Saturday 25th December - Tuesday 28th December 2010
I went out early to get money. Only 1 ATM working, no change there! We had a late breakfast at the hostel and caught the bus at 13.00. The trip took exactly 3 1/4 hours including a 15 minute stop half way for relief and coffee. Near El Chalten ( only 25 years old) the bus stopped for us to take pictures of the mountains behind El Chalten and a long distance view of the Viedma Glacier and Lake, with blue icebergs.
At El Chalten we were welcomed into the office of the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, given a map of the trekking capabilities and a 15 minute talk on the dos and don´ts within the Parque. We found our hostel (most expensive so far on our while trip) 5 blocks up and 2 across from the bus station. The ATM is directly across the road from the bus station and had no money. There is no bank.
We took an evening stroll to the waterfall, 8 km round trip,very nice and had a super pizza for dinner on the way home. Went to bed at 23.00 tired and happy. Weather very blustery!
El Chalten only exists to cater for the needs of the trekkers in the Nacional Parque. If you don´t trek, want to ride a hire bike or ride on a horse, then do not come here. The location is sensational and it is the trekking capital of Argentina. It has lots of wooden houses, little shops, hostels and restaurants and is very small compared to El Calafate.
The next day found us walking to the mirador del Torre. A glacial valley with mountains and a glacier at the end and in the distance. We saw 2 condors briefly and it was blustery but quite warm. Although there were many walkers the trails was not crowded and we filled our water bottle from the stream. We estimate a total distance covered of 10-11km and we walked the northerly route back into town . Very steep descent and would have been very difficult to climb up and out of town. It started raining and HC went into an Internet cafe to get a message to Dave that she is OK. No mobile coverage here. Due to our exertions we had a roll for lunch and a 3 hour siesta. Excellent! We had a couple of beers and a game of cards on the hostel before dinner. The bastards in the restaurant tried to overcharge us by 20 pesos. Why do they do this! HC was left to point it out nicely. I am afraid that my method would not have been so diplomatic. Absolutely peeing down and cold on the walk back to the hostel.
Next day calm and sunny and we walked up to the Condor and Aguilar miradors. I walked to the Aguilar on my own because the walk up was steep and MC and HC needed a little rest. The viewpoint from Aguilar is over the plain to Lago Viedma ( blue icebergs) and very nice. We had lunch out for a change and my pumpkin soup was excellent. Ianne and I walked up to book horse riding for the next day and HC had an extended nap. Internet here costs GBP2 or EUR2.35 for an hour. Very expensive.
On 28th we had an early breakfast and we all walked up to where HC and MC were to start their horse ride. I hit my trail at 09.30 and went up, up, up for 7 kms with wind against. Even for an experienced trekker like me(!) it was tough. The funny thing is that other walkers didn´t find it so tough! Any road up I was rewarded with a fantastic view of Mount Fitz Roy from the mirador and then on to turquoise blue Laguna Capri and camping without facilities. Pausing briefly to take a little coffee from my flask and do what bears do in the woods, I took some pictures of the fungus that affects all of the trees in Patagonia and destroys the leaves. I left the viewpoint at 12.00 and had arranged to meet the girls at 13.00 at the end of their ride. I arrived at 13.00 they were half an hour late.
On the way down I heard a toc, toc, toc and there he was the carpintero ( wood pecker) busy at his task about 8 metres off the trail. Photos were taken. Then, bugger me, a man was leading two fully laden llamas up the trail. Where they were going and why is a mystery but again photos were taken. The reference to Israel is that El Chalten is full of Israelis and there were maybe 300 on the trail going up as I was coming down and I am surrounded by Hebrew ( a nasty language on the ear) in the Internet Cafe. Why they are all here I have no idea.
When the girls came back they could barely walk. A coffee was taken and a well earned siesta , 2 hours was enjoyed. Tonight is our last night in El Chalten and tomorrow we are back to El Calafate where HC starts her plane journeys back to Buenos Aires and Cordoba, Aerolineas Argentinas willing!
Summary of El Chalten; Stunning location and facilities if you enjoy trekking and we have all enjoyed it very much. More expensive than anywhere else we have been on our travels. Everybody knows lasagne
The next episode in this everyday story of travelling folk will be from Rio Turbio (The 1 horse left town a long time ago)
Tuesday 28 December 2010
Monday 27 December 2010
El Calafate
Monday 20th December - Saturday 25th December 2010
We left Puerto Natales for El Calafate at 08.30 and went through both lots of Customs and into Argentina in under an hour. Considering we were on a full 48 seater bus this must be some sort of record! The trip took 7 hours in total and we settled into Hostal Buenos Aires, nice and comfortable and only 1 1/2 blocks from the bus terminal.
Next day we wandered round the laguna with flamingos, ducks etc and picked Hanne up from the airport. We ate at a pizza restaurant and continued to be amazed at how expensive Argentina has become. We earlier discovered that someone had been trying to use our credit cards on line when we tried to use them to book the Glacier Mini trekking trip. After a very expensive telephone call to the UK we found out that the bank had blocked all of these so that was not an issue but we had to let them block the cards and send us new ones, to Tavizna and then Cordoba......Bummer. It totally peed down for 4 hours and was not warm.
Next day found us wandering around in El Calafate and trying to get cash from 1 of the ATM´s. There are 5 in total and only 1 had any money. You can only take out 1000 pesos per day and with no credit cards, this becomes a problem. Not to be outdone we transferred funds into HC´s UK Nationwide account and she could then also get money out.
El Calafate exists to only service tourist visits to Perito Moreno Glacier. As such it is full of hotels, hostels, restaurants and travel agencies but the houses and gardens are really nicely maintained and wood features widely. Supermarkets are not allowed to give or sell plastic bags It peed down for 5 hours.
Next day in good weather we had a full day including mini trekking (90 mins) on the Glacier. Firstly on the bus the 90 kms and then on a boat to the face of the glacier. Then across the lake to start the trekking on the glacier and get your crampons on. I was fine going up the hills but no good going down and needed help. Marianne and Hanne did good work. Then we went back to the refugio to eat our home made lunch and at 15.15 we took the boat back. We had about an hour on the walkways with the face of the glacier very close( new since Steffen and Lise were there) and very well made as was the cafeteria. All in all the Nacional Park has spent its money on providing excellent facilities. After this tiring day I cooked curry chorizo with green and red peppers. Hanne´s face was very red. She had forgotten to put sun block on. We also had to borrow some shades from the bus driver for her It would have been very silly not to have sun glasses on the glacier! Amazing day with sunshine all the way!
Next day we were all candidates for the Rudolph Red Nose Reindeer prize..Ianne and I went for a little walk and HC slept in. Again all ATM´s except one were empty. We spoke to Lise and Coby on the hostel Skype with no picture from us possible. The hostel is not doing anything special for Christmas. Weather sunny and just a little sweater needed. Xmas dinner tonight at El Cucharon. We had to pay a deposit to secure a table and the set price is ARS230 , 3 course, not Christmas food, excluding booze. This price was enough. The restaurant was full of tourists with people being turned away. Nice food then some free fizz and sweet cakes , sweet bread and sugared peanuts. Value for money would have to be questioned but not ouch! On the way home at 12 midnight the fireworks started. My God they do like a nice firework! The hostel had some free cider and sweet cakes. All I wanted was a cup of coffee.
Summary El Calafate. It is nice but expensive and they need to sort out the ATM situation for the thousands of tourists who come to see the Perito Moreno Glacier. Again it is a one trick pony of a town with the Glacier as the only attraction. Next El Chalten (resident population about 500), the trekking capital of Argentina and rumour has it even more expensive than El Calafate. Holy peso Batman, can this be true? To find out the answer, be sure to tune in to the next episode of this blog...
We left Puerto Natales for El Calafate at 08.30 and went through both lots of Customs and into Argentina in under an hour. Considering we were on a full 48 seater bus this must be some sort of record! The trip took 7 hours in total and we settled into Hostal Buenos Aires, nice and comfortable and only 1 1/2 blocks from the bus terminal.
