Tuesday 16th November-Saturday 20th November
On Tuesday 16th we arrived in Cordoba from SM de Tucuman at 07.30. A taxi to Hanne´s flat found her fast asleep at about 8am. No change there then!
Basic housekeeping took place like washing fleeces ( 2 months and stiff with travel dust) and all washable clothes. Dinner has taken place at Junior B, inside because it was zipping down with rain. The increase in prices (large) since last time was duly noted. I cannot understand how Argentinians cope. Today the flat door jammed and a locksmith was called. A new lock and three new keys were provided with two visits to the flat involved. The bill was 100 pesos or GBP16. With such low prices (and wages corresponding) I cannot see how anybody affords the restaurant (and other) prices which are not cheap. Junior B was full last night. Personal debt must be the only answer.
An amusing anecdote. Hanne booked, on the phone, a hostal on Peninsular Valdes (There are now lots of them) and they wanted my credit card details, which were duly provided. When asked if we could pay by credit card the answer was, oh no, we only take cash!!! Also there is now an ATM on Peninsular Valdes which regularly runs out of cash BUT is refilled every Monday.
Just for good measure I asked for quotes from 3 car hire companies by email. The best price was from Wild Skies Rentacar who do take credit cards but offered 10% discount for cash!
We have unloaded lots of items which will not be needed on the next leg of the trip which starts on Saturday (tomorrow) with a 20 hour bus trip to Puerto Madryn. We plan to be back at base camp in Cordoba for the last week in January prior to the trip north to Iguasu, Brazil and Uruguay. Hanne is off to UK on Sunday and will meet up with us in El Calafate on 22nd December for Christmas. The New Year venue has not yet been sorted.
Cordoba (Hanne´s part) remains full of young people. We are going to Mandarina tonight for a farewell dinner.
Frommer's Review This eclectic restaurant, along the pedestrian walkway Obispo Trejo, is a cornucopia of surreal and occasionally sexual artwork. The city's cultural crowd comes for salads, pizzas, and pastas and later for wines, whiskeys, and wacky ..."
God alone knows what drugs this reviewer was on because the Mandarina we go to is nothing like this!
The next blog entry will be from Patagonia....
Friday 19 November 2010
Cafayate
Saturday 13th November
Our hostal, Ruta 40 ( it is on Ruta 40 which goes way south in Argentina) has a sign outside KM4132. That is the distance to Ushuaia on Tierra del Fuego. Cafayate is quite an upmarket sort of place with no shoe shine boys and 1 beggar. We took a walk out of town to a hill mirador (viewpoint). On the way we met some men digging a hole. Of course I asked if it was for the mother in law, which they though was very funny, but no, it was for a cow they were going to cook with hot timbers and then covered up. It would be ready the next day.
There was a vintage car rally in town. Lots of really old cars in fantastic condition.
Sunday 14th November
We took a taxi for the 7 kms out to a camp site and the river Colorado and, just like Lise and Steffen said, a guide appeared and took us on the gorge climb. It was very hard work and I gave up after 1 hour and 40 minutes. Ianne went off with the guide and came back 90 minutes later having reached the waterfalls.
We were too tired to walk back so the guide got us a lift with a young couple from Salta in their car. Nice people. We had lunch in the town square at 16.30 and pottered about until bed time.
Monday 15th November
We wandered round town and bought more presents. Now we have presents for everybody and can relax a little. We bought a big bag in Bolivia just for presents and now it is not big enough. We cannot get a bus directly to Cordoba from Cafayate, we have to go via San Miguel de Tucuman so we caught the bus at 14.00 and arrived promply at 19.00. There was a fantastic green gorge for lots of miles on the way down but I didn´t catch the name.
We are now experts at passing time at Bus Terminii so we had a very greasy dinner and then made the time pass until 23.00 for our bus to Cordoba.
Our hostal, Ruta 40 ( it is on Ruta 40 which goes way south in Argentina) has a sign outside KM4132. That is the distance to Ushuaia on Tierra del Fuego. Cafayate is quite an upmarket sort of place with no shoe shine boys and 1 beggar. We took a walk out of town to a hill mirador (viewpoint). On the way we met some men digging a hole. Of course I asked if it was for the mother in law, which they though was very funny, but no, it was for a cow they were going to cook with hot timbers and then covered up. It would be ready the next day.
There was a vintage car rally in town. Lots of really old cars in fantastic condition.
Sunday 14th November
We took a taxi for the 7 kms out to a camp site and the river Colorado and, just like Lise and Steffen said, a guide appeared and took us on the gorge climb. It was very hard work and I gave up after 1 hour and 40 minutes. Ianne went off with the guide and came back 90 minutes later having reached the waterfalls.
We were too tired to walk back so the guide got us a lift with a young couple from Salta in their car. Nice people. We had lunch in the town square at 16.30 and pottered about until bed time.
Monday 15th November
We wandered round town and bought more presents. Now we have presents for everybody and can relax a little. We bought a big bag in Bolivia just for presents and now it is not big enough. We cannot get a bus directly to Cordoba from Cafayate, we have to go via San Miguel de Tucuman so we caught the bus at 14.00 and arrived promply at 19.00. There was a fantastic green gorge for lots of miles on the way down but I didn´t catch the name.
We are now experts at passing time at Bus Terminii so we had a very greasy dinner and then made the time pass until 23.00 for our bus to Cordoba.
Salta
Thursday 11th November
We took the 10.00 bus for the 2 hour trip to Salta and checked into the very centrally located Hostal Cathedral. Very nice room and it was such a shame about the dragon on reception. Salta is really nice and we wandered around and went on the gondola up to San Bernado. We were going to a show ( as recommended by Lise) but I had "Bolivian Revenge" and could not venture far from a toilet so the show had to wait.
Friday 12th November
We wandered around Salta and sat in the main square and Marianne went to the museum of high altitude and I people watched in the square. We took the 17.00 bus to Cafayate and arrived at 21.00. The last hour of the journey is nice in the gorge but the first 3 hours are boring.
We took the 10.00 bus for the 2 hour trip to Salta and checked into the very centrally located Hostal Cathedral. Very nice room and it was such a shame about the dragon on reception. Salta is really nice and we wandered around and went on the gondola up to San Bernado. We were going to a show ( as recommended by Lise) but I had "Bolivian Revenge" and could not venture far from a toilet so the show had to wait.
Friday 12th November
We wandered around Salta and sat in the main square and Marianne went to the museum of high altitude and I people watched in the square. We took the 17.00 bus to Cafayate and arrived at 21.00. The last hour of the journey is nice in the gorge but the first 3 hours are boring.
