafeteria. All in all the Nacional Park has spent its money on providing excellent facilities. After this tiring day I cooked curry chorizo with green and red peppers. Hanne´s face was very red. She had forgotten to put sun block on. We also had to borrow some shades from the bus driver for her It would have been very silly not to have sun glasses on the glacier! Amazing day with sunshine all the way!
Next day we were all candidates for the Rudolph Red Nose Reindeer prize..Ianne and I went for a little walk and HC slept in. Again all ATM´s except one were empty. We spoke to Lise and Coby on the hostel Skype with no picture from us possible. The hostel is not doing anything special for Christmas. Weather sunny and just a little sweater needed. Xmas dinner tonight at El Cucharon. We had to pay a deposit to secure a table and the set price is ARS230 , 3 course, not Christmas food, excluding booze. This price was enough. The restaurant was full of tourists with people being turned away. Nice food then some free fizz and sweet cakes , sweet bread and sugared peanuts. Value for money would have to be questioned but not ouch! On the way home at 12 midnight the fireworks started. My God they do like a nice firework! The hostel had some free cider and sweet cakes. All I wanted was a cup of coffee.
Summary El Calafate. It is nice but expensive and they need to sort out the ATM situation for the thousands of tourists who come to see the Perito Moreno Glacier. Again it is a one trick pony of a town with the Glacier as the only attraction. Next El Chalten (resident population about 500), the trekking capital of Argentina and rumour has it even more expensive than El Calafate. Holy peso Batman, can this be true? To find out the answer, be sure to tune in to the next episode of this blog...
Puerto Natales - Chile
Wednesday15th December-Sunday 19th December 2010
The bus trip to Puerto Natales takes 3 hours. At the hostel we met two Dutch people who had cycled from Peru! It was very windy and cold and the town is full of hostels and restaurants all to service people wanting to visit Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. Our hostel Nico´s 2 adventures was absolutely fine. All provisions for this town come from Puerto Montt on the Navimag ferry ( one per week) so the locals say everything is expensive.
We took the day trip to Torres del Paine, 2 1/2 hours away on the bus. The park is geared up for trekkers staying overnight in dorms for 90USD per person plus park entrance fees and transfers. We determined that we were neither fit enough of rich enough to do the standard 3 day , stay in the park, trek.
The weather was also a determining factor as it was really windy and the peaks were only visible from time to time. The lakes were stunning and turquoise in colour except Lake Grey which was grey. Fair enough? However in lake Grey there were blue icebergs from the Grey Glacier. We saw a condor, an armadillo, lots of choikes and lots of guanacos. We also went to a brilliant waterfall where the winds were so strong that we could barely stand up. We must have been outdoors for most of the day because we slept solidly on the coach on the way back.
Our new found friends Mal and Linda came round and we ended up in a cheap restaurant that they had found. A 3 course dinner was less than GBP4 and a nice bottle of Sauvignon Blanc was 3 times that amount. You win some and you lose some.
Nest day, Ianne´s birthday we wandered round town and visited the Tourist Office. Our suspicions were confirmed that really Puerto Natales exists only to service the Torres del Paine Park. The Navimag Ferry coming in every Monday, we will be taking to Puerto Montt (through the fjords and with smelly cows on board) in early January. Got the Blog up to date for Ushuaia. We went to restaurant Afrigonia to celebrate Ianne´s birthday with Mal and Linda. Excellent food and somehow we managed to consume 4 bottles of Sauvignon Blanc. We asked for the chicken curry to be spiced up. It was! Hot stuff. We later found out that this was the best restaurant in PN and we found out about it from a Canadian Guy in Ushuaia. If you visit PN it is well worth blowing your budget to bits with a visit.
On the Sunday the hostel still gave us breakfast even though we appeared at 10.30. Considering we are paying GBP 23 for en suite facilities we are being treated regally. Weather a little warmer and got the blog done as far as Punta Arenas.
We talked with an Israeli couple where she had broken her nose by falling over (totally sober) outside a restaurant with a heavy back pack on. She had to go to Punta Arenas for an X ray because although there was an X ray machine in PN they could not use it until Monday and this was Friday night. The moral of the story is...only break your nose in PN from Monday onwards. The hostal was preparing a parilla for the daughter´s birthday. A very large lamb was sawed in half with a saw in the kitchen.
Summary of Puerto Natales. Torres del Paine. Torres del Paine and Torres del Paine. Next stop, El Calafate.
The bus trip to Puerto Natales takes 3 hours. At the hostel we met two Dutch people who had cycled from Peru! It was very windy and cold and the town is full of hostels and restaurants all to service people wanting to visit Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. Our hostel Nico´s 2 adventures was absolutely fine. All provisions for this town come from Puerto Montt on the Navimag ferry ( one per week) so the locals say everything is expensive.
We took the day trip to Torres del Paine, 2 1/2 hours away on the bus. The park is geared up for trekkers staying overnight in dorms for 90USD per person plus park entrance fees and transfers. We determined that we were neither fit enough of rich enough to do the standard 3 day , stay in the park, trek.
The weather was also a determining factor as it was really windy and the peaks were only visible from time to time. The lakes were stunning and turquoise in colour except Lake Grey which was grey. Fair enough? However in lake Grey there were blue icebergs from the Grey Glacier. We saw a condor, an armadillo, lots of choikes and lots of guanacos. We also went to a brilliant waterfall where the winds were so strong that we could barely stand up. We must have been outdoors for most of the day because we slept solidly on the coach on the way back.
Our new found friends Mal and Linda came round and we ended up in a cheap restaurant that they had found. A 3 course dinner was less than GBP4 and a nice bottle of Sauvignon Blanc was 3 times that amount. You win some and you lose some.