Next day we wandered round the laguna with flamingos, ducks etc and picked Hanne up from the airport. We ate at a pizza restaurant and continued to be amazed at how expensive Argentina has become. We earlier discovered that someone had been trying to use our credit cards on line when we tried to use them to book the Glacier Mini trekking trip. After a very expensive telephone call to the UK we found out that the bank had blocked all of these so that was not an issue but we had to let them block the cards and send us new ones, to Tavizna and then Cordoba......Bummer. It totally peed down for 4 hours and was not warm.
Next day found us wandering around in El Calafate and trying to get cash from 1 of the ATM´s. There are 5 in total and only 1 had any money. You can only take out 1000 pesos per day and with no credit cards, this becomes a problem. Not to be outdone we transferred funds into HC´s UK Nationwide account and she could then also get money out.
El Calafate exists to only service tourist visits to Perito Moreno Glacier. As such it is full of hotels, hostels, restaurants and travel agencies but the houses and gardens are really nicely maintained and wood features widely. Supermarkets are not allowed to give or sell plastic bags It peed down for 5 hours.
Next day in good weather we had a full day including mini trekking (90 mins) on the Glacier. Firstly on the bus the 90 kms and then on a boat to the face of the glacier. Then across the lake to start the trekking on the glacier and get your crampons on. I was fine going up the hills but no good going down and needed help. Marianne and Hanne did good work. Then we went back to the refugio to eat our home made lunch and at 15.15 we took the boat back. We had about an hour on the walkways with the face of the glacier very close( new since Steffen and Lise were there) and very well made as was the cafeteria. All in all the Nacional Park has spent its money on providing excellent facilities. After this tiring day I cooked curry chorizo with green and red peppers. Hanne´s face was very red. She had forgotten to put sun block on. We also had to borrow some shades from the bus driver for her It would have been very silly not to have sun glasses on the glacier! Amazing day with sunshine all the way!
Next day we were all candidates for the Rudolph Red Nose Reindeer prize..Ianne and I went for a little walk and HC slept in. Again all ATM´s except one were empty. We spoke to Lise and Coby on the hostel Skype with no picture from us possible. The hostel is not doing anything special for Christmas. Weather sunny and just a little sweater needed. Xmas dinner tonight at El Cucharon. We had to pay a deposit to secure a table and the set price is ARS230 , 3 course, not Christmas food, excluding booze. This price was enough. The restaurant was full of tourists with people being turned away. Nice food then some free fizz and sweet cakes , sweet bread and sugared peanuts. Value for money would have to be questioned but not ouch! On the way home at 12 midnight the fireworks started. My God they do like a nice firework! The hostel had some free cider and sweet cakes. All I wanted was a cup of coffee.
Summary El Calafate. It is nice but expensive and they need to sort out the ATM situation for the thousands of tourists who come to see the Perito Moreno Glacier. Again it is a one trick pony of a town with the Glacier as the only attraction. Next El Chalten (resident population about 500), the trekking capital of Argentina and rumour has it even more expensive than El Calafate. Holy peso Batman, can this be true? To find out the answer, be sure to tune in to the next episode of this blog...
Puerto Natales - Chile
Wednesday15th December-Sunday 19th December 2010
The bus trip to Puerto Natales takes 3 hours. At the hostel we met two Dutch people who had cycled from Peru! It was very windy and cold and the town is full of hostels and restaurants all to service people wanting to visit Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. Our hostel Nico´s 2 adventures was absolutely fine. All provisions for this town come from Puerto Montt on the Navimag ferry ( one per week) so the locals say everything is expensive.
We took the day trip to Torres del Paine, 2 1/2 hours away on the bus. The park is geared up for trekkers staying overnight in dorms for 90USD per person plus park entrance fees and transfers. We determined that we were neither fit enough of rich enough to do the standard 3 day , stay in the park, trek.
The weather was also a determining factor as it was really windy and the peaks were only visible from time to time. The lakes were stunning and turquoise in colour except Lake Grey which was grey. Fair enough? However in lake Grey there were blue icebergs from the Grey Glacier. We saw a condor, an armadillo, lots of choikes and lots of guanacos. We also went to a brilliant waterfall where the winds were so strong that we could barely stand up. We must have been outdoors for most of the day because we slept solidly on the coach on the way back.
Our new found friends Mal and Linda came round and we ended up in a cheap restaurant that they had found. A 3 course dinner was less than GBP4 and a nice bottle of Sauvignon Blanc was 3 times that amount. You win some and you lose some.
Nest day, Ianne´s birthday we wandered round town and visited the Tourist Office. Our suspicions were confirmed that really Puerto Natales exists only to service the Torres del Paine Park. The Navimag Ferry coming in every Monday, we will be taking to Puerto Montt (through the fjords and with smelly cows on board) in early January. Got the Blog up to date for Ushuaia. We went to restaurant Afrigonia to celebrate Ianne´s birthday with Mal and Linda. Excellent food and somehow we managed to consume 4 bottles of Sauvignon Blanc. We asked for the chicken curry to be spiced up. It was! Hot stuff. We later found out that this was the best restaurant in PN and we found out about it from a Canadian Guy in Ushuaia. If you visit PN it is well worth blowing your budget to bits with a visit.
On the Sunday the hostel still gave us breakfast even though we appeared at 10.30. Considering we are paying GBP 23 for en suite facilities we are being treated regally. Weather a little warmer and got the blog done as far as Punta Arenas.
We talked with an Israeli couple where she had broken her nose by falling over (totally sober) outside a restaurant with a heavy back pack on. She had to go to Punta Arenas for an X ray because although there was an X ray machine in PN they could not use it until Monday and this was Friday night. The moral of the story is...only break your nose in PN from Monday onwards. The hostal was preparing a parilla for the daughter´s birthday. A very large lamb was sawed in half with a saw in the kitchen.
Summary of Puerto Natales. Torres del Paine. Torres del Paine and Torres del Paine. Next stop, El Calafate.
The bus trip to Puerto Natales takes 3 hours. At the hostel we met two Dutch people who had cycled from Peru! It was very windy and cold and the town is full of hostels and restaurants all to service people wanting to visit Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. Our hostel Nico´s 2 adventures was absolutely fine. All provisions for this town come from Puerto Montt on the Navimag ferry ( one per week) so the locals say everything is expensive.
We took the day trip to Torres del Paine, 2 1/2 hours away on the bus. The park is geared up for trekkers staying overnight in dorms for 90USD per person plus park entrance fees and transfers. We determined that we were neither fit enough of rich enough to do the standard 3 day , stay in the park, trek.
The weather was also a determining factor as it was really windy and the peaks were only visible from time to time. The lakes were stunning and turquoise in colour except Lake Grey which was grey. Fair enough? However in lake Grey there were blue icebergs from the Grey Glacier. We saw a condor, an armadillo, lots of choikes and lots of guanacos. We also went to a brilliant waterfall where the winds were so strong that we could barely stand up. We must have been outdoors for most of the day because we slept solidly on the coach on the way back.
Our new found friends Mal and Linda came round and we ended up in a cheap restaurant that they had found. A 3 course dinner was less than GBP4 and a nice bottle of Sauvignon Blanc was 3 times that amount. You win some and you lose some.
Nest day, Ianne´s birthday we wandered round town and visited the Tourist Office. Our suspicions were confirmed that really Puerto Natales exists only to service the Torres del Paine Park. The Navimag Ferry coming in every Monday, we will be taking to Puerto Montt (through the fjords and with smelly cows on board) in early January. Got the Blog up to date for Ushuaia. We went to restaurant Afrigonia to celebrate Ianne´s birthday with Mal and Linda. Excellent food and somehow we managed to consume 4 bottles of Sauvignon Blanc. We asked for the chicken curry to be spiced up. It was! Hot stuff. We later found out that this was the best restaurant in PN and we found out about it from a Canadian Guy in Ushuaia. If you visit PN it is well worth blowing your budget to bits with a visit.