San Salvador de Jujuy
Wednesday 10th November
CULTURE SHOCK!!!!
No bowler hats to be seen. People sitting in roadside cafes taking coffee. Very few indigenous looking people. Some people well over 1.90CM tall and very few oompaloompas. Brand new 4x4 pick up trucks cruising the main street. This was Argentina and not Bolivia. The prices also reflected the change of country!
Jujuy has few outstanding features and one of them is the town square. This was absolutely full of tents because the civil service union was on strike and they proceeded to march round the town. We went in the other direction.
CULTURE SHOCK!!!!
No bowler hats to be seen. People sitting in roadside cafes taking coffee. Very few indigenous looking people. Some people well over 1.90CM tall and very few oompaloompas. Brand new 4x4 pick up trucks cruising the main street. This was Argentina and not Bolivia. The prices also reflected the change of country!
Jujuy has few outstanding features and one of them is the town square. This was absolutely full of tents because the civil service union was on strike and they proceeded to march round the town. We went in the other direction.
Tupiza
Monday 8th November
Near here is where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid met their maker, al least according to one version. I did a lot of internetting and managed a little siesta of 3 hours. The Salar had worn me out. Marianne wandered round town and saw the train which goes to the border and north. Weather warm and short pant worn. We went to the bus depot to try and sort out tickets for the journey south to Argentina. We refused an offer from a ticket tout for a direct journey to San Salvador de Jujuy which involved a bus coming from La Paz. Clearly he was on more than coca tea! Not a chance.
We settled for a ticket to Villazon, the Bolivian border town and worked out that, with a bit of luck and a fair wind we could catch the 15.11 from La Quiaca (Argentine border) to SS de Jujuy.
Tuesday 9th November
We had the oldest bus in the world to the border terminal. The road is also in a state of renewal so the journey was quite bone shaking. Nevertheless we arrived on time and walked the 7 blocks in the heat to the border. We went through customs and immigration very quickly and there were no forms to fill in. We took a taxi to the bus terminal at La Quiaca. The Balut bus 15.10 to SS de Jujuy was fully booked so we took the 15.11 to the same destination. The original bus should have taken 5 hours and ours 6 hours. As it turned out the 15.10 got stopped at 2 road blocks ( everybody out and full luggage search (drugs from Bolivia)) and we arrived first at about 21.00.
We took a taxi to Wok Yahi hostel ( it means happy home in Quechwa).
Near here is where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid met their maker, al least according to one version. I did a lot of internetting and managed a little siesta of 3 hours. The Salar had worn me out. Marianne wandered round town and saw the train which goes to the border and north. Weather warm and short pant worn. We went to the bus depot to try and sort out tickets for the journey south to Argentina. We refused an offer from a ticket tout for a direct journey to San Salvador de Jujuy which involved a bus coming from La Paz. Clearly he was on more than coca tea! Not a chance.
We settled for a ticket to Villazon, the Bolivian border town and worked out that, with a bit of luck and a fair wind we could catch the 15.11 from La Quiaca (Argentine border) to SS de Jujuy.
Tuesday 9th November
We had the oldest bus in the world to the border terminal. The road is also in a state of renewal so the journey was quite bone shaking. Nevertheless we arrived on time and walked the 7 blocks in the heat to the border. We went through customs and immigration very quickly and there were no forms to fill in. We took a taxi to the bus terminal at La Quiaca. The Balut bus 15.10 to SS de Jujuy was fully booked so we took the 15.11 to the same destination. The original bus should have taken 5 hours and ours 6 hours. As it turned out the 15.10 got stopped at 2 road blocks ( everybody out and full luggage search (drugs from Bolivia)) and we arrived first at about 21.00.
We took a taxi to Wok Yahi hostel ( it means happy home in Quechwa).
Uyuni (3650 metres asl), the Salar and South of the Salar
Wednesday 3rd November
The bus left at 11.30 punto, cramped, full and all luggage on the top of the bus under a tarpaulin. Toilet on board, no chance. Very nice journey again through the mountains and we duly arrived at Uyuni at 18.00 and found the Piedra Blanca Backpackers hostal. Our room was damp and, with the altitude, it made breathing very difficult. We found the Red Planet Expeditions following a recommendation from the hostal owners and after some negotiation we signed up for a 4 day, 3 night tour ending in Tupiza, with driver and English speaking guide. Sleeping bags would be provided as would hot water bottles (3). The whole trip was to be about 1200 km. We paid a deposit and had to hope that the one ATM in Uyuni still had some money. Despite a queue to use it there was still some money left so we were ok!
You really would not want to stay in Uyuni any longer than was necessary and the only reason to visit is the Salar (Salt Flat). A new International Airport has started being built, scheduled to be finished this year. At the current rate of progress add 10 years.
Thursday 4th November
At 11.00 we set off in a 13 year old, but immaculately maintained Toyota Land Cruiser 4 x 4 automatic with a mph speed clock with Alex the driver and Oscar the guide. 4 huge jerry cans full of petrol were on the roof and all of the luggage was in the back (normally where 3 more people go). We went out onto the Salar via Alex´s house and past where the new airport is being built.
First stop was the train graveyard where all of the trains were rusting away.
http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/jeffsadventures/jeffswalkabout/1150580940/tpod.html
There is still one line working, for goods only to, we think, Antofogasta in Chile.
We went across the Salar to Colchani for lunch where we saw how the salt was gathered , dried and packed for sale.
http://www.americasol.net/bolivia/sal_en_colchani/index_english.html
Then we were off to the Ojos de Salar and past the Hoteles de Sal (hotels made of salt) to the Isla Incahuasi for a 360 degree view of the Salar (fantastic). Some of the cactii(?) were 900 plus years old.
http://www.google.com.ar/images?hl=es&q=hoteles+de+sal+uyuni&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=oYfmTPaWF8T68AaS4Y3jDA&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=2&ved=0CDIQsAQwAQ&biw=1430&bih=663
http://www.google.com.ar/images?um=1&hl=es&biw=1430&bih=663&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=isla+incahuasi+uyuni&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=
Next was the visit to Volcan Tunupa, the most beautiful volcano in the area. Legend has it that she spurned the advances of the male volcanos but one night she got a visit from one and had a baby boy volcano. The male volcano took the little volcano with him and Tunupa was so distraught that she erupted and her milk mixed with her tears and formed the Salar. Gets my vote.
http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Archivo:Volc%C3%A1n_Tunupa_-_Oruro_-_Bolivia.jpg
The Salar is a magical place with the white contrasting with the blue of the sky and the journey continued to Puerto Chuvica and our first salt hotel. We had dinner with a bottle of Bolivian vino collapso and slept very well and were not cold at all. Salt furniture and salt beds are fine. The only problem with salt walls is that their sound insulation capabilities are zero and you could hear a mouse fart in the next room!
http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/page/?o=RrzKj&page_id=170036&v=JR
This entry is here so that you can see what the Salt Hotel looks like. I take no responsibility for the looney tunes who are bicycling on the Saltar!