Nest day, Ianne´s birthday we wandered round town and visited the Tourist Office. Our suspicions were confirmed that really Puerto Natales exists only to service the Torres del Paine Park. The Navimag Ferry coming in every Monday, we will be taking to Puerto Montt (through the fjords and with smelly cows on board) in early January. Got the Blog up to date for Ushuaia. We went to restaurant Afrigonia to celebrate Ianne´s birthday with Mal and Linda. Excellent food and somehow we managed to consume 4 bottles of Sauvignon Blanc. We asked for the chicken curry to be spiced up. It was! Hot stuff. We later found out that this was the best restaurant in PN and we found out about it from a Canadian Guy in Ushuaia. If you visit PN it is well worth blowing your budget to bits with a visit.
On the Sunday the hostel still gave us breakfast even though we appeared at 10.30. Considering we are paying GBP 23 for en suite facilities we are being treated regally. Weather a little warmer and got the blog done as far as Punta Arenas.
We talked with an Israeli couple where she had broken her nose by falling over (totally sober) outside a restaurant with a heavy back pack on. She had to go to Punta Arenas for an X ray because although there was an X ray machine in PN they could not use it until Monday and this was Friday night. The moral of the story is...only break your nose in PN from Monday onwards. The hostal was preparing a parilla for the daughter´s birthday. A very large lamb was sawed in half with a saw in the kitchen.
Summary of Puerto Natales. Torres del Paine. Torres del Paine and Torres del Paine. Next stop, El Calafate.
Saturday 18 December 2010
Punta Arenas, Capital of Patagonia Chile, Population 160000
Sunday 17th December 2010
We caught the bus at 08.00 from along San Martin, our landlady had provided an early breakfast for us. Single decker Chile bus with no leg room and air con not working. It had all the makings of a very difficult 12 hour journey. The journey through the mountains and as far as Tolhuin, stop for coffee, was as spectacular as the inward trip. Again via Rio Grande and again it was confirmed as a sh.. hole. We are of the opinion that the Chile side of the Argentina/Chile border in Patagonia qualifies for the tag of...arse end of nowhere...Tavizna is an urban metropolis in comparison. The crossing was quite rough but the arrival of 3 dolphins along the side of the boat provided some pleasure. Again many people got soaked when the captain turned the boat into the waves. Fine sport this. The boat was selling super panchos, hot dogs, but I was not allowed one.
The bus was on time and we got to our hostel Costanero and went to the supermarket for provisions. The supermarket was trying to close at 21.00 and was due to close at 22.00 but many people who were on the bus insisted that they didn't close so we were able to buy groceries and get Chile money out of the ATM. Possibly the narrowest isles in a supermarket that I have ever seen. The fruit and vegetables are expensive reflecting the locality of Punta Arenas and difficulty and distance of supplying it.
Monday 13th December 2010
Windy, windy, windy with gusts up to 140kph. We could barely stand up and the ferry across the mainland to Tierra Del Fuego was cancelled causing havoc with the travellers. We met Mal and Linda from Suffolk who are taking a year out and went with them to Zona Franca, the duty free sector of Punta Arenas. Lashings of Christmas Songs. Same tunes as normal but different words, of course. We bought a new camera, the old one having had liquid in it and a pair of binoculars. The wind was so strong that we could not walk along the newly developed sea front. We bought some bus tickets for Puerto Natales for Wednesday and booked Nico's 11 Adventure hostel for 5 nights. Much better prices, only GBP 24 for a double en suite. Cooked a nice chili con carne for dinner.
Tuesday 14th December 2010
No wind today so we could walk along the sea front, probably 5 km of it. We went to a local museum which was a house owned by a wealthy family and a lot of history about PA. Very nice. We went to the tourist office only to find the notice ...on strike..outside. Ah well.
The afternoon found us in the vast cemetery..and no we were not dying to go there..Punta Arenas was founded by immigrants from Scotland, Germany and Croatia and the cemetery reflected this. Like a lot of Patagonia the houses are metal clad to reduce the wind effects. We were almost attacked by a couple of dogs which is most unusual but when I turned round and shouted they both ran away and one got stuck on the fence while trying to jump over.
I had a row with a pig ignorant Frenchman at the hostel about him monopolising the computer for downloading pictures to Facebook. I cooked chicken casera which we shared with a young German lad who was studying in Santiago de Chile. The washing done by the hotel was very expensive. clp5000 for a bag.
Summary of Punta Arenas..It has an airport and a duty free zone. The newly developed,very nice, walkway along the sea front will be used by many people the day that the place has no wind, some sun and the temperature rises above the Summer average of 12C.
http://www.google.co.uk/images?hl=es&q=punta+arenas&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=UB4NTdXTLoWClAeBgM3QDA&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=4&ved=0CDcQsAQwAw
We caught the bus at 08.00 from along San Martin, our landlady had provided an early breakfast for us. Single decker Chile bus with no leg room and air con not working. It had all the makings of a very difficult 12 hour journey. The journey through the mountains and as far as Tolhuin, stop for coffee, was as spectacular as the inward trip. Again via Rio Grande and again it was confirmed as a sh.. hole. We are of the opinion that the Chile side of the Argentina/Chile border in Patagonia qualifies for the tag of...arse end of nowhere...Tavizna is an urban metropolis in comparison. The crossing was quite rough but the arrival of 3 dolphins along the side of the boat provided some pleasure. Again many people got soaked when the captain turned the boat into the waves. Fine sport this. The boat was selling super panchos, hot dogs, but I was not allowed one.
The bus was on time and we got to our hostel Costanero and went to the supermarket for provisions. The supermarket was trying to close at 21.00 and was due to close at 22.00 but many people who were on the bus insisted that they didn't close so we were able to buy groceries and get Chile money out of the ATM. Possibly the narrowest isles in a supermarket that I have ever seen. The fruit and vegetables are expensive reflecting the locality of Punta Arenas and difficulty and distance of supplying it.