On the Sunday the hostel still gave us breakfast even though we appeared at 10.30. Considering we are paying GBP 23 for en suite facilities we are being treated regally. Weather a little warmer and got the blog done as far as Punta Arenas.
We talked with an Israeli couple where she had broken her nose by falling over (totally sober) outside a restaurant with a heavy back pack on. She had to go to Punta Arenas for an X ray because although there was an X ray machine in PN they could not use it until Monday and this was Friday night. The moral of the story is...only break your nose in PN from Monday onwards. The hostal was preparing a parilla for the daughter´s birthday. A very large lamb was sawed in half with a saw in the kitchen.
Summary of Puerto Natales. Torres del Paine. Torres del Paine and Torres del Paine. Next stop, El Calafate.
Saturday 18 December 2010
Punta Arenas, Capital of Patagonia Chile, Population 160000
Sunday 17th December 2010
We caught the bus at 08.00 from along San Martin, our landlady had provided an early breakfast for us. Single decker Chile bus with no leg room and air con not working. It had all the makings of a very difficult 12 hour journey. The journey through the mountains and as far as Tolhuin, stop for coffee, was as spectacular as the inward trip. Again via Rio Grande and again it was confirmed as a sh.. hole. We are of the opinion that the Chile side of the Argentina/Chile border in Patagonia qualifies for the tag of...arse end of nowhere...Tavizna is an urban metropolis in comparison. The crossing was quite rough but the arrival of 3 dolphins along the side of the boat provided some pleasure. Again many people got soaked when the captain turned the boat into the waves. Fine sport this. The boat was selling super panchos, hot dogs, but I was not allowed one.
The bus was on time and we got to our hostel Costanero and went to the supermarket for provisions. The supermarket was trying to close at 21.00 and was due to close at 22.00 but many people who were on the bus insisted that they didn't close so we were able to buy groceries and get Chile money out of the ATM. Possibly the narrowest isles in a supermarket that I have ever seen. The fruit and vegetables are expensive reflecting the locality of Punta Arenas and difficulty and distance of supplying it.
Monday 13th December 2010
Windy, windy, windy with gusts up to 140kph. We could barely stand up and the ferry across the mainland to Tierra Del Fuego was cancelled causing havoc with the travellers. We met Mal and Linda from Suffolk who are taking a year out and went with them to Zona Franca, the duty free sector of Punta Arenas. Lashings of Christmas Songs. Same tunes as normal but different words, of course. We bought a new camera, the old one having had liquid in it and a pair of binoculars. The wind was so strong that we could not walk along the newly developed sea front. We bought some bus tickets for Puerto Natales for Wednesday and booked Nico's 11 Adventure hostel for 5 nights. Much better prices, only GBP 24 for a double en suite. Cooked a nice chili con carne for dinner.
Tuesday 14th December 2010
No wind today so we could walk along the sea front, probably 5 km of it. We went to a local museum which was a house owned by a wealthy family and a lot of history about PA. Very nice. We went to the tourist office only to find the notice ...on strike..outside. Ah well.
The afternoon found us in the vast cemetery..and no we were not dying to go there..Punta Arenas was founded by immigrants from Scotland, Germany and Croatia and the cemetery reflected this. Like a lot of Patagonia the houses are metal clad to reduce the wind effects. We were almost attacked by a couple of dogs which is most unusual but when I turned round and shouted they both ran away and one got stuck on the fence while trying to jump over.
I had a row with a pig ignorant Frenchman at the hostel about him monopolising the computer for downloading pictures to Facebook. I cooked chicken casera which we shared with a young German lad who was studying in Santiago de Chile. The washing done by the hotel was very expensive. clp5000 for a bag.
Summary of Punta Arenas..It has an airport and a duty free zone. The newly developed,very nice, walkway along the sea front will be used by many people the day that the place has no wind, some sun and the temperature rises above the Summer average of 12C.
http://www.google.co.uk/images?hl=es&q=punta+arenas&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=UB4NTdXTLoWClAeBgM3QDA&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=4&ved=0CDcQsAQwAw
We caught the bus at 08.00 from along San Martin, our landlady had provided an early breakfast for us. Single decker Chile bus with no leg room and air con not working. It had all the makings of a very difficult 12 hour journey. The journey through the mountains and as far as Tolhuin, stop for coffee, was as spectacular as the inward trip. Again via Rio Grande and again it was confirmed as a sh.. hole. We are of the opinion that the Chile side of the Argentina/Chile border in Patagonia qualifies for the tag of...arse end of nowhere...Tavizna is an urban metropolis in comparison. The crossing was quite rough but the arrival of 3 dolphins along the side of the boat provided some pleasure. Again many people got soaked when the captain turned the boat into the waves. Fine sport this. The boat was selling super panchos, hot dogs, but I was not allowed one.
The bus was on time and we got to our hostel Costanero and went to the supermarket for provisions. The supermarket was trying to close at 21.00 and was due to close at 22.00 but many people who were on the bus insisted that they didn't close so we were able to buy groceries and get Chile money out of the ATM. Possibly the narrowest isles in a supermarket that I have ever seen. The fruit and vegetables are expensive reflecting the locality of Punta Arenas and difficulty and distance of supplying it.
Monday 13th December 2010
Windy, windy, windy with gusts up to 140kph. We could barely stand up and the ferry across the mainland to Tierra Del Fuego was cancelled causing havoc with the travellers. We met Mal and Linda from Suffolk who are taking a year out and went with them to Zona Franca, the duty free sector of Punta Arenas. Lashings of Christmas Songs. Same tunes as normal but different words, of course. We bought a new camera, the old one having had liquid in it and a pair of binoculars. The wind was so strong that we could not walk along the newly developed sea front. We bought some bus tickets for Puerto Natales for Wednesday and booked Nico's 11 Adventure hostel for 5 nights. Much better prices, only GBP 24 for a double en suite. Cooked a nice chili con carne for dinner.
Tuesday 14th December 2010
No wind today so we could walk along the sea front, probably 5 km of it. We went to a local museum which was a house owned by a wealthy family and a lot of history about PA. Very nice. We went to the tourist office only to find the notice ...on strike..outside. Ah well.
The afternoon found us in the vast cemetery..and no we were not dying to go there..Punta Arenas was founded by immigrants from Scotland, Germany and Croatia and the cemetery reflected this. Like a lot of Patagonia the houses are metal clad to reduce the wind effects. We were almost attacked by a couple of dogs which is most unusual but when I turned round and shouted they both ran away and one got stuck on the fence while trying to jump over.
I had a row with a pig ignorant Frenchman at the hostel about him monopolising the computer for downloading pictures to Facebook. I cooked chicken casera which we shared with a young German lad who was studying in Santiago de Chile. The washing done by the hotel was very expensive. clp5000 for a bag.
Summary of Punta Arenas..It has an airport and a duty free zone. The newly developed,very nice, walkway along the sea front will be used by many people the day that the place has no wind, some sun and the temperature rises above the Summer average of 12C.
http://www.google.co.uk/images?hl=es&q=punta+arenas&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=UB4NTdXTLoWClAeBgM3QDA&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=4&ved=0CDcQsAQwAw
Friday 17 December 2010
Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Patagonia
6th December 2010
We left fairly promptly at 09.00 and headed south. Same estepa, same wind. Waited at Argentine border for 2 hours, all baggage and hand baggage had to go through the machine.We had no idea why because we were leaving Argentina. The machine was manned by the pre menstrual bitch from hell who delighted in shouting at all of the travellers for putting their luggage on the conveyor belt before she had told them they could. Then in only half an hour we were into Chile where Ianne had to do her immigration form again because she had ticked yes and no to ..do you have any fruit..and she had written pasas and marmelade . The immigration lady was not interested in the fruit , only the form. I politely told her that I was pleased that Bureaucracy was alive and well and living at the Argentine.Chile border in Patagonia. She smiled. It must have been the wind..