Friday 5th November (Day 2)
The first place off the Salar was San Juan with an excellent small museum with English translations. Also we visited a pre Inca graveyard with bodies buried in stone hills.
http://www.travelpod.com/travel-photo/vonkaz29/1/1266950555/the-necropolis-in-san-juan.jpg/tpod.html
Then a long journey with fantastic mountains and volcanos to Ollague, a semi live (?) volcano. Not quite sure how you get a semi live one but that is what the guide called it.
http://www.panoramio.com/photo/15302311
We then visited lots of lagunas , Hedionda and the Arbol de Piedra and rock formations in the desert.
http://www.google.com.ar/images?hl=es&q=laguna+hedionda&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=647mTOHULYH_8Ab79dnCCQ&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CCQQsAQwAA&biw=1430&bih=663
We ended up near Laguna Colorada (National Park) and slept at 4200 metres in a primitive hut! We had 8 blankets, a sleeping bag each and the hot water bottles and went to bed with all clothes on. Showers? Hot water? Deam on! It was very windy and the temperature outside in the morning was -10 (without the wind chill).
Saturday 6th November (Day 3)
Off to Laguna Colorada with millions of flamingos.
http://www.google.com.ar/images?um=1&hl=es&biw=1430&bih=663&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=laguna+colorada&aq=f&aqi=g2&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=
Then up to Sol de Manaña (4712 metres asl) for fumaroles
http://www.trekearth.com/gallery/South_America/Bolivia/South/Potosi/Quetena_Grande/photo975302.htm
and then to Aguas Thermales where one could bathe in a hot spring. No takers in our camp.
http://www.minube.com/fotos/rincon/82562/406991
Then off to Laguna Salada and Laguna Verde both in the shadow of Volcan Licancabur (5920 metres asl)
http://www.google.com.ar/images?hl=es&q=laguna+verde,+bolivia&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=mZnmTJW_KY-q8Ab6iMnBDA&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CCAQsAQwAA&biw=1430&bih=663
Next came the Desierto de Dali with very weird rock formations in the desert.
http://www.google.com.ar/images?um=1&hl=es&biw=1430&bih=663&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=desierto+de+Dali&btnG=Buscar&aq=f&aqi=g1&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=
We had a picnic in a town square, the name of which totally eludes me but the one horse had left a long time ago and then we pushed on to San Antonio de Lipez and went through the ghost town ( see picture). Rumour has it that the priest told the villagers that he needed gold from them to make a gold bell. When he got the gold he did a runner and was never seen again. Then wierd things started to happen in the village so everybody left. Not sure when all of this happened but a long time ago.
http://www.viajeros.com/fotos/la-expedicion-al-salar-a-a-a-1a-a-etapa-entre-el-desierto-y-la-altura/260736
We slept in San Antonio which was high but not freezing. Marianne took no chances and had a sleeping bag and two hot water bottles.
Sunday 7th November( Day 4)
We left at 08.00 and had a fantastic drive through mountains, fords, rivers with lots of llamas and most at very high altitude. We arrived Tupiza mid afternoon and checked into the Valle Hermosa hostel. Weather very warm.
We saw a parade in the square in the evening with music and dancing. Miss Bolivia and entourage were in the parade. Tupiza does not possess an ATM!
The 4 day trip was absolutely fantastic and we would totally recommend it to everybody. It was bloody cold 1 night but with sleeping bags and hot water bottles we managed fine.
It seemed that the only restaurants open were Italian, so we had an Italian dinner.
The bus left at 11.30 punto, cramped, full and all luggage on the top of the bus under a tarpaulin. Toilet on board, no chance. Very nice journey again through the mountains and we duly arrived at Uyuni at 18.00 and found the Piedra Blanca Backpackers hostal. Our room was damp and, with the altitude, it made breathing very difficult. We found the Red Planet Expeditions following a recommendation from the hostal owners and after some negotiation we signed up for a 4 day, 3 night tour ending in Tupiza, with driver and English speaking guide. Sleeping bags would be provided as would hot water bottles (3). The whole trip was to be about 1200 km. We paid a deposit and had to hope that the one ATM in Uyuni still had some money. Despite a queue to use it there was still some money left so we were ok!
You really would not want to stay in Uyuni any longer than was necessary and the only reason to visit is the Salar (Salt Flat). A new International Airport has started being built, scheduled to be finished this year. At the current rate of progress add 10 years.
Thursday 4th November
At 11.00 we set off in a 13 year old, but immaculately maintained Toyota Land Cruiser 4 x 4 automatic with a mph speed clock with Alex the driver and Oscar the guide. 4 huge jerry cans full of petrol were on the roof and all of the luggage was in the back (normally where 3 more people go). We went out onto the Salar via Alex´s house and past where the new airport is being built.
First stop was the train graveyard where all of the trains were rusting away.
http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/jeffsadventures/jeffswalkabout/1150580940/tpod.html
There is still one line working, for goods only to, we think, Antofogasta in Chile.
We went across the Salar to Colchani for lunch where we saw how the salt was gathered , dried and packed for sale.
http://www.americasol.net/bolivia/sal_en_colchani/index_english.html
Then we were off to the Ojos de Salar and past the Hoteles de Sal (hotels made of salt) to the Isla Incahuasi for a 360 degree view of the Salar (fantastic). Some of the cactii(?) were 900 plus years old.
http://www.google.com.ar/images?hl=es&q=hoteles+de+sal+uyuni&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=oYfmTPaWF8T68AaS4Y3jDA&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=2&ved=0CDIQsAQwAQ&biw=1430&bih=663
http://www.google.com.ar/images?um=1&hl=es&biw=1430&bih=663&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=isla+incahuasi+uyuni&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=
Next was the visit to Volcan Tunupa, the most beautiful volcano in the area. Legend has it that she spurned the advances of the male volcanos but one night she got a visit from one and had a baby boy volcano. The male volcano took the little volcano with him and Tunupa was so distraught that she erupted and her milk mixed with her tears and formed the Salar. Gets my vote.
http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Archivo:Volc%C3%A1n_Tunupa_-_Oruro_-_Bolivia.jpg
The Salar is a magical place with the white contrasting with the blue of the sky and the journey continued to Puerto Chuvica and our first salt hotel. We had dinner with a bottle of Bolivian vino collapso and slept very well and were not cold at all. Salt furniture and salt beds are fine. The only problem with salt walls is that their sound insulation capabilities are zero and you could hear a mouse fart in the next room!
http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/page/?o=RrzKj&page_id=170036&v=JR
This entry is here so that you can see what the Salt Hotel looks like. I take no responsibility for the looney tunes who are bicycling on the Saltar!