Monday 13th December 2010
Windy, windy, windy with gusts up to 140kph. We could barely stand up and the ferry across the mainland to Tierra Del Fuego was cancelled causing havoc with the travellers. We met Mal and Linda from Suffolk who are taking a year out and went with them to Zona Franca, the duty free sector of Punta Arenas. Lashings of Christmas Songs. Same tunes as normal but different words, of course. We bought a new camera, the old one having had liquid in it and a pair of binoculars. The wind was so strong that we could not walk along the newly developed sea front. We bought some bus tickets for Puerto Natales for Wednesday and booked Nico's 11 Adventure hostel for 5 nights. Much better prices, only GBP 24 for a double en suite. Cooked a nice chili con carne for dinner.
Tuesday 14th December 2010
No wind today so we could walk along the sea front, probably 5 km of it. We went to a local museum which was a house owned by a wealthy family and a lot of history about PA. Very nice. We went to the tourist office only to find the notice ...on strike..outside. Ah well.
The afternoon found us in the vast cemetery..and no we were not dying to go there..Punta Arenas was founded by immigrants from Scotland, Germany and Croatia and the cemetery reflected this. Like a lot of Patagonia the houses are metal clad to reduce the wind effects. We were almost attacked by a couple of dogs which is most unusual but when I turned round and shouted they both ran away and one got stuck on the fence while trying to jump over.
I had a row with a pig ignorant Frenchman at the hostel about him monopolising the computer for downloading pictures to Facebook. I cooked chicken casera which we shared with a young German lad who was studying in Santiago de Chile. The washing done by the hotel was very expensive. clp5000 for a bag.
Summary of Punta Arenas..It has an airport and a duty free zone. The newly developed,very nice, walkway along the sea front will be used by many people the day that the place has no wind, some sun and the temperature rises above the Summer average of 12C.
http://www.google.co.uk/images?hl=es&q=punta+arenas&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=UB4NTdXTLoWClAeBgM3QDA&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=4&ved=0CDcQsAQwAw
Friday 17 December 2010
Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Patagonia
6th December 2010
We left fairly promptly at 09.00 and headed south. Same estepa, same wind. Waited at Argentine border for 2 hours, all baggage and hand baggage had to go through the machine.We had no idea why because we were leaving Argentina. The machine was manned by the pre menstrual bitch from hell who delighted in shouting at all of the travellers for putting their luggage on the conveyor belt before she had told them they could. Then in only half an hour we were into Chile where Ianne had to do her immigration form again because she had ticked yes and no to ..do you have any fruit..and she had written pasas and marmelade . The immigration lady was not interested in the fruit , only the form. I politely told her that I was pleased that Bureaucracy was alive and well and living at the Argentine.Chile border in Patagonia. She smiled. It must have been the wind..
For the ferry crossing across the Magellan Straits, the ferry backed up on to the beach with its ramp down and the coach went down the concrete ramp and up the metal ramp on to the boat. God alone knows what Health and Safety would have made of this in the UK. It was windy with plenty of white tops. People were taking the air forward when the Captain turned the boat into the waves. 45 very wet people rushed back inside. It was very funny. After the 30 minute crossing we had hours of dirt road to the Chile. Argentine border. Very quick immigration with only passports stamped and no baggage checks. We went via Rio Grande which was big and ugly and probably as much fun as Rio Gallegos and got to Toluin in 2 and a half hours. This is a new town, right on a beautiful lake, with government grants for everything and no tax. No doubt in a few years the pristine forests and lakes will be shot to bits with pollution. Then up into the mountains, black and with snow. We arrived at Ushuaia 21.15 only 15 minutes late. Still light, 7C and no wind...Bought a pizza and ate back at the hostel..Early to bed. 12 hour bus journeys make you tired.
7th December 2010
There is no boat service to Punta Arenas and no flight either. The only option is back on the bus for 12 hours or go to Puerto Williams, down the Beagle Channel and in Chile and take the boat to PA..36 hours..We wndered around town after a full briefing from our hostess. Things are expensive here. Arg 14 pesos for a coffee GBP2.50 . We took lunch at the Irish Pub ..they are everywhere..and then went on the bus tour. The bus was incredibly old and I told the Clippy ..who had a proper ticket machine..that Uncle Michael probably helped to build the bus. It was from 1928 I think. We had to have an invisible passenger with us because the bus could only go with 4 passengers and we were only 3. The tourist information on San Martin was very helpful. We had our first sign of the Argentine Navy, 5 small gey and black ships. Antarctic cruise ships and Maersk container ships dominate the port. The sun is shining and it is high summer at 12C.We booked to go on the bus to Punta Arenas on Sunday for ARS250, that is enough money. We had a chicken dinner at a reasonable restaurant with a Tango Show upstairs. Still light at 22.45. Ushuaia is good for tourists especially those who have come down the boring east coast of Argentina. It is a proper city with restaurantes and tourist attractions..The shops are very Christmassy and it seems appropriate for it to be Christmas time because it is cold.
8th December 2010
I went to the internet shop in town. Stupid because there was a facilty at the hostal.We went on the cruise on the Beagle Channel on the Rumbo Sur boat, a catamaran with leather seats and a cafeteria on board. A touch of luxury for 6 hours with lots of ships, a plane , sea lions, penguins, sea birds etc. We saw Puerto Williams, Chile from the boat. Things must be expensive there because they get their provisions from Punta Arenas, some 36 hours away on the boat. Population 2000. This is the world's most southerly town, Ushuaia claiming the title for cities. fin del mundo,end of the world everywhere. The suset was spectacular with pinks and reds and greys. A brief shower on the boat, no real wind and temperatures of 8 degrees. Definitely take the Rumbo Sur tour in Ushuaia.
9th December 2010
Spent the morning at the hostal catching up on things. Then museum in the afternoon with pouring rain. The Fin Del Mundo Museum . pay. is very good showing the history of Ushuaia. The place only grew when they introduced tax free status for companies and now they have 80000 people and the growth is totally out of control with 9 yards of illegal housing and lack of social services. Argentina is still very prickly about its borders and the Chileans and Argies look at each other quite sternly in this part of the world where, if you break wind while sailing, you change country.