For the ferry crossing across the Magellan Straits, the ferry backed up on to the beach with its ramp down and the coach went down the concrete ramp and up the metal ramp on to the boat. God alone knows what Health and Safety would have made of this in the UK. It was windy with plenty of white tops. People were taking the air forward when the Captain turned the boat into the waves. 45 very wet people rushed back inside. It was very funny. After the 30 minute crossing we had hours of dirt road to the Chile. Argentine border. Very quick immigration with only passports stamped and no baggage checks. We went via Rio Grande which was big and ugly and probably as much fun as Rio Gallegos and got to Toluin in 2 and a half hours. This is a new town, right on a beautiful lake, with government grants for everything and no tax. No doubt in a few years the pristine forests and lakes will be shot to bits with pollution. Then up into the mountains, black and with snow. We arrived at Ushuaia 21.15 only 15 minutes late. Still light, 7C and no wind...Bought a pizza and ate back at the hostel..Early to bed. 12 hour bus journeys make you tired.
7th December 2010
There is no boat service to Punta Arenas and no flight either. The only option is back on the bus for 12 hours or go to Puerto Williams, down the Beagle Channel and in Chile and take the boat to PA..36 hours..We wndered around town after a full briefing from our hostess. Things are expensive here. Arg 14 pesos for a coffee GBP2.50 . We took lunch at the Irish Pub ..they are everywhere..and then went on the bus tour. The bus was incredibly old and I told the Clippy ..who had a proper ticket machine..that Uncle Michael probably helped to build the bus. It was from 1928 I think. We had to have an invisible passenger with us because the bus could only go with 4 passengers and we were only 3. The tourist information on San Martin was very helpful. We had our first sign of the Argentine Navy, 5 small gey and black ships. Antarctic cruise ships and Maersk container ships dominate the port. The sun is shining and it is high summer at 12C.We booked to go on the bus to Punta Arenas on Sunday for ARS250, that is enough money. We had a chicken dinner at a reasonable restaurant with a Tango Show upstairs. Still light at 22.45. Ushuaia is good for tourists especially those who have come down the boring east coast of Argentina. It is a proper city with restaurantes and tourist attractions..The shops are very Christmassy and it seems appropriate for it to be Christmas time because it is cold.
8th December 2010
I went to the internet shop in town. Stupid because there was a facilty at the hostal.We went on the cruise on the Beagle Channel on the Rumbo Sur boat, a catamaran with leather seats and a cafeteria on board. A touch of luxury for 6 hours with lots of ships, a plane , sea lions, penguins, sea birds etc. We saw Puerto Williams, Chile from the boat. Things must be expensive there because they get their provisions from Punta Arenas, some 36 hours away on the boat. Population 2000. This is the world's most southerly town, Ushuaia claiming the title for cities. fin del mundo,end of the world everywhere. The suset was spectacular with pinks and reds and greys. A brief shower on the boat, no real wind and temperatures of 8 degrees. Definitely take the Rumbo Sur tour in Ushuaia.
9th December 2010
Spent the morning at the hostal catching up on things. Then museum in the afternoon with pouring rain. The Fin Del Mundo Museum . pay. is very good showing the history of Ushuaia. The place only grew when they introduced tax free status for companies and now they have 80000 people and the growth is totally out of control with 9 yards of illegal housing and lack of social services. Argentina is still very prickly about its borders and the Chileans and Argies look at each other quite sternly in this part of the world where, if you break wind while sailing, you change country.
10th December 2010
We transferred hostal because Hostelworld said our first hostel was full when in fact it was empty. Cleverer people than me can tell me why this should be. Not too far away but expensive ars240 with shared bathroom.GBP40 per night. We walked up to the glacier. Probably 11 km each way but a lovely walk encompassing sleet and snow showers and wind. We were a little tired but managed it ok. We went into the cafe at the entrance to the park and I had chicken stew .casera. and Ianne had pumpkin.calabasa. soup. Both wre delicious.
Ianne then had a go at Canopy or zip wire. She enjoyed it so much that she wants to have another go the next time we come across it. On the way back we too a path to shorten the journey down the mountain and soon found ourselves in prime forest and bogs with no path. We were the first people there I am sure. We knew that the forest backed up to the mountains for probably 3 kms and that we had to go down. We had to cross mountain streams and managed without wet feet. After an hour we saw a house and clambered down a very steep slope , lost sight of the house, but saw a derelict restaurant which we had noticed on the way up. To get there we had to cross the mountain torrent via a tree which had fallen across. With the aid of a balancing stick we managed to get across to civilisation. We joined the road down some 200 metres below where we had taken the short cut. Back at the hostel Syvia, the owner, allowed me to cook as a special treat. She doesn't like the smell of cooking in her hostel. Spag Bog and half a bottle of Cab Sauv and we retired to bed knackered but happy.
We came across yellow growths on trees known as Pan del Indio. Apparently you can boil them and eat them but we tried them raw and they had no taste. It seems that the rain and snow in Ushuaia comes in the afternoons. Nobody bothers with a weather forecast because it is never correct.
11th December 2010
The legs ache a bit after yesterday's exertions but generally we are fine. If the weather holds up we will go to the National Park some 15km west and right on the Chile border. We took the minibus to the Parque Nacional de Tierrra Fuego. We got dropped off and walked maybe 7/10 km with nice woods, geese, bays etc. No sun but no rain and wind not so bad. We took the thermos with coffee and had a little snack on a few occasions. Education section. Previously when things took a bit of time you could say it was like watching paint dry or grass grow. I can add to this in a mega way. Now you can say it was like a peat bog being fully formed. This takes 14000 years. You can see one in its early stages on this trip.
It turned a bit chilly so we caught the bus back at 17.00 having previously enjoyed a coffee and a hot chocolate for ars 28 or GBP 4.50 . Ouch.
Summary of Ushuaia. We loved it despite the expense. GBP40 per night not ensuite is too much. Restaurants too are expensive by Argentinian standards but the setting surrounded by black mountains with snow and the Beagle Channel make it almost surreal. You certainly need 5 nights to make the trip worthwhile.
http://www.google.cl/images?hl=es&q=ushuaia&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=YX8LTcmYAoP98AaY_fnKDQ&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=3&ved=0CDsQsAQwAg
http://www.google.cl/images?um=1&hl=es&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=beagle+channel&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=
We will update the blog with our own photos when we get back to Cordoba probably in January 2011
We left fairly promptly at 09.00 and headed south. Same estepa, same wind. Waited at Argentine border for 2 hours, all baggage and hand baggage had to go through the machine.We had no idea why because we were leaving Argentina. The machine was manned by the pre menstrual bitch from hell who delighted in shouting at all of the travellers for putting their luggage on the conveyor belt before she had told them they could. Then in only half an hour we were into Chile where Ianne had to do her immigration form again because she had ticked yes and no to ..do you have any fruit..and she had written pasas and marmelade . The immigration lady was not interested in the fruit , only the form. I politely told her that I was pleased that Bureaucracy was alive and well and living at the Argentine.Chile border in Patagonia. She smiled. It must have been the wind..
For the ferry crossing across the Magellan Straits, the ferry backed up on to the beach with its ramp down and the coach went down the concrete ramp and up the metal ramp on to the boat. God alone knows what Health and Safety would have made of this in the UK. It was windy with plenty of white tops. People were taking the air forward when the Captain turned the boat into the waves. 45 very wet people rushed back inside. It was very funny. After the 30 minute crossing we had hours of dirt road to the Chile. Argentine border. Very quick immigration with only passports stamped and no baggage checks. We went via Rio Grande which was big and ugly and probably as much fun as Rio Gallegos and got to Toluin in 2 and a half hours. This is a new town, right on a beautiful lake, with government grants for everything and no tax. No doubt in a few years the pristine forests and lakes will be shot to bits with pollution. Then up into the mountains, black and with snow. We arrived at Ushuaia 21.15 only 15 minutes late. Still light, 7C and no wind...Bought a pizza and ate back at the hostel..Early to bed. 12 hour bus journeys make you tired.