Friday 5th November (Day 2)
The first place off the Salar was San Juan with an excellent small museum with English translations. Also we visited a pre Inca graveyard with bodies buried in stone hills.
http://www.travelpod.com/travel-photo/vonkaz29/1/1266950555/the-necropolis-in-san-juan.jpg/tpod.html
Then a long journey with fantastic mountains and volcanos to Ollague, a semi live (?) volcano. Not quite sure how you get a semi live one but that is what the guide called it.
http://www.panoramio.com/photo/15302311
We then visited lots of lagunas , Hedionda and the Arbol de Piedra and rock formations in the desert.
http://www.google.com.ar/images?hl=es&q=laguna+hedionda&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=647mTOHULYH_8Ab79dnCCQ&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CCQQsAQwAA&biw=1430&bih=663
We ended up near Laguna Colorada (National Park) and slept at 4200 metres in a primitive hut! We had 8 blankets, a sleeping bag each and the hot water bottles and went to bed with all clothes on. Showers? Hot water? Deam on! It was very windy and the temperature outside in the morning was -10 (without the wind chill).
Saturday 6th November (Day 3)
Off to Laguna Colorada with millions of flamingos.
http://www.google.com.ar/images?um=1&hl=es&biw=1430&bih=663&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=laguna+colorada&aq=f&aqi=g2&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=
Then up to Sol de Manaña (4712 metres asl) for fumaroles
http://www.trekearth.com/gallery/South_America/Bolivia/South/Potosi/Quetena_Grande/photo975302.htm
and then to Aguas Thermales where one could bathe in a hot spring. No takers in our camp.
http://www.minube.com/fotos/rincon/82562/406991
Then off to Laguna Salada and Laguna Verde both in the shadow of Volcan Licancabur (5920 metres asl)
http://www.google.com.ar/images?hl=es&q=laguna+verde,+bolivia&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=mZnmTJW_KY-q8Ab6iMnBDA&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CCAQsAQwAA&biw=1430&bih=663
Next came the Desierto de Dali with very weird rock formations in the desert.
http://www.google.com.ar/images?um=1&hl=es&biw=1430&bih=663&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=desierto+de+Dali&btnG=Buscar&aq=f&aqi=g1&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=
We had a picnic in a town square, the name of which totally eludes me but the one horse had left a long time ago and then we pushed on to San Antonio de Lipez and went through the ghost town ( see picture). Rumour has it that the priest told the villagers that he needed gold from them to make a gold bell. When he got the gold he did a runner and was never seen again. Then wierd things started to happen in the village so everybody left. Not sure when all of this happened but a long time ago.
http://www.viajeros.com/fotos/la-expedicion-al-salar-a-a-a-1a-a-etapa-entre-el-desierto-y-la-altura/260736
We slept in San Antonio which was high but not freezing. Marianne took no chances and had a sleeping bag and two hot water bottles.
Sunday 7th November( Day 4)
We left at 08.00 and had a fantastic drive through mountains, fords, rivers with lots of llamas and most at very high altitude. We arrived Tupiza mid afternoon and checked into the Valle Hermosa hostel. Weather very warm.
We saw a parade in the square in the evening with music and dancing. Miss Bolivia and entourage were in the parade. Tupiza does not possess an ATM!
The 4 day trip was absolutely fantastic and we would totally recommend it to everybody. It was bloody cold 1 night but with sleeping bags and hot water bottles we managed fine.
It seemed that the only restaurants open were Italian, so we had an Italian dinner.
Potosi (4067 metres asl)
Monday 1st November
The 3 hour journey to Potosi from Sucre is wonderful as you travel through very high mountains. The coach was old, very little sitting room and packed. The approach to Potosi is fantastic if you are a fan of open cast mining but total shite if you are not. 95% of Potosi is like this and the 5% downtown is really lovely with lots of old churches and buildings. Like La Paz, Potosi is on a steep slope.
We were offered lunch on the street by two old biddies and went up to the second floor. We were the only customers, tele on. Our 4 course lunch cost GBP1.50 and we were not offered a drink! It was so cold that we went back to the HI Hotel to get the water and wind proofs. Did I mention that we are Hostelling International members. Discount of 10% at any HI establishment. We wandered around and managed to get a machine coffee on the square and it was good.
There are four bus stations in Potosi. Buenos Aires, population 15 million, has one.To find out where the bus station was for Uyuni, our next stop, we walked there using a very dodgy map provided by the hotel. Having got to the bus station, same quality as Valparaiso bus station for crime probability, we were informed that although we had purchased and paid for a ticket for the next day (in Sucre after a phone call), we would not be going anywhere the next day because it was a holiday and no buses were running. I was mildly displeased with this news as it also meant that we would lose the money for the next nights hostel, booked in advance.
Being hardy travellers we saaid "ho, hum" and booked the bus for the following day, rebooked our hotel in Potosi for another night and rebooked the hostal in Uyuni. The weather promises to be warmer tomorrow. It needs to be because it is bloody cold here right now.
Potosi claims to have the highest brewery in the world and proudly says so on all of its beer products, which are OK, by the way. The fact that the new brewery in El Alto (La Paz) sits at 4167 metres asl ,100 metres higher than Potosi, seems to have escaped their attention.
In the Copa de Libertadores (South American equivalent to the European Cup) teams do not like playing in Potosi because the lowland teams have no time to get acclimatised to the altitude and very few if any get a result there.
Whereas you can read about the silver mines in Potosi, and the town is still dominated by the hill where the mines are, a couple of facts still amaze. It is estimated that 8,000,000 (yes 8 million) slaves died while mining silver. Miners today have a life expectancy of 39 years in the silver mines. If you take a tour to the mines ( at your own risk, no insurance) you are offered a stick of dynamite to light and explode. Mind numbing!
http://www.google.com.ar/images?hl=es&q=potosi+bolivia&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=hm3mTOPLHo-t8Abxg-nIDA&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=4&ved=0CD8QsAQwAw&biw=1427&bih=663
Tuesday 2nd November
It is warmer in Potosi today and it is All Souls Day, a national holiday so everything is closed. We wandered around, having another coffee at the cafe on the square ( only travellers, no locals) and I spent far too long in an Internet cafe getting the blog up to date. We took dinner at a nice restaurant recommended by an English guy that we kept bumping into. Most restaurants were closed.