10th December 2010
We transferred hostal because Hostelworld said our first hostel was full when in fact it was empty. Cleverer people than me can tell me why this should be. Not too far away but expensive ars240 with shared bathroom.GBP40 per night. We walked up to the glacier. Probably 11 km each way but a lovely walk encompassing sleet and snow showers and wind. We were a little tired but managed it ok. We went into the cafe at the entrance to the park and I had chicken stew .casera. and Ianne had pumpkin.calabasa. soup. Both wre delicious.
Ianne then had a go at Canopy or zip wire. She enjoyed it so much that she wants to have another go the next time we come across it. On the way back we too a path to shorten the journey down the mountain and soon found ourselves in prime forest and bogs with no path. We were the first people there I am sure. We knew that the forest backed up to the mountains for probably 3 kms and that we had to go down. We had to cross mountain streams and managed without wet feet. After an hour we saw a house and clambered down a very steep slope , lost sight of the house, but saw a derelict restaurant which we had noticed on the way up. To get there we had to cross the mountain torrent via a tree which had fallen across. With the aid of a balancing stick we managed to get across to civilisation. We joined the road down some 200 metres below where we had taken the short cut. Back at the hostel Syvia, the owner, allowed me to cook as a special treat. She doesn't like the smell of cooking in her hostel. Spag Bog and half a bottle of Cab Sauv and we retired to bed knackered but happy.
We came across yellow growths on trees known as Pan del Indio. Apparently you can boil them and eat them but we tried them raw and they had no taste. It seems that the rain and snow in Ushuaia comes in the afternoons. Nobody bothers with a weather forecast because it is never correct.
11th December 2010
The legs ache a bit after yesterday's exertions but generally we are fine. If the weather holds up we will go to the National Park some 15km west and right on the Chile border. We took the minibus to the Parque Nacional de Tierrra Fuego. We got dropped off and walked maybe 7/10 km with nice woods, geese, bays etc. No sun but no rain and wind not so bad. We took the thermos with coffee and had a little snack on a few occasions. Education section. Previously when things took a bit of time you could say it was like watching paint dry or grass grow. I can add to this in a mega way. Now you can say it was like a peat bog being fully formed. This takes 14000 years. You can see one in its early stages on this trip.
It turned a bit chilly so we caught the bus back at 17.00 having previously enjoyed a coffee and a hot chocolate for ars 28 or GBP 4.50 . Ouch.
Summary of Ushuaia. We loved it despite the expense. GBP40 per night not ensuite is too much. Restaurants too are expensive by Argentinian standards but the setting surrounded by black mountains with snow and the Beagle Channel make it almost surreal. You certainly need 5 nights to make the trip worthwhile.
http://www.google.cl/images?hl=es&q=ushuaia&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=YX8LTcmYAoP98AaY_fnKDQ&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=3&ved=0CDsQsAQwAg
http://www.google.cl/images?um=1&hl=es&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=beagle+channel&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=
We will update the blog with our own photos when we get back to Cordoba probably in January 2011
We left fairly promptly at 09.00 and headed south. Same estepa, same wind. Waited at Argentine border for 2 hours, all baggage and hand baggage had to go through the machine.We had no idea why because we were leaving Argentina. The machine was manned by the pre menstrual bitch from hell who delighted in shouting at all of the travellers for putting their luggage on the conveyor belt before she had told them they could. Then in only half an hour we were into Chile where Ianne had to do her immigration form again because she had ticked yes and no to ..do you have any fruit..and she had written pasas and marmelade . The immigration lady was not interested in the fruit , only the form. I politely told her that I was pleased that Bureaucracy was alive and well and living at the Argentine.Chile border in Patagonia. She smiled. It must have been the wind..
For the ferry crossing across the Magellan Straits, the ferry backed up on to the beach with its ramp down and the coach went down the concrete ramp and up the metal ramp on to the boat. God alone knows what Health and Safety would have made of this in the UK. It was windy with plenty of white tops. People were taking the air forward when the Captain turned the boat into the waves. 45 very wet people rushed back inside. It was very funny. After the 30 minute crossing we had hours of dirt road to the Chile. Argentine border. Very quick immigration with only passports stamped and no baggage checks. We went via Rio Grande which was big and ugly and probably as much fun as Rio Gallegos and got to Toluin in 2 and a half hours. This is a new town, right on a beautiful lake, with government grants for everything and no tax. No doubt in a few years the pristine forests and lakes will be shot to bits with pollution. Then up into the mountains, black and with snow. We arrived at Ushuaia 21.15 only 15 minutes late. Still light, 7C and no wind...Bought a pizza and ate back at the hostel..Early to bed. 12 hour bus journeys make you tired.
7th December 2010
There is no boat service to Punta Arenas and no flight either. The only option is back on the bus for 12 hours or go to Puerto Williams, down the Beagle Channel and in Chile and take the boat to PA..36 hours..We wndered around town after a full briefing from our hostess. Things are expensive here. Arg 14 pesos for a coffee GBP2.50 . We took lunch at the Irish Pub ..they are everywhere..and then went on the bus tour. The bus was incredibly old and I told the Clippy ..who had a proper ticket machine..that Uncle Michael probably helped to build the bus. It was from 1928 I think. We had to have an invisible passenger with us because the bus could only go with 4 passengers and we were only 3. The tourist information on San Martin was very helpful. We had our first sign of the Argentine Navy, 5 small gey and black ships. Antarctic cruise ships and Maersk container ships dominate the port. The sun is shining and it is high summer at 12C.We booked to go on the bus to Punta Arenas on Sunday for ARS250, that is enough money. We had a chicken dinner at a reasonable restaurant with a Tango Show upstairs. Still light at 22.45. Ushuaia is good for tourists especially those who have come down the boring east coast of Argentina. It is a proper city with restaurantes and tourist attractions..The shops are very Christmassy and it seems appropriate for it to be Christmas time because it is cold.