7th December 2010
There is no boat service to Punta Arenas and no flight either. The only option is back on the bus for 12 hours or go to Puerto Williams, down the Beagle Channel and in Chile and take the boat to PA..36 hours..We wndered around town after a full briefing from our hostess. Things are expensive here. Arg 14 pesos for a coffee GBP2.50 . We took lunch at the Irish Pub ..they are everywhere..and then went on the bus tour. The bus was incredibly old and I told the Clippy ..who had a proper ticket machine..that Uncle Michael probably helped to build the bus. It was from 1928 I think. We had to have an invisible passenger with us because the bus could only go with 4 passengers and we were only 3. The tourist information on San Martin was very helpful. We had our first sign of the Argentine Navy, 5 small gey and black ships. Antarctic cruise ships and Maersk container ships dominate the port. The sun is shining and it is high summer at 12C.We booked to go on the bus to Punta Arenas on Sunday for ARS250, that is enough money. We had a chicken dinner at a reasonable restaurant with a Tango Show upstairs. Still light at 22.45. Ushuaia is good for tourists especially those who have come down the boring east coast of Argentina. It is a proper city with restaurantes and tourist attractions..The shops are very Christmassy and it seems appropriate for it to be Christmas time because it is cold.
8th December 2010
I went to the internet shop in town. Stupid because there was a facilty at the hostal.We went on the cruise on the Beagle Channel on the Rumbo Sur boat, a catamaran with leather seats and a cafeteria on board. A touch of luxury for 6 hours with lots of ships, a plane , sea lions, penguins, sea birds etc. We saw Puerto Williams, Chile from the boat. Things must be expensive there because they get their provisions from Punta Arenas, some 36 hours away on the boat. Population 2000. This is the world's most southerly town, Ushuaia claiming the title for cities. fin del mundo,end of the world everywhere. The suset was spectacular with pinks and reds and greys. A brief shower on the boat, no real wind and temperatures of 8 degrees. Definitely take the Rumbo Sur tour in Ushuaia.
9th December 2010
Spent the morning at the hostal catching up on things. Then museum in the afternoon with pouring rain. The Fin Del Mundo Museum . pay. is very good showing the history of Ushuaia. The place only grew when they introduced tax free status for companies and now they have 80000 people and the growth is totally out of control with 9 yards of illegal housing and lack of social services. Argentina is still very prickly about its borders and the Chileans and Argies look at each other quite sternly in this part of the world where, if you break wind while sailing, you change country.
10th December 2010
We transferred hostal because Hostelworld said our first hostel was full when in fact it was empty. Cleverer people than me can tell me why this should be. Not too far away but expensive ars240 with shared bathroom.GBP40 per night. We walked up to the glacier. Probably 11 km each way but a lovely walk encompassing sleet and snow showers and wind. We were a little tired but managed it ok. We went into the cafe at the entrance to the park and I had chicken stew .casera. and Ianne had pumpkin.calabasa. soup. Both wre delicious.
Ianne then had a go at Canopy or zip wire. She enjoyed it so much that she wants to have another go the next time we come across it. On the way back we too a path to shorten the journey down the mountain and soon found ourselves in prime forest and bogs with no path. We were the first people there I am sure. We knew that the forest backed up to the mountains for probably 3 kms and that we had to go down. We had to cross mountain streams and managed without wet feet. After an hour we saw a house and clambered down a very steep slope , lost sight of the house, but saw a derelict restaurant which we had noticed on the way up. To get there we had to cross the mountain torrent via a tree which had fallen across. With the aid of a balancing stick we managed to get across to civilisation. We joined the road down some 200 metres below where we had taken the short cut. Back at the hostel Syvia, the owner, allowed me to cook as a special treat. She doesn't like the smell of cooking in her hostel. Spag Bog and half a bottle of Cab Sauv and we retired to bed knackered but happy.
We came across yellow growths on trees known as Pan del Indio. Apparently you can boil them and eat them but we tried them raw and they had no taste. It seems that the rain and snow in Ushuaia comes in the afternoons. Nobody bothers with a weather forecast because it is never correct.
11th December 2010
The legs ache a bit after yesterday's exertions but generally we are fine. If the weather holds up we will go to the National Park some 15km west and right on the Chile border. We took the minibus to the Parque Nacional de Tierrra Fuego. We got dropped off and walked maybe 7/10 km with nice woods, geese, bays etc. No sun but no rain and wind not so bad. We took the thermos with coffee and had a little snack on a few occasions. Education section. Previously when things took a bit of time you could say it was like watching paint dry or grass grow. I can add to this in a mega way. Now you can say it was like a peat bog being fully formed. This takes 14000 years. You can see one in its early stages on this trip.
It turned a bit chilly so we caught the bus back at 17.00 having previously enjoyed a coffee and a hot chocolate for ars 28 or GBP 4.50 . Ouch.
Summary of Ushuaia. We loved it despite the expense. GBP40 per night not ensuite is too much. Restaurants too are expensive by Argentinian standards but the setting surrounded by black mountains with snow and the Beagle Channel make it almost surreal. You certainly need 5 nights to make the trip worthwhile.
http://www.google.cl/images?hl=es&q=ushuaia&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=YX8LTcmYAoP98AaY_fnKDQ&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=3&ved=0CDsQsAQwAg
http://www.google.cl/images?um=1&hl=es&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=beagle+channel&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=
We will update the blog with our own photos when we get back to Cordoba probably in January 2011
Thursday 9 December 2010
Rio Gallegos
Saturday 4th and Sunday 5th December
The Bradt guide to Argentina says of Comodoro Rivadavia (pop 186000) (we were in transit at the bus station 2 hours) "If you have the misfortune to get stuck here make sure you have a few unread novels and head for the beach Rada Tilly, 10 km south"
It says of Rio Gallegos "it is half the size of Comodoro Rivadavia but equally dull". It does not have a beach nearby. It was windy,windy,windy and cold,cold cold. Lonely Planet says that a lot of money has been spent on the approaches to Rio Gallegos since the Kirchners came into power (Their home town). Christ alone knows what it was like before, The restauarants and cafes are expensive ARS24 (GBP4) for a coffee and a tea.
As Steffen said "The best part of Rio Gallegos is the road out" I cannot add to this. Only go there is there is absolutely nowhere else to go. Hostels and hotels are expensive.
Next stop Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego,Patagonia, Argentina...Sneak preview of the blog from there "Bloody marvellous"
The Bradt guide to Argentina says of Comodoro Rivadavia (pop 186000) (we were in transit at the bus station 2 hours) "If you have the misfortune to get stuck here make sure you have a few unread novels and head for the beach Rada Tilly, 10 km south"
It says of Rio Gallegos "it is half the size of Comodoro Rivadavia but equally dull". It does not have a beach nearby. It was windy,windy,windy and cold,cold cold. Lonely Planet says that a lot of money has been spent on the approaches to Rio Gallegos since the Kirchners came into power (Their home town). Christ alone knows what it was like before, The restauarants and cafes are expensive ARS24 (GBP4) for a coffee and a tea.
As Steffen said "The best part of Rio Gallegos is the road out" I cannot add to this. Only go there is there is absolutely nowhere else to go. Hostels and hotels are expensive.
Next stop Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego,Patagonia, Argentina...Sneak preview of the blog from there "Bloody marvellous"
Wednesday 8 December 2010
Puerto Santa Cruz
Thursday 2nd December
Arrived at 09.00 and took a taxi the 5 blocks to Hotel Monte Leon. Did not sleep but took a coffee by the river (no wild life). Found the tourist office, no sign or office hours but very new. There was a tour to PN Monte Leon the next day. Could not book it but be at the tourist office at 09.00. We went to the Pioneer Museum and the Cultural Museum both fine and free. This place was founded in the 20´s. Windy, windy.
We were fed up with burgers and milanesas (breaded escallops) so the hotel owner suggested a local place 2 blocks up. It was a parilla, butchers, grocers and greengrocers that also sold booze. We had wonderful take away of steak , chips, salad, 2 beers, 1 water and 1 apple for Eur 9. Wonderful value. We were in bed by 9.