We can walk in Potosi, no problem, but I find that I still puff in the mornings. We need to buy water and lunch for the bus trip to Uyuni (6 1/2 hours tomorrow).
The 3 hour journey to Potosi from Sucre is wonderful as you travel through very high mountains. The coach was old, very little sitting room and packed. The approach to Potosi is fantastic if you are a fan of open cast mining but total shite if you are not. 95% of Potosi is like this and the 5% downtown is really lovely with lots of old churches and buildings. Like La Paz, Potosi is on a steep slope.
We were offered lunch on the street by two old biddies and went up to the second floor. We were the only customers, tele on. Our 4 course lunch cost GBP1.50 and we were not offered a drink! It was so cold that we went back to the HI Hotel to get the water and wind proofs. Did I mention that we are Hostelling International members. Discount of 10% at any HI establishment. We wandered around and managed to get a machine coffee on the square and it was good.
There are four bus stations in Potosi. Buenos Aires, population 15 million, has one.To find out where the bus station was for Uyuni, our next stop, we walked there using a very dodgy map provided by the hotel. Having got to the bus station, same quality as Valparaiso bus station for crime probability, we were informed that although we had purchased and paid for a ticket for the next day (in Sucre after a phone call), we would not be going anywhere the next day because it was a holiday and no buses were running. I was mildly displeased with this news as it also meant that we would lose the money for the next nights hostel, booked in advance.
Being hardy travellers we saaid "ho, hum" and booked the bus for the following day, rebooked our hotel in Potosi for another night and rebooked the hostal in Uyuni. The weather promises to be warmer tomorrow. It needs to be because it is bloody cold here right now.
Potosi claims to have the highest brewery in the world and proudly says so on all of its beer products, which are OK, by the way. The fact that the new brewery in El Alto (La Paz) sits at 4167 metres asl ,100 metres higher than Potosi, seems to have escaped their attention.
In the Copa de Libertadores (South American equivalent to the European Cup) teams do not like playing in Potosi because the lowland teams have no time to get acclimatised to the altitude and very few if any get a result there.
Whereas you can read about the silver mines in Potosi, and the town is still dominated by the hill where the mines are, a couple of facts still amaze. It is estimated that 8,000,000 (yes 8 million) slaves died while mining silver. Miners today have a life expectancy of 39 years in the silver mines. If you take a tour to the mines ( at your own risk, no insurance) you are offered a stick of dynamite to light and explode. Mind numbing!
http://www.google.com.ar/images?hl=es&q=potosi+bolivia&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=hm3mTOPLHo-t8Abxg-nIDA&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=4&ved=0CD8QsAQwAw&biw=1427&bih=663
Tuesday 2nd November
It is warmer in Potosi today and it is All Souls Day, a national holiday so everything is closed. We wandered around, having another coffee at the cafe on the square ( only travellers, no locals) and I spent far too long in an Internet cafe getting the blog up to date. We took dinner at a nice restaurant recommended by an English guy that we kept bumping into. Most restaurants were closed.
We can walk in Potosi, no problem, but I find that I still puff in the mornings. We need to buy water and lunch for the bus trip to Uyuni (6 1/2 hours tomorrow).
Tuesday 2 November 2010
Sucre
Tuesday 27th October pm
At first glance the outskirts of Sucre (2750 metres asl) are the same mess as any Bolivian town but once in the centre you have magnificent colonial buildings and lovely parks and squares. There were very few bowler hats around, this not being the dress of the local inhabitants. Went to the local market, marvellous, and purchased some dinner and pan integral. Breathing not right yet but better than La Paz and I cooked dinner at our hostal La Dolce Vita.
Wednesday 27th October
The hostal is good so we decided to stay for a while and chill out. Had breakfast on the upstairs terrace and it was very warm.Talked to some Swedish girls studying Spanish and noted that I was in short pant at 09.35.
We wandered around in the main square, people watched and politely refused 4 shoe shine boys. We managed to get to the textile museum 10 minutes after it had closed for lunch, so back to the market to buy lunch. After lunch we visited the textile museum featuring indiginous weaving from around Sucre. Two ladies were weaving without a 'pattern' which seeemed difficult to me but Ianne, who has weaved or is it woven, in her time, assured me that it is not quite as difficult as it looked.
Bought some chorizo in the market and cooked up a stew with papas, tomatoes, chilies and macaroni. Talked to 2 Welsh girls and an American couple and we were in bed by 21.30.
Thursday 28th October
Slept better and didnt get up until 8.45. and the breathing was getting better.Very warm up on the terrace and everybody else seems to have had breakfast. We went to the history of dance museum featuring masks of many kinds. Purchased 2 CDs of authentic local music. We walked up to the Mirador overlooking the town with a lovely view and took lunch. The food was very fresh and very good and the total bill was Euro 6.
Very sunny and warm. I cooked dinner at the hostal for Doug and Lauren, two young people from the US and we shared some wine and beer. The Bolivian wine from Concepcion is very nice and inexpensive if you buy it in the shops. Went to bed at 22.30, latest for a long time.
Friday 29th October
Hot, hot, hot. Needed the parasol on the terrace at 08.50. We will try to stay here two more days if we can because we have heard that the students are parading with music and dance tomorrow and Sunday we could visit the famous (it is in Bolivia anyway) market at Tarabuco. We cannot stay here for the two nights in question so the hostal owners have booked us in to the French Consuls House 1 km away. He is their friend and runs a hostal as well as his Consul duties.
Went to the Casa de la Constitucion, a free museum documenting Bolivian history and the struggle for Independence which was gained in 1825. There was a plaque for Nestor Kirchner (died two days ago) on the wall commemorating a fairly recent visit. They had a very old map on the wall showing the countries at that time. Chile owned most of Argentina.
Ianne and I went to a dinner and show called Origines. We really splashed out because a ticket was 125BOBS or GBP12, a fortune in these parts. Show started at 20.15 (we got there at 19.00) and was excellent. We even managed an ice bucket for our Sauvignon Blanc. Maybe 20 dancers in total, dancing old stuff with loads of the masks and costumes we had seen previously in the museums. The show was 2 hours with a 10 minute break. Totally recommended. Then 7 local musicians suitably attired with Bolivian tackle took over. We saw the first half of their act and then decided to go back. The theatre insisted on calling a taxi, not because it was dangerous for us to walk back, but it was too far! Taxi cost GBP1 for a ten minute drive. We got back at the very late time of 23.15. Seems the clocks go back in Europe this weekend. Apparently in Bolivia they never change.