8th December 2010
I went to the internet shop in town. Stupid because there was a facilty at the hostal.We went on the cruise on the Beagle Channel on the Rumbo Sur boat, a catamaran with leather seats and a cafeteria on board. A touch of luxury for 6 hours with lots of ships, a plane , sea lions, penguins, sea birds etc. We saw Puerto Williams, Chile from the boat. Things must be expensive there because they get their provisions from Punta Arenas, some 36 hours away on the boat. Population 2000. This is the world's most southerly town, Ushuaia claiming the title for cities. fin del mundo,end of the world everywhere. The suset was spectacular with pinks and reds and greys. A brief shower on the boat, no real wind and temperatures of 8 degrees. Definitely take the Rumbo Sur tour in Ushuaia.
9th December 2010
Spent the morning at the hostal catching up on things. Then museum in the afternoon with pouring rain. The Fin Del Mundo Museum . pay. is very good showing the history of Ushuaia. The place only grew when they introduced tax free status for companies and now they have 80000 people and the growth is totally out of control with 9 yards of illegal housing and lack of social services. Argentina is still very prickly about its borders and the Chileans and Argies look at each other quite sternly in this part of the world where, if you break wind while sailing, you change country.
10th December 2010
We transferred hostal because Hostelworld said our first hostel was full when in fact it was empty. Cleverer people than me can tell me why this should be. Not too far away but expensive ars240 with shared bathroom.GBP40 per night. We walked up to the glacier. Probably 11 km each way but a lovely walk encompassing sleet and snow showers and wind. We were a little tired but managed it ok. We went into the cafe at the entrance to the park and I had chicken stew .casera. and Ianne had pumpkin.calabasa. soup. Both wre delicious.
Ianne then had a go at Canopy or zip wire. She enjoyed it so much that she wants to have another go the next time we come across it. On the way back we too a path to shorten the journey down the mountain and soon found ourselves in prime forest and bogs with no path. We were the first people there I am sure. We knew that the forest backed up to the mountains for probably 3 kms and that we had to go down. We had to cross mountain streams and managed without wet feet. After an hour we saw a house and clambered down a very steep slope , lost sight of the house, but saw a derelict restaurant which we had noticed on the way up. To get there we had to cross the mountain torrent via a tree which had fallen across. With the aid of a balancing stick we managed to get across to civilisation. We joined the road down some 200 metres below where we had taken the short cut. Back at the hostel Syvia, the owner, allowed me to cook as a special treat. She doesn't like the smell of cooking in her hostel. Spag Bog and half a bottle of Cab Sauv and we retired to bed knackered but happy.
We came across yellow growths on trees known as Pan del Indio. Apparently you can boil them and eat them but we tried them raw and they had no taste. It seems that the rain and snow in Ushuaia comes in the afternoons. Nobody bothers with a weather forecast because it is never correct.
11th December 2010
The legs ache a bit after yesterday's exertions but generally we are fine. If the weather holds up we will go to the National Park some 15km west and right on the Chile border. We took the minibus to the Parque Nacional de Tierrra Fuego. We got dropped off and walked maybe 7/10 km with nice woods, geese, bays etc. No sun but no rain and wind not so bad. We took the thermos with coffee and had a little snack on a few occasions. Education section. Previously when things took a bit of time you could say it was like watching paint dry or grass grow. I can add to this in a mega way. Now you can say it was like a peat bog being fully formed. This takes 14000 years. You can see one in its early stages on this trip.
It turned a bit chilly so we caught the bus back at 17.00 having previously enjoyed a coffee and a hot chocolate for ars 28 or GBP 4.50 . Ouch.
Summary of Ushuaia. We loved it despite the expense. GBP40 per night not ensuite is too much. Restaurants too are expensive by Argentinian standards but the setting surrounded by black mountains with snow and the Beagle Channel make it almost surreal. You certainly need 5 nights to make the trip worthwhile.
http://www.google.cl/images?hl=es&q=ushuaia&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=YX8LTcmYAoP98AaY_fnKDQ&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=3&ved=0CDsQsAQwAg
http://www.google.cl/images?um=1&hl=es&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=beagle+channel&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=
We will update the blog with our own photos when we get back to Cordoba probably in January 2011
Thursday 9 December 2010
Rio Gallegos
Saturday 4th and Sunday 5th December
The Bradt guide to Argentina says of Comodoro Rivadavia (pop 186000) (we were in transit at the bus station 2 hours) "If you have the misfortune to get stuck here make sure you have a few unread novels and head for the beach Rada Tilly, 10 km south"
It says of Rio Gallegos "it is half the size of Comodoro Rivadavia but equally dull". It does not have a beach nearby. It was windy,windy,windy and cold,cold cold. Lonely Planet says that a lot of money has been spent on the approaches to Rio Gallegos since the Kirchners came into power (Their home town). Christ alone knows what it was like before, The restauarants and cafes are expensive ARS24 (GBP4) for a coffee and a tea.
As Steffen said "The best part of Rio Gallegos is the road out" I cannot add to this. Only go there is there is absolutely nowhere else to go. Hostels and hotels are expensive.
Next stop Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego,Patagonia, Argentina...Sneak preview of the blog from there "Bloody marvellous"
The Bradt guide to Argentina says of Comodoro Rivadavia (pop 186000) (we were in transit at the bus station 2 hours) "If you have the misfortune to get stuck here make sure you have a few unread novels and head for the beach Rada Tilly, 10 km south"
It says of Rio Gallegos "it is half the size of Comodoro Rivadavia but equally dull". It does not have a beach nearby. It was windy,windy,windy and cold,cold cold. Lonely Planet says that a lot of money has been spent on the approaches to Rio Gallegos since the Kirchners came into power (Their home town). Christ alone knows what it was like before, The restauarants and cafes are expensive ARS24 (GBP4) for a coffee and a tea.