Friday 3rd December
We went to the tourism office. No sign of the bus and no reason given for non arrival. It transpired that it was the first week of operation of the bus, well it would have been if it had started. We were offered a taxi to and from the National Park with the driver waiting 3 hours there for ARS250. It was that or nothing so we took it.
We went the 50kms on paved road to the park entrance and registered then 20 kms on dirt road with more guanacos and choikes than you could shake a stick at. First stop was a 2 1/2 km walk to the penguin colony with warning signs for what to do if you see a puma. (No mention made of clean underwear). 60,000 penguins later we were back at the car. Lots of chicks were in the nests. Then on to an island full of sea birds and walks along the beach. I estimate that the tide was about 7 metres high. Serious stuff!
The coffee shop (20 kms from anywhere) was open. We were the only visitors to the Park that day which is the first Coastal Parque Nacional in Argentina. Took a lunch of ham, cheese and tomato with coffee for as and the driver and got back at 16.30. Marvellous day.
Had chicken from the same parilla which was more expensive at Eur 10. Marianne said we had more bottles in the price so that was OK.
We went to bed quite early because the bus to Rio Gallegos was scheduled to leave at 09.45 on Saturday.
Arrived at 09.00 and took a taxi the 5 blocks to Hotel Monte Leon. Did not sleep but took a coffee by the river (no wild life). Found the tourist office, no sign or office hours but very new. There was a tour to PN Monte Leon the next day. Could not book it but be at the tourist office at 09.00. We went to the Pioneer Museum and the Cultural Museum both fine and free. This place was founded in the 20´s. Windy, windy.
We were fed up with burgers and milanesas (breaded escallops) so the hotel owner suggested a local place 2 blocks up. It was a parilla, butchers, grocers and greengrocers that also sold booze. We had wonderful take away of steak , chips, salad, 2 beers, 1 water and 1 apple for Eur 9. Wonderful value. We were in bed by 9.
Friday 3rd December
We went to the tourism office. No sign of the bus and no reason given for non arrival. It transpired that it was the first week of operation of the bus, well it would have been if it had started. We were offered a taxi to and from the National Park with the driver waiting 3 hours there for ARS250. It was that or nothing so we took it.
We went the 50kms on paved road to the park entrance and registered then 20 kms on dirt road with more guanacos and choikes than you could shake a stick at. First stop was a 2 1/2 km walk to the penguin colony with warning signs for what to do if you see a puma. (No mention made of clean underwear). 60,000 penguins later we were back at the car. Lots of chicks were in the nests. Then on to an island full of sea birds and walks along the beach. I estimate that the tide was about 7 metres high. Serious stuff!
The coffee shop (20 kms from anywhere) was open. We were the only visitors to the Park that day which is the first Coastal Parque Nacional in Argentina. Took a lunch of ham, cheese and tomato with coffee for as and the driver and got back at 16.30. Marvellous day.
Had chicken from the same parilla which was more expensive at Eur 10. Marianne said we had more bottles in the price so that was OK.
We went to bed quite early because the bus to Rio Gallegos was scheduled to leave at 09.45 on Saturday.
Puerto Desado
Sunday 28th November
We were up early to catch the bus to Puerto Deseado which left 90 minutes late and then we had to change bus in Rawson. We arrived at 22.00 and took the taxi to Hotel Colon which was old but fine. The shower had no filter so it was like standing under a waterfall!
Monday 29th November
Very windy and cold. Full weatherproof gear was being worn. Went down to the river and booked a trip along the estuary for the next day. We found the internet cafe and booked to go overnight to Puerto Santa Cruz on Wednesday. Barca 5 Madrid 0. Saw the second half at the bus station. Marvellous! We had the worst dinner of the trip at Drugstore Quick (not a drugstore and not quick), super pollo!!! Vomitatous. We have pictures which you may see later. This place is to be avoided at all costs. The port is totally blocked by the coastguard so you cannot get in. God alone knows why.
Tuesday 30th November
Windy and cold. We turned up for our trip down the river at 15.00. No trip, not enough passengers. They had our mobile number but could not explain why they didn´t phone us. They did phone us the day before offering a different trip and confirming this trip. Unprofessional bastards! As always I was very calm and told them that I was not happy in a very nice way!
We saw another advert for a trip the next day and put our name down in case there were enough customers. There were not, so no river trip for us. Spent a lot of time in the Internet cafe booking stuff.
Wednesday 1st December
Windy, windy. Took a 2 km walk along the estuary into the wind. It was lovely and we saw lots of sea birds and a hare. We took lunch at the only restaurant worthy of its name in Puerto Deseado, Puerto Cristal which was unique for restaurants in Argentina. They actually had everything on the menu!
There was a juvenile guanaco tied up to a lamp post at the Prefectura (Coast guard). It transpired it had hurt its leg and someone was caring for it until it could be returned to the campo! Marianne had a nice stroke.
We caught the the bus at 19.15 to Puerto Santa Cruz via Caleta Olivia. The connecting bus arrived 75 minutes late at Caleta Olivia at 02.00. Being seasoned travellers we took this in our stride and managed to get some more buses booked to pass the time.
Verdict on Puerto Deseado. No hostels on Hostelworld. Very limited opportunities for trips. Perhaps better in high season but I wouln´t go beyond the foot of out stairs. Perfect for those enjoying winds of 65kmph.
We were up early to catch the bus to Puerto Deseado which left 90 minutes late and then we had to change bus in Rawson. We arrived at 22.00 and took the taxi to Hotel Colon which was old but fine. The shower had no filter so it was like standing under a waterfall!
Monday 29th November
Very windy and cold. Full weatherproof gear was being worn. Went down to the river and booked a trip along the estuary for the next day. We found the internet cafe and booked to go overnight to Puerto Santa Cruz on Wednesday. Barca 5 Madrid 0. Saw the second half at the bus station. Marvellous! We had the worst dinner of the trip at Drugstore Quick (not a drugstore and not quick), super pollo!!! Vomitatous. We have pictures which you may see later. This place is to be avoided at all costs. The port is totally blocked by the coastguard so you cannot get in. God alone knows why.
Tuesday 30th November
Windy and cold. We turned up for our trip down the river at 15.00. No trip, not enough passengers. They had our mobile number but could not explain why they didn´t phone us. They did phone us the day before offering a different trip and confirming this trip. Unprofessional bastards! As always I was very calm and told them that I was not happy in a very nice way!
We saw another advert for a trip the next day and put our name down in case there were enough customers. There were not, so no river trip for us. Spent a lot of time in the Internet cafe booking stuff.
Wednesday 1st December
Windy, windy. Took a 2 km walk along the estuary into the wind. It was lovely and we saw lots of sea birds and a hare. We took lunch at the only restaurant worthy of its name in Puerto Deseado, Puerto Cristal which was unique for restaurants in Argentina. They actually had everything on the menu!
There was a juvenile guanaco tied up to a lamp post at the Prefectura (Coast guard). It transpired it had hurt its leg and someone was caring for it until it could be returned to the campo! Marianne had a nice stroke.
We caught the the bus at 19.15 to Puerto Santa Cruz via Caleta Olivia. The connecting bus arrived 75 minutes late at Caleta Olivia at 02.00. Being seasoned travellers we took this in our stride and managed to get some more buses booked to pass the time.
Verdict on Puerto Deseado. No hostels on Hostelworld. Very limited opportunities for trips. Perhaps better in high season but I wouln´t go beyond the foot of out stairs. Perfect for those enjoying winds of 65kmph.
Puerto Madryn
Sunday 21st November
We arrived late afternoon after 12 hour bus and took a taxi to the Hi Patagonia Hostel and were offered a cup of coffee by Gaston the owner. Nice man. Wins prizes for running hostels! We booked car for 4 days at his recommendation (225678 kms on the clock) and booked hotels/hostals in Puerto Piramides (Peninsular Valdes) and Trelew. Hostelworld has no entries for these places. We also booked for whale watching at Puerto Piramedes and dolphin watching at Puerto Rawson.