Saturday 30th October
The student parade. Apparently it is 7km long and features 35 ensembles which start out 7 minutes after each other. To cut a long story short (the time of things in Bolivia varies in accordance with the number of people consulted and reality never features) we were on the other side of town at 16.30 when we saw the first group. Very good dancing and band playing. It got cold so we went back to the hostal (at the consulate) for more clothing and caught up with the procession nearer town. It was really excellent and the dancers were putting their all into it. The costumes were fabulous. They were clearly nearly exhausted but kept at it. We went back and a thunderstorm occurred. The last 25 or so groups must have got soaked.
Sunday 31st October
We went by coach to the market at Tarabuco. I was quite disappointed by it. Although being part tourist and part local, there were not as many textiles as we had been led to believe would be there. It was nice, though, to see the locals wearing clothes we had not seen before. Pigs were carved up for sale in wheelbarrows and you got the feeling that the local people had travelled a long way to be there. Ianne had Api con buenos for breakfast . We bought lots of presents and a bag to put them in. What and for whom you will find out much later. Hehehehehe. The journey 62km took 90 minuters through the mountains and the vistas were stunning.
When we got back we discovered that there was a Harley Davidson convention in town and there were lots of Harleys and BMWs and a huge honda parked up.
We really enjoyed Sucre, the first Capital City of Bolivia and, looking back through the blog, I can see no mention of breath for the last few days. We must now be acclimatised, at last.
At first glance the outskirts of Sucre (2750 metres asl) are the same mess as any Bolivian town but once in the centre you have magnificent colonial buildings and lovely parks and squares. There were very few bowler hats around, this not being the dress of the local inhabitants. Went to the local market, marvellous, and purchased some dinner and pan integral. Breathing not right yet but better than La Paz and I cooked dinner at our hostal La Dolce Vita.
Wednesday 27th October
The hostal is good so we decided to stay for a while and chill out. Had breakfast on the upstairs terrace and it was very warm.Talked to some Swedish girls studying Spanish and noted that I was in short pant at 09.35.
We wandered around in the main square, people watched and politely refused 4 shoe shine boys. We managed to get to the textile museum 10 minutes after it had closed for lunch, so back to the market to buy lunch. After lunch we visited the textile museum featuring indiginous weaving from around Sucre. Two ladies were weaving without a 'pattern' which seeemed difficult to me but Ianne, who has weaved or is it woven, in her time, assured me that it is not quite as difficult as it looked.
Bought some chorizo in the market and cooked up a stew with papas, tomatoes, chilies and macaroni. Talked to 2 Welsh girls and an American couple and we were in bed by 21.30.
Thursday 28th October
Slept better and didnt get up until 8.45. and the breathing was getting better.Very warm up on the terrace and everybody else seems to have had breakfast. We went to the history of dance museum featuring masks of many kinds. Purchased 2 CDs of authentic local music. We walked up to the Mirador overlooking the town with a lovely view and took lunch. The food was very fresh and very good and the total bill was Euro 6.
Very sunny and warm. I cooked dinner at the hostal for Doug and Lauren, two young people from the US and we shared some wine and beer. The Bolivian wine from Concepcion is very nice and inexpensive if you buy it in the shops. Went to bed at 22.30, latest for a long time.
Friday 29th October
Hot, hot, hot. Needed the parasol on the terrace at 08.50. We will try to stay here two more days if we can because we have heard that the students are parading with music and dance tomorrow and Sunday we could visit the famous (it is in Bolivia anyway) market at Tarabuco. We cannot stay here for the two nights in question so the hostal owners have booked us in to the French Consuls House 1 km away. He is their friend and runs a hostal as well as his Consul duties.
Went to the Casa de la Constitucion, a free museum documenting Bolivian history and the struggle for Independence which was gained in 1825. There was a plaque for Nestor Kirchner (died two days ago) on the wall commemorating a fairly recent visit. They had a very old map on the wall showing the countries at that time. Chile owned most of Argentina.
Ianne and I went to a dinner and show called Origines. We really splashed out because a ticket was 125BOBS or GBP12, a fortune in these parts. Show started at 20.15 (we got there at 19.00) and was excellent. We even managed an ice bucket for our Sauvignon Blanc. Maybe 20 dancers in total, dancing old stuff with loads of the masks and costumes we had seen previously in the museums. The show was 2 hours with a 10 minute break. Totally recommended. Then 7 local musicians suitably attired with Bolivian tackle took over. We saw the first half of their act and then decided to go back. The theatre insisted on calling a taxi, not because it was dangerous for us to walk back, but it was too far! Taxi cost GBP1 for a ten minute drive. We got back at the very late time of 23.15. Seems the clocks go back in Europe this weekend. Apparently in Bolivia they never change.
Saturday 30th October
The student parade. Apparently it is 7km long and features 35 ensembles which start out 7 minutes after each other. To cut a long story short (the time of things in Bolivia varies in accordance with the number of people consulted and reality never features) we were on the other side of town at 16.30 when we saw the first group. Very good dancing and band playing. It got cold so we went back to the hostal (at the consulate) for more clothing and caught up with the procession nearer town. It was really excellent and the dancers were putting their all into it. The costumes were fabulous. They were clearly nearly exhausted but kept at it. We went back and a thunderstorm occurred. The last 25 or so groups must have got soaked.
Sunday 31st October
We went by coach to the market at Tarabuco. I was quite disappointed by it. Although being part tourist and part local, there were not as many textiles as we had been led to believe would be there. It was nice, though, to see the locals wearing clothes we had not seen before. Pigs were carved up for sale in wheelbarrows and you got the feeling that the local people had travelled a long way to be there. Ianne had Api con buenos for breakfast . We bought lots of presents and a bag to put them in. What and for whom you will find out much later. Hehehehehe. The journey 62km took 90 minuters through the mountains and the vistas were stunning.
When we got back we discovered that there was a Harley Davidson convention in town and there were lots of Harleys and BMWs and a huge honda parked up.
We really enjoyed Sucre, the first Capital City of Bolivia and, looking back through the blog, I can see no mention of breath for the last few days. We must now be acclimatised, at last.
La Paz (Again)
Monday 25th October
The hostal bus took us, for free, the 700 metres downhill to catch the bus to La Paz. Very warm day. We asked the tour operator if the bus would drop us at Hotel Saranaga. Oh yes, of course. Only complete cretinos trust these people who are marginally more (dis)honest than estate agents.