As Steffen said "The best part of Rio Gallegos is the road out" I cannot add to this. Only go there is there is absolutely nowhere else to go. Hostels and hotels are expensive.
Next stop Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego,Patagonia, Argentina...Sneak preview of the blog from there "Bloody marvellous"
Wednesday 8 December 2010
Puerto Santa Cruz
Thursday 2nd December
Arrived at 09.00 and took a taxi the 5 blocks to Hotel Monte Leon. Did not sleep but took a coffee by the river (no wild life). Found the tourist office, no sign or office hours but very new. There was a tour to PN Monte Leon the next day. Could not book it but be at the tourist office at 09.00. We went to the Pioneer Museum and the Cultural Museum both fine and free. This place was founded in the 20´s. Windy, windy.
We were fed up with burgers and milanesas (breaded escallops) so the hotel owner suggested a local place 2 blocks up. It was a parilla, butchers, grocers and greengrocers that also sold booze. We had wonderful take away of steak , chips, salad, 2 beers, 1 water and 1 apple for Eur 9. Wonderful value. We were in bed by 9.
Friday 3rd December
We went to the tourism office. No sign of the bus and no reason given for non arrival. It transpired that it was the first week of operation of the bus, well it would have been if it had started. We were offered a taxi to and from the National Park with the driver waiting 3 hours there for ARS250. It was that or nothing so we took it.
We went the 50kms on paved road to the park entrance and registered then 20 kms on dirt road with more guanacos and choikes than you could shake a stick at. First stop was a 2 1/2 km walk to the penguin colony with warning signs for what to do if you see a puma. (No mention made of clean underwear). 60,000 penguins later we were back at the car. Lots of chicks were in the nests. Then on to an island full of sea birds and walks along the beach. I estimate that the tide was about 7 metres high. Serious stuff!
The coffee shop (20 kms from anywhere) was open. We were the only visitors to the Park that day which is the first Coastal Parque Nacional in Argentina. Took a lunch of ham, cheese and tomato with coffee for as and the driver and got back at 16.30. Marvellous day.
Had chicken from the same parilla which was more expensive at Eur 10. Marianne said we had more bottles in the price so that was OK.
We went to bed quite early because the bus to Rio Gallegos was scheduled to leave at 09.45 on Saturday.
Arrived at 09.00 and took a taxi the 5 blocks to Hotel Monte Leon. Did not sleep but took a coffee by the river (no wild life). Found the tourist office, no sign or office hours but very new. There was a tour to PN Monte Leon the next day. Could not book it but be at the tourist office at 09.00. We went to the Pioneer Museum and the Cultural Museum both fine and free. This place was founded in the 20´s. Windy, windy.
We were fed up with burgers and milanesas (breaded escallops) so the hotel owner suggested a local place 2 blocks up. It was a parilla, butchers, grocers and greengrocers that also sold booze. We had wonderful take away of steak , chips, salad, 2 beers, 1 water and 1 apple for Eur 9. Wonderful value. We were in bed by 9.
Friday 3rd December
We went to the tourism office. No sign of the bus and no reason given for non arrival. It transpired that it was the first week of operation of the bus, well it would have been if it had started. We were offered a taxi to and from the National Park with the driver waiting 3 hours there for ARS250. It was that or nothing so we took it.
We went the 50kms on paved road to the park entrance and registered then 20 kms on dirt road with more guanacos and choikes than you could shake a stick at. First stop was a 2 1/2 km walk to the penguin colony with warning signs for what to do if you see a puma. (No mention made of clean underwear). 60,000 penguins later we were back at the car. Lots of chicks were in the nests. Then on to an island full of sea birds and walks along the beach. I estimate that the tide was about 7 metres high. Serious stuff!
The coffee shop (20 kms from anywhere) was open. We were the only visitors to the Park that day which is the first Coastal Parque Nacional in Argentina. Took a lunch of ham, cheese and tomato with coffee for as and the driver and got back at 16.30. Marvellous day.
Had chicken from the same parilla which was more expensive at Eur 10. Marianne said we had more bottles in the price so that was OK.
We went to bed quite early because the bus to Rio Gallegos was scheduled to leave at 09.45 on Saturday.
Puerto Desado
Sunday 28th November
We were up early to catch the bus to Puerto Deseado which left 90 minutes late and then we had to change bus in Rawson. We arrived at 22.00 and took the taxi to Hotel Colon which was old but fine. The shower had no filter so it was like standing under a waterfall!
Monday 29th November
Very windy and cold. Full weatherproof gear was being worn. Went down to the river and booked a trip along the estuary for the next day. We found the internet cafe and booked to go overnight to Puerto Santa Cruz on Wednesday. Barca 5 Madrid 0. Saw the second half at the bus station. Marvellous! We had the worst dinner of the trip at Drugstore Quick (not a drugstore and not quick), super pollo!!! Vomitatous. We have pictures which you may see later. This place is to be avoided at all costs. The port is totally blocked by the coastguard so you cannot get in. God alone knows why.
Tuesday 30th November
Windy and cold. We turned up for our trip down the river at 15.00. No trip, not enough passengers. They had our mobile number but could not explain why they didn´t phone us. They did phone us the day before offering a different trip and confirming this trip. Unprofessional bastards! As always I was very calm and told them that I was not happy in a very nice way!
We saw another advert for a trip the next day and put our name down in case there were enough customers. There were not, so no river trip for us. Spent a lot of time in the Internet cafe booking stuff.
Wednesday 1st December
Windy, windy. Took a 2 km walk along the estuary into the wind. It was lovely and we saw lots of sea birds and a hare. We took lunch at the only restaurant worthy of its name in Puerto Deseado, Puerto Cristal which was unique for restaurants in Argentina. They actually had everything on the menu!