Monday 22nd November
We drove out to Peninsular Valdes and Puerto Piramides (PP) , stopping at the nice new visitor cntre and paying our entrance fees to the National Park. There were lots and lots of guanacos on the way (they can jump the fences with ease) and we checked into "the Paradise" and took the sunset whale watching cruise. It was very good with lots of whales and babies. After two hours of watching we went back to the hotel for huge amounts of lenguado (sole) and salmon. Some times its tough being aged backpackers but we manage somehow!
Disgrace and shame on the National Park and World Heritage Site for allowing the following...
We drove to Punta Delgado, 90 kms on a dirt road to see dolphins but prior to the dolphins there is a private road owned by a hotel and these people have also blocked the public road. You either order a lunch or similar at the hotel or have a private guide (price is the same, 150 Argentine pesos per person) and then you can see the dolphins. Exactly the same is true if you drive north to Punte del Norte and turn off left before reaching it to another penguin beach. As you can imagine, I was very polite to these people (commercial scum) and only accused them of being bandits and a disgrace to Peninsular Valdes. Needless to say we did not pay and watched penguins at other places for free. These people use the cruise ships customers into Puerto Madryn as punters and they are whisked out by coach to see the dolphins and don´t know any difference.
Tuesday 23rd November
Drove out to Punta del Norte on Peninsular Valdes which was marvellous and free! Lots of elephant seals and a nice cafeteria where we had a picnic. People are kept a sensible distance from the seals so everything is perfectly natural. We then drove south down the coast and saw two penguin colonies and more elephant seals. Then on to a nature centre whose name escapes me but had a coffee ship and a 5 km nature walk along the cliffs. Tired but happy we drove back on the dirt roads the 100 km back to Puerto Piramedes.
Robbers and Rip offs
Hanne booked "the Paradise" at Puerto Pirimedes for us on the phone ( no internet booking possible anywhere on Peninsular Valdes!) and was quoted a rate of 150 per day for a double en suite. Fine. Not expensive. However, when we came to pay the place said yes, 150 US Dollars per Day which is 4 times the original rate!!!!! We didn´t argue and I politely accused them of being very dishonest people. If you know anybody going to Peninsular Valdes tell them this story!!!!
Wednesday 24th November
We drove down to Trelew (pueblo of Lewis indeed to goodness!) and on the way took the dirt coastal road back to Puerto Madryn ( Good hit Steffen) and saw a mother and baby whale at the centre at Punto Flecha. We wandered around Trelew looking for a restaurant and managed to find Sugar. It has no name anywhere except on the menu. Don´t think people eat out much in this part of the world.
Thursday 25th November (Happy birthday to me)
We drove down to Puerto Rawson for the dolphin watching which was outstanding. They are so fast in the water and swim in front of the boats no matter how fast the boats go. They are almost tame in that it is quite possible to have a little touch in the water.
Down to Punto Tombo on the paved roads except for the last 22km. Absolutely wonderful. So many of the little buggars everywhere (80,000 to be more or less exact) and they are so cute. You cannot walk among them now which is probably for the best but there are elevated walkways for people so the residents can walk to and from the beach, up to 1 km, without being bothered by people. Very modest entrance fee and a nice cafe. Throw in guanacos and choiques (rheas) and some very small rodents whose name is lost for the moment and you have a feast of wild life. I bought a green Punto Tombo hat which I wear with pride!
We drove back to Puerto Madryn for a birthday BBQ which Gaston the owner had organised with all of the people from the hostel while we were away and enjoyed some Argentinian fizz!
Friday 26th/Saturday 27th November
We wandered around Puerto Madryn and went to the ECO centre some 3kms along the beach. We had had unflattering reports about Puerto Madryn but we can truly say that we enjoyed it very much downtown by the beach. It is always windy and a walk along the very long pier blows all cobwebs away. The pier also hosts some sea lions. The outskirts are like all Argentine towns (being polite, scruffy)
We arrived late afternoon after 12 hour bus and took a taxi to the Hi Patagonia Hostel and were offered a cup of coffee by Gaston the owner. Nice man. Wins prizes for running hostels! We booked car for 4 days at his recommendation (225678 kms on the clock) and booked hotels/hostals in Puerto Piramides (Peninsular Valdes) and Trelew. Hostelworld has no entries for these places. We also booked for whale watching at Puerto Piramedes and dolphin watching at Puerto Rawson.
Monday 22nd November
We drove out to Peninsular Valdes and Puerto Piramides (PP) , stopping at the nice new visitor cntre and paying our entrance fees to the National Park. There were lots and lots of guanacos on the way (they can jump the fences with ease) and we checked into "the Paradise" and took the sunset whale watching cruise. It was very good with lots of whales and babies. After two hours of watching we went back to the hotel for huge amounts of lenguado (sole) and salmon. Some times its tough being aged backpackers but we manage somehow!
Disgrace and shame on the National Park and World Heritage Site for allowing the following...
We drove to Punta Delgado, 90 kms on a dirt road to see dolphins but prior to the dolphins there is a private road owned by a hotel and these people have also blocked the public road. You either order a lunch or similar at the hotel or have a private guide (price is the same, 150 Argentine pesos per person) and then you can see the dolphins. Exactly the same is true if you drive north to Punte del Norte and turn off left before reaching it to another penguin beach. As you can imagine, I was very polite to these people (commercial scum) and only accused them of being bandits and a disgrace to Peninsular Valdes. Needless to say we did not pay and watched penguins at other places for free. These people use the cruise ships customers into Puerto Madryn as punters and they are whisked out by coach to see the dolphins and don´t know any difference.
Tuesday 23rd November
Drove out to Punta del Norte on Peninsular Valdes which was marvellous and free! Lots of elephant seals and a nice cafeteria where we had a picnic. People are kept a sensible distance from the seals so everything is perfectly natural. We then drove south down the coast and saw two penguin colonies and more elephant seals. Then on to a nature centre whose name escapes me but had a coffee ship and a 5 km nature walk along the cliffs. Tired but happy we drove back on the dirt roads the 100 km back to Puerto Piramedes.
Robbers and Rip offs
Hanne booked "the Paradise" at Puerto Pirimedes for us on the phone ( no internet booking possible anywhere on Peninsular Valdes!) and was quoted a rate of 150 per day for a double en suite. Fine. Not expensive. However, when we came to pay the place said yes, 150 US Dollars per Day which is 4 times the original rate!!!!! We didn´t argue and I politely accused them of being very dishonest people. If you know anybody going to Peninsular Valdes tell them this story!!!!
Wednesday 24th November
We drove down to Trelew (pueblo of Lewis indeed to goodness!) and on the way took the dirt coastal road back to Puerto Madryn ( Good hit Steffen) and saw a mother and baby whale at the centre at Punto Flecha. We wandered around Trelew looking for a restaurant and managed to find Sugar. It has no name anywhere except on the menu. Don´t think people eat out much in this part of the world.
Thursday 25th November (Happy birthday to me)
We drove down to Puerto Rawson for the dolphin watching which was outstanding. They are so fast in the water and swim in front of the boats no matter how fast the boats go. They are almost tame in that it is quite possible to have a little touch in the water.
Down to Punto Tombo on the paved roads except for the last 22km. Absolutely wonderful. So many of the little buggars everywhere (80,000 to be more or less exact) and they are so cute. You cannot walk among them now which is probably for the best but there are elevated walkways for people so the residents can walk to and from the beach, up to 1 km, without being bothered by people. Very modest entrance fee and a nice cafe. Throw in guanacos and choiques (rheas) and some very small rodents whose name is lost for the moment and you have a feast of wild life. I bought a green Punto Tombo hat which I wear with pride!
We drove back to Puerto Madryn for a birthday BBQ which Gaston the owner had organised with all of the people from the hostel while we were away and enjoyed some Argentinian fizz!