Oh ye of little faith. Not only did the bus stop there but it was the only place it did stop and there were a lot of pissed off people as a result, who wanted to go to the bus terminal. The manager welcomed us back with open arms as though we were long lost friends. Our previous room was OK at 50 Bobs but this time we went upmarket at 60 Bobs(GBP6) per person. It was difficult to know what the difference was, but we were certainly on the second floor now and the shower curtain nearly stopped the water running all over the bathroom floor and there were fewer holes in the bathroom floor. I think the major difference though, was that there was a better quality of all night coughing and snoring coming from another of the rooms on the second floor.
We went round shopping for a tablecloth for our Tavizna patio, but to no avail and we sent an email to Pepi to measure the table for us so that we didnt buy the wrong size. We were going to buy a local bag for the presents we had accumulated but Aerosur, our airline to Sucre, only allows 2 cabin bags of 7kgs each so that kicked that idea into touch.
Ianne tried on a poncho for Lise but it was decided that she would not wear such a thing in London and so that idea was abandoned. Wandering around La Paz in the evening was easier breathing wise but the fumes and milliones de gentes (loadsa people) made moving about difficult. We went to bed quite early but didnt sleep that well. We concluded we had walked up too many steep hill paths the day before and now we were paying the price.
Tuesday 26th October am
Had a little coffee at the Snack El Montes (hotel breakfast from 07.30) , altitude 3600 metres, directly opposite the Hotel and at 07.27 the traffic fumes were nearly overwhelming. In Bolivia life expectancy is 60 for men and 62 for women. You get pension and free health care from age 65. Catch 22?
Took a taxi up to the airport at El Alto (4200 metres) and weighed in the back packs at a total of 25kg. The airport is modern and very nice and contrary to the advice of Lonely Planet, April 2010, there are loads of ATMs. The Boeing 737-300 flight to Sucre left and arrived 10 minutes early, a total duration of 38 minutes and you could take any sort of liquid, in any quantity, on board. International Standards. Pah. Also a little snack was served. AeroSur is now 18 years old and flies in Europe. I will check out London to Madrid as an example. The bus from La Paz to Sucre takes 11 hours.
The hostal bus took us, for free, the 700 metres downhill to catch the bus to La Paz. Very warm day. We asked the tour operator if the bus would drop us at Hotel Saranaga. Oh yes, of course. Only complete cretinos trust these people who are marginally more (dis)honest than estate agents.
Oh ye of little faith. Not only did the bus stop there but it was the only place it did stop and there were a lot of pissed off people as a result, who wanted to go to the bus terminal. The manager welcomed us back with open arms as though we were long lost friends. Our previous room was OK at 50 Bobs but this time we went upmarket at 60 Bobs(GBP6) per person. It was difficult to know what the difference was, but we were certainly on the second floor now and the shower curtain nearly stopped the water running all over the bathroom floor and there were fewer holes in the bathroom floor. I think the major difference though, was that there was a better quality of all night coughing and snoring coming from another of the rooms on the second floor.
We went round shopping for a tablecloth for our Tavizna patio, but to no avail and we sent an email to Pepi to measure the table for us so that we didnt buy the wrong size. We were going to buy a local bag for the presents we had accumulated but Aerosur, our airline to Sucre, only allows 2 cabin bags of 7kgs each so that kicked that idea into touch.
Ianne tried on a poncho for Lise but it was decided that she would not wear such a thing in London and so that idea was abandoned. Wandering around La Paz in the evening was easier breathing wise but the fumes and milliones de gentes (loadsa people) made moving about difficult. We went to bed quite early but didnt sleep that well. We concluded we had walked up too many steep hill paths the day before and now we were paying the price.
Tuesday 26th October am
Had a little coffee at the Snack El Montes (hotel breakfast from 07.30) , altitude 3600 metres, directly opposite the Hotel and at 07.27 the traffic fumes were nearly overwhelming. In Bolivia life expectancy is 60 for men and 62 for women. You get pension and free health care from age 65. Catch 22?
Took a taxi up to the airport at El Alto (4200 metres) and weighed in the back packs at a total of 25kg. The airport is modern and very nice and contrary to the advice of Lonely Planet, April 2010, there are loads of ATMs. The Boeing 737-300 flight to Sucre left and arrived 10 minutes early, a total duration of 38 minutes and you could take any sort of liquid, in any quantity, on board. International Standards. Pah. Also a little snack was served. AeroSur is now 18 years old and flies in Europe. I will check out London to Madrid as an example. The bus from La Paz to Sucre takes 11 hours.
Copacobana and Lake Titicaca
Thursday 21 October
Breakfast at the hotel was delayed until 7.30 because the Argentine football Team, Newells Old Boys, Argie premier league were also staying.We went over the road for breakfast and were still there when the bus arrived early at 7.26 not 7.30.
When you leave El Alto, and are always very glad to, you are in green valleys with sheep farming. Due to the rain and grass it would appear to be a little bit better than subsistence farming and the buildings are both brick and adobe. All buildings and walls have Vote Evo on them.
We crossed the lake on the boat and our coach came on the barge. We then had a 1 hour spectacular drive to Copacobana and the lake. Our Hostal, Utama was two blocks up the hill and one along and the room was on a corner with views over the town and lake. This is a good place. Towels, toilet paper, a mat for the bathroom floor and a free bottle of water on the table. All this for Eur 15 for two people per night. The room even had a table, two chairs and an armchair.
We took a walk along the lake shore..not so many vistors now but will be very busy in summer. Temperatures 8 to 14 all year it says. All restaurants feature trout which are grown in hatcheries in the lake.
We hired a boat to go to the Islas Flotantes. 90 minute trip cost Eur 14. Apparently the Bolivian floating islands are for tourists like us and the Peruvian ones are the real ones. We are still struggling with the breath after La Paz. We had dinner in a restaurant with a fire. It is cold here at night. We had a thunderstorm and got a little wet going back up to the hotel as being totally out of breath. The lake is 3900 metres above sea level.
Friday 22 October
Free breakfast of pancake, jam, cornflakes, yoghurt, tea or coffee, salt biscuits, roll and a plate of scrambled eggs with ham and cheese. Sorry I forgot the toast and butter. We are taking it easy today because of the altitude. Copacobana is like San Pedro de Atacama with the number of tourists but is has paved roads and many more local people. Got the La Paz blog up to date and purchased 3 authentic CDs of Bolivian Folk Music and 2 DVDs. You will all get the chance to listen to these and admire them, ad nauseam, on our return. It says Copyright and I think they have been copied right. We are very happy walking round town and the sun is blazing.