There was a juvenile guanaco tied up to a lamp post at the Prefectura (Coast guard). It transpired it had hurt its leg and someone was caring for it until it could be returned to the campo! Marianne had a nice stroke.
We caught the the bus at 19.15 to Puerto Santa Cruz via Caleta Olivia. The connecting bus arrived 75 minutes late at Caleta Olivia at 02.00. Being seasoned travellers we took this in our stride and managed to get some more buses booked to pass the time.
Verdict on Puerto Deseado. No hostels on Hostelworld. Very limited opportunities for trips. Perhaps better in high season but I wouln´t go beyond the foot of out stairs. Perfect for those enjoying winds of 65kmph.
We were up early to catch the bus to Puerto Deseado which left 90 minutes late and then we had to change bus in Rawson. We arrived at 22.00 and took the taxi to Hotel Colon which was old but fine. The shower had no filter so it was like standing under a waterfall!
Monday 29th November
Very windy and cold. Full weatherproof gear was being worn. Went down to the river and booked a trip along the estuary for the next day. We found the internet cafe and booked to go overnight to Puerto Santa Cruz on Wednesday. Barca 5 Madrid 0. Saw the second half at the bus station. Marvellous! We had the worst dinner of the trip at Drugstore Quick (not a drugstore and not quick), super pollo!!! Vomitatous. We have pictures which you may see later. This place is to be avoided at all costs. The port is totally blocked by the coastguard so you cannot get in. God alone knows why.
Tuesday 30th November
Windy and cold. We turned up for our trip down the river at 15.00. No trip, not enough passengers. They had our mobile number but could not explain why they didn´t phone us. They did phone us the day before offering a different trip and confirming this trip. Unprofessional bastards! As always I was very calm and told them that I was not happy in a very nice way!
We saw another advert for a trip the next day and put our name down in case there were enough customers. There were not, so no river trip for us. Spent a lot of time in the Internet cafe booking stuff.
Wednesday 1st December
Windy, windy. Took a 2 km walk along the estuary into the wind. It was lovely and we saw lots of sea birds and a hare. We took lunch at the only restaurant worthy of its name in Puerto Deseado, Puerto Cristal which was unique for restaurants in Argentina. They actually had everything on the menu!
There was a juvenile guanaco tied up to a lamp post at the Prefectura (Coast guard). It transpired it had hurt its leg and someone was caring for it until it could be returned to the campo! Marianne had a nice stroke.
We caught the the bus at 19.15 to Puerto Santa Cruz via Caleta Olivia. The connecting bus arrived 75 minutes late at Caleta Olivia at 02.00. Being seasoned travellers we took this in our stride and managed to get some more buses booked to pass the time.
Verdict on Puerto Deseado. No hostels on Hostelworld. Very limited opportunities for trips. Perhaps better in high season but I wouln´t go beyond the foot of out stairs. Perfect for those enjoying winds of 65kmph.
Puerto Madryn
Sunday 21st November
We arrived late afternoon after 12 hour bus and took a taxi to the Hi Patagonia Hostel and were offered a cup of coffee by Gaston the owner. Nice man. Wins prizes for running hostels! We booked car for 4 days at his recommendation (225678 kms on the clock) and booked hotels/hostals in Puerto Piramides (Peninsular Valdes) and Trelew. Hostelworld has no entries for these places. We also booked for whale watching at Puerto Piramedes and dolphin watching at Puerto Rawson.
Monday 22nd November
We drove out to Peninsular Valdes and Puerto Piramides (PP) , stopping at the nice new visitor cntre and paying our entrance fees to the National Park. There were lots and lots of guanacos on the way (they can jump the fences with ease) and we checked into "the Paradise" and took the sunset whale watching cruise. It was very good with lots of whales and babies. After two hours of watching we went back to the hotel for huge amounts of lenguado (sole) and salmon. Some times its tough being aged backpackers but we manage somehow!
Disgrace and shame on the National Park and World Heritage Site for allowing the following...
We drove to Punta Delgado, 90 kms on a dirt road to see dolphins but prior to the dolphins there is a private road owned by a hotel and these people have also blocked the public road. You either order a lunch or similar at the hotel or have a private guide (price is the same, 150 Argentine pesos per person) and then you can see the dolphins. Exactly the same is true if you drive north to Punte del Norte and turn off left before reaching it to another penguin beach. As you can imagine, I was very polite to these people (commercial scum) and only accused them of being bandits and a disgrace to Peninsular Valdes. Needless to say we did not pay and watched penguins at other places for free. These people use the cruise ships customers into Puerto Madryn as punters and they are whisked out by coach to see the dolphins and don´t know any difference.
Tuesday 23rd November
Drove out to Punta del Norte on Peninsular Valdes which was marvellous and free! Lots of elephant seals and a nice cafeteria where we had a picnic. People are kept a sensible distance from the seals so everything is perfectly natural. We then drove south down the coast and saw two penguin colonies and more elephant seals. Then on to a nature centre whose name escapes me but had a coffee ship and a 5 km nature walk along the cliffs. Tired but happy we drove back on the dirt roads the 100 km back to Puerto Piramedes.
Robbers and Rip offs
Hanne booked "the Paradise" at Puerto Pirimedes for us on the phone ( no internet booking possible anywhere on Peninsular Valdes!) and was quoted a rate of 150 per day for a double en suite. Fine. Not expensive. However, when we came to pay the place said yes, 150 US Dollars per Day which is 4 times the original rate!!!!! We didn´t argue and I politely accused them of being very dishonest people. If you know anybody going to Peninsular Valdes tell them this story!!!!