We visited the Cathedral 1583, sorry no cactus, and saw the statue of the Black Virgin whose statue caused lots of miracles at that time when it was placed in the church. It was officially canonised in 1925 and local lore says that the lake will flood with disastrous consequences if the statue is ever moved. I do read some good guide books dont I.
We have started a new book on the most courtyards one has to cross before being able to pee pee. The Public Bano by the bus stop has 3 with a total meterage of about 40 to be walked before the call of nature can be answered.
Back at the hotel a man was typing a shipping manifest on a typewriter. Apparently some documents must be typed in Bolivia and word processed documents are not acceptable. It is year 2010. Feeling a little better with the altitude.
Saturday 23rd October
Sunny and took a 7km walk round the lake to the Bano de Inca and museum and could tell afterwards that we had done it, puff, puff. Out in the fields there were lots of photo opportunities with indiginous people working in the fields. No problem with the photo but you have to pay afterwards. We had such a large lunch that no dinner was eaten and we were in bed by 20.00
Sunday 24th October
Isla del Sol. After two hours on the boat we got off on the north of the island. We walked uphill for a very long time and it was a hard slog. Beautiful views from the heights above 400 metres and saw lots of Inca things.
http://www.google.com.bo/images?hl=es&q=isla+del+sol&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=0zDQTPreBoH88AbCtIXdBg&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=2&ved=0CBcQsAQwAQ
It took only 35 minutes to get back to the boat, downhill and we sailed back to the south of the island where the whole boat were too knackered to climb the steps to see more Inca ruins. On the way out the water was choppy but on the way back it was as calm as a mill pond. The lake is so blue and the surrounding hills are olive green. It is beautiful and one can imagine why the Incas held it in such awe.
I took a Thai curry at the Bistrot Cafe in Copacobana which took 50 minutes to arrive and did not taste anything like Thai curry. I had very bad dreams and the breathing was not good. The combination of a dodgy curry and the exertions of the day must have been to blame.
We really should have not gone from Arica, sea level to La Paz, 4000 metres but should have stopped somewhere on the way up. Anybody thinking of going to altitude take this comment on board. Slowly, slowly, catchee monkey.
Next stop is Sucre which is at a modest 2750 metres so that will be ok.
Breakfast at the hotel was delayed until 7.30 because the Argentine football Team, Newells Old Boys, Argie premier league were also staying.We went over the road for breakfast and were still there when the bus arrived early at 7.26 not 7.30.
When you leave El Alto, and are always very glad to, you are in green valleys with sheep farming. Due to the rain and grass it would appear to be a little bit better than subsistence farming and the buildings are both brick and adobe. All buildings and walls have Vote Evo on them.
We crossed the lake on the boat and our coach came on the barge. We then had a 1 hour spectacular drive to Copacobana and the lake. Our Hostal, Utama was two blocks up the hill and one along and the room was on a corner with views over the town and lake. This is a good place. Towels, toilet paper, a mat for the bathroom floor and a free bottle of water on the table. All this for Eur 15 for two people per night. The room even had a table, two chairs and an armchair.
We took a walk along the lake shore..not so many vistors now but will be very busy in summer. Temperatures 8 to 14 all year it says. All restaurants feature trout which are grown in hatcheries in the lake.
We hired a boat to go to the Islas Flotantes. 90 minute trip cost Eur 14. Apparently the Bolivian floating islands are for tourists like us and the Peruvian ones are the real ones. We are still struggling with the breath after La Paz. We had dinner in a restaurant with a fire. It is cold here at night. We had a thunderstorm and got a little wet going back up to the hotel as being totally out of breath. The lake is 3900 metres above sea level.
Friday 22 October
Free breakfast of pancake, jam, cornflakes, yoghurt, tea or coffee, salt biscuits, roll and a plate of scrambled eggs with ham and cheese. Sorry I forgot the toast and butter. We are taking it easy today because of the altitude. Copacobana is like San Pedro de Atacama with the number of tourists but is has paved roads and many more local people. Got the La Paz blog up to date and purchased 3 authentic CDs of Bolivian Folk Music and 2 DVDs. You will all get the chance to listen to these and admire them, ad nauseam, on our return. It says Copyright and I think they have been copied right. We are very happy walking round town and the sun is blazing.
We visited the Cathedral 1583, sorry no cactus, and saw the statue of the Black Virgin whose statue caused lots of miracles at that time when it was placed in the church. It was officially canonised in 1925 and local lore says that the lake will flood with disastrous consequences if the statue is ever moved. I do read some good guide books dont I.
We have started a new book on the most courtyards one has to cross before being able to pee pee. The Public Bano by the bus stop has 3 with a total meterage of about 40 to be walked before the call of nature can be answered.
Back at the hotel a man was typing a shipping manifest on a typewriter. Apparently some documents must be typed in Bolivia and word processed documents are not acceptable. It is year 2010. Feeling a little better with the altitude.
Saturday 23rd October
Sunny and took a 7km walk round the lake to the Bano de Inca and museum and could tell afterwards that we had done it, puff, puff. Out in the fields there were lots of photo opportunities with indiginous people working in the fields. No problem with the photo but you have to pay afterwards. We had such a large lunch that no dinner was eaten and we were in bed by 20.00
Sunday 24th October
Isla del Sol. After two hours on the boat we got off on the north of the island. We walked uphill for a very long time and it was a hard slog. Beautiful views from the heights above 400 metres and saw lots of Inca things.
http://www.google.com.bo/images?hl=es&q=isla+del+sol&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=0zDQTPreBoH88AbCtIXdBg&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=2&ved=0CBcQsAQwAQ
It took only 35 minutes to get back to the boat, downhill and we sailed back to the south of the island where the whole boat were too knackered to climb the steps to see more Inca ruins. On the way out the water was choppy but on the way back it was as calm as a mill pond. The lake is so blue and the surrounding hills are olive green. It is beautiful and one can imagine why the Incas held it in such awe.
I took a Thai curry at the Bistrot Cafe in Copacobana which took 50 minutes to arrive and did not taste anything like Thai curry. I had very bad dreams and the breathing was not good. The combination of a dodgy curry and the exertions of the day must have been to blame.
We really should have not gone from Arica, sea level to La Paz, 4000 metres but should have stopped somewhere on the way up. Anybody thinking of going to altitude take this comment on board. Slowly, slowly, catchee monkey.
Next stop is Sucre which is at a modest 2750 metres so that will be ok.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)