Wednesday 24th November
We drove down to Trelew (pueblo of Lewis indeed to goodness!) and on the way took the dirt coastal road back to Puerto Madryn ( Good hit Steffen) and saw a mother and baby whale at the centre at Punto Flecha. We wandered around Trelew looking for a restaurant and managed to find Sugar. It has no name anywhere except on the menu. Don´t think people eat out much in this part of the world.
Thursday 25th November (Happy birthday to me)
We drove down to Puerto Rawson for the dolphin watching which was outstanding. They are so fast in the water and swim in front of the boats no matter how fast the boats go. They are almost tame in that it is quite possible to have a little touch in the water.
Down to Punto Tombo on the paved roads except for the last 22km. Absolutely wonderful. So many of the little buggars everywhere (80,000 to be more or less exact) and they are so cute. You cannot walk among them now which is probably for the best but there are elevated walkways for people so the residents can walk to and from the beach, up to 1 km, without being bothered by people. Very modest entrance fee and a nice cafe. Throw in guanacos and choiques (rheas) and some very small rodents whose name is lost for the moment and you have a feast of wild life. I bought a green Punto Tombo hat which I wear with pride!
We drove back to Puerto Madryn for a birthday BBQ which Gaston the owner had organised with all of the people from the hostel while we were away and enjoyed some Argentinian fizz!
Friday 26th/Saturday 27th November
We wandered around Puerto Madryn and went to the ECO centre some 3kms along the beach. We had had unflattering reports about Puerto Madryn but we can truly say that we enjoyed it very much downtown by the beach. It is always windy and a walk along the very long pier blows all cobwebs away. The pier also hosts some sea lions. The outskirts are like all Argentine towns (being polite, scruffy)
We arrived late afternoon after 12 hour bus and took a taxi to the Hi Patagonia Hostel and were offered a cup of coffee by Gaston the owner. Nice man. Wins prizes for running hostels! We booked car for 4 days at his recommendation (225678 kms on the clock) and booked hotels/hostals in Puerto Piramides (Peninsular Valdes) and Trelew. Hostelworld has no entries for these places. We also booked for whale watching at Puerto Piramedes and dolphin watching at Puerto Rawson.
Monday 22nd November
We drove out to Peninsular Valdes and Puerto Piramides (PP) , stopping at the nice new visitor cntre and paying our entrance fees to the National Park. There were lots and lots of guanacos on the way (they can jump the fences with ease) and we checked into "the Paradise" and took the sunset whale watching cruise. It was very good with lots of whales and babies. After two hours of watching we went back to the hotel for huge amounts of lenguado (sole) and salmon. Some times its tough being aged backpackers but we manage somehow!
Disgrace and shame on the National Park and World Heritage Site for allowing the following...
We drove to Punta Delgado, 90 kms on a dirt road to see dolphins but prior to the dolphins there is a private road owned by a hotel and these people have also blocked the public road. You either order a lunch or similar at the hotel or have a private guide (price is the same, 150 Argentine pesos per person) and then you can see the dolphins. Exactly the same is true if you drive north to Punte del Norte and turn off left before reaching it to another penguin beach. As you can imagine, I was very polite to these people (commercial scum) and only accused them of being bandits and a disgrace to Peninsular Valdes. Needless to say we did not pay and watched penguins at other places for free. These people use the cruise ships customers into Puerto Madryn as punters and they are whisked out by coach to see the dolphins and don´t know any difference.
Tuesday 23rd November
Drove out to Punta del Norte on Peninsular Valdes which was marvellous and free! Lots of elephant seals and a nice cafeteria where we had a picnic. People are kept a sensible distance from the seals so everything is perfectly natural. We then drove south down the coast and saw two penguin colonies and more elephant seals. Then on to a nature centre whose name escapes me but had a coffee ship and a 5 km nature walk along the cliffs. Tired but happy we drove back on the dirt roads the 100 km back to Puerto Piramedes.
Robbers and Rip offs
Hanne booked "the Paradise" at Puerto Pirimedes for us on the phone ( no internet booking possible anywhere on Peninsular Valdes!) and was quoted a rate of 150 per day for a double en suite. Fine. Not expensive. However, when we came to pay the place said yes, 150 US Dollars per Day which is 4 times the original rate!!!!! We didn´t argue and I politely accused them of being very dishonest people. If you know anybody going to Peninsular Valdes tell them this story!!!!
Wednesday 24th November
We drove down to Trelew (pueblo of Lewis indeed to goodness!) and on the way took the dirt coastal road back to Puerto Madryn ( Good hit Steffen) and saw a mother and baby whale at the centre at Punto Flecha. We wandered around Trelew looking for a restaurant and managed to find Sugar. It has no name anywhere except on the menu. Don´t think people eat out much in this part of the world.
Thursday 25th November (Happy birthday to me)
We drove down to Puerto Rawson for the dolphin watching which was outstanding. They are so fast in the water and swim in front of the boats no matter how fast the boats go. They are almost tame in that it is quite possible to have a little touch in the water.
Down to Punto Tombo on the paved roads except for the last 22km. Absolutely wonderful. So many of the little buggars everywhere (80,000 to be more or less exact) and they are so cute. You cannot walk among them now which is probably for the best but there are elevated walkways for people so the residents can walk to and from the beach, up to 1 km, without being bothered by people. Very modest entrance fee and a nice cafe. Throw in guanacos and choiques (rheas) and some very small rodents whose name is lost for the moment and you have a feast of wild life. I bought a green Punto Tombo hat which I wear with pride!
We drove back to Puerto Madryn for a birthday BBQ which Gaston the owner had organised with all of the people from the hostel while we were away and enjoyed some Argentinian fizz!
Friday 26th/Saturday 27th November
We wandered around Puerto Madryn and went to the ECO centre some 3kms along the beach. We had had unflattering reports about Puerto Madryn but we can truly say that we enjoyed it very much downtown by the beach. It is always windy and a walk along the very long pier blows all cobwebs away. The pier also hosts some sea lions. The outskirts are like all Argentine towns (being polite, scruffy)
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