Friday 26th/Saturday 27th November
We wandered around Puerto Madryn and went to the ECO centre some 3kms along the beach. We had had unflattering reports about Puerto Madryn but we can truly say that we enjoyed it very much downtown by the beach. It is always windy and a walk along the very long pier blows all cobwebs away. The pier also hosts some sea lions. The outskirts are like all Argentine towns (being polite, scruffy)
Friday 19 November 2010
Cordoba (Again)
Tuesday 16th November-Saturday 20th November
On Tuesday 16th we arrived in Cordoba from SM de Tucuman at 07.30. A taxi to Hanne´s flat found her fast asleep at about 8am. No change there then!
Basic housekeeping took place like washing fleeces ( 2 months and stiff with travel dust) and all washable clothes. Dinner has taken place at Junior B, inside because it was zipping down with rain. The increase in prices (large) since last time was duly noted. I cannot understand how Argentinians cope. Today the flat door jammed and a locksmith was called. A new lock and three new keys were provided with two visits to the flat involved. The bill was 100 pesos or GBP16. With such low prices (and wages corresponding) I cannot see how anybody affords the restaurant (and other) prices which are not cheap. Junior B was full last night. Personal debt must be the only answer.
An amusing anecdote. Hanne booked, on the phone, a hostal on Peninsular Valdes (There are now lots of them) and they wanted my credit card details, which were duly provided. When asked if we could pay by credit card the answer was, oh no, we only take cash!!! Also there is now an ATM on Peninsular Valdes which regularly runs out of cash BUT is refilled every Monday.
Just for good measure I asked for quotes from 3 car hire companies by email. The best price was from Wild Skies Rentacar who do take credit cards but offered 10% discount for cash!
We have unloaded lots of items which will not be needed on the next leg of the trip which starts on Saturday (tomorrow) with a 20 hour bus trip to Puerto Madryn. We plan to be back at base camp in Cordoba for the last week in January prior to the trip north to Iguasu, Brazil and Uruguay. Hanne is off to UK on Sunday and will meet up with us in El Calafate on 22nd December for Christmas. The New Year venue has not yet been sorted.
Cordoba (Hanne´s part) remains full of young people. We are going to Mandarina tonight for a farewell dinner.
Frommer's Review This eclectic restaurant, along the pedestrian walkway Obispo Trejo, is a cornucopia of surreal and occasionally sexual artwork. The city's cultural crowd comes for salads, pizzas, and pastas and later for wines, whiskeys, and wacky ..."
God alone knows what drugs this reviewer was on because the Mandarina we go to is nothing like this!
The next blog entry will be from Patagonia....
On Tuesday 16th we arrived in Cordoba from SM de Tucuman at 07.30. A taxi to Hanne´s flat found her fast asleep at about 8am. No change there then!
Basic housekeeping took place like washing fleeces ( 2 months and stiff with travel dust) and all washable clothes. Dinner has taken place at Junior B, inside because it was zipping down with rain. The increase in prices (large) since last time was duly noted. I cannot understand how Argentinians cope. Today the flat door jammed and a locksmith was called. A new lock and three new keys were provided with two visits to the flat involved. The bill was 100 pesos or GBP16. With such low prices (and wages corresponding) I cannot see how anybody affords the restaurant (and other) prices which are not cheap. Junior B was full last night. Personal debt must be the only answer.
An amusing anecdote. Hanne booked, on the phone, a hostal on Peninsular Valdes (There are now lots of them) and they wanted my credit card details, which were duly provided. When asked if we could pay by credit card the answer was, oh no, we only take cash!!! Also there is now an ATM on Peninsular Valdes which regularly runs out of cash BUT is refilled every Monday.
Just for good measure I asked for quotes from 3 car hire companies by email. The best price was from Wild Skies Rentacar who do take credit cards but offered 10% discount for cash!
We have unloaded lots of items which will not be needed on the next leg of the trip which starts on Saturday (tomorrow) with a 20 hour bus trip to Puerto Madryn. We plan to be back at base camp in Cordoba for the last week in January prior to the trip north to Iguasu, Brazil and Uruguay. Hanne is off to UK on Sunday and will meet up with us in El Calafate on 22nd December for Christmas. The New Year venue has not yet been sorted.
Cordoba (Hanne´s part) remains full of young people. We are going to Mandarina tonight for a farewell dinner.
Frommer's Review This eclectic restaurant, along the pedestrian walkway Obispo Trejo, is a cornucopia of surreal and occasionally sexual artwork. The city's cultural crowd comes for salads, pizzas, and pastas and later for wines, whiskeys, and wacky ..."
God alone knows what drugs this reviewer was on because the Mandarina we go to is nothing like this!
The next blog entry will be from Patagonia....
Cafayate
Saturday 13th November
Our hostal, Ruta 40 ( it is on Ruta 40 which goes way south in Argentina) has a sign outside KM4132. That is the distance to Ushuaia on Tierra del Fuego. Cafayate is quite an upmarket sort of place with no shoe shine boys and 1 beggar. We took a walk out of town to a hill mirador (viewpoint). On the way we met some men digging a hole. Of course I asked if it was for the mother in law, which they though was very funny, but no, it was for a cow they were going to cook with hot timbers and then covered up. It would be ready the next day.
There was a vintage car rally in town. Lots of really old cars in fantastic condition.
Sunday 14th November
We took a taxi for the 7 kms out to a camp site and the river Colorado and, just like Lise and Steffen said, a guide appeared and took us on the gorge climb. It was very hard work and I gave up after 1 hour and 40 minutes. Ianne went off with the guide and came back 90 minutes later having reached the waterfalls.
We were too tired to walk back so the guide got us a lift with a young couple from Salta in their car. Nice people. We had lunch in the town square at 16.30 and pottered about until bed time.
Monday 15th November
We wandered round town and bought more presents. Now we have presents for everybody and can relax a little. We bought a big bag in Bolivia just for presents and now it is not big enough. We cannot get a bus directly to Cordoba from Cafayate, we have to go via San Miguel de Tucuman so we caught the bus at 14.00 and arrived promply at 19.00. There was a fantastic green gorge for lots of miles on the way down but I didn´t catch the name.
We are now experts at passing time at Bus Terminii so we had a very greasy dinner and then made the time pass until 23.00 for our bus to Cordoba.
Our hostal, Ruta 40 ( it is on Ruta 40 which goes way south in Argentina) has a sign outside KM4132. That is the distance to Ushuaia on Tierra del Fuego. Cafayate is quite an upmarket sort of place with no shoe shine boys and 1 beggar. We took a walk out of town to a hill mirador (viewpoint). On the way we met some men digging a hole. Of course I asked if it was for the mother in law, which they though was very funny, but no, it was for a cow they were going to cook with hot timbers and then covered up. It would be ready the next day.
There was a vintage car rally in town. Lots of really old cars in fantastic condition.
Sunday 14th November
We took a taxi for the 7 kms out to a camp site and the river Colorado and, just like Lise and Steffen said, a guide appeared and took us on the gorge climb. It was very hard work and I gave up after 1 hour and 40 minutes. Ianne went off with the guide and came back 90 minutes later having reached the waterfalls.
We were too tired to walk back so the guide got us a lift with a young couple from Salta in their car. Nice people. We had lunch in the town square at 16.30 and pottered about until bed time.
Monday 15th November
We wandered round town and bought more presents. Now we have presents for everybody and can relax a little. We bought a big bag in Bolivia just for presents and now it is not big enough. We cannot get a bus directly to Cordoba from Cafayate, we have to go via San Miguel de Tucuman so we caught the bus at 14.00 and arrived promply at 19.00. There was a fantastic green gorge for lots of miles on the way down but I didn´t catch the name.
We are now experts at passing time at Bus Terminii so we had a very greasy dinner and then made the time pass until 23.00 for our bus to Cordoba.
Salta
Thursday 11th November
We took the 10.00 bus for the 2 hour trip to Salta and checked into the very centrally located Hostal Cathedral. Very nice room and it was such a shame about the dragon on reception. Salta is really nice and we wandered around and went on the gondola up to San Bernado. We were going to a show ( as recommended by Lise) but I had "Bolivian Revenge" and could not venture far from a toilet so the show had to wait.
Friday 12th November
We wandered around Salta and sat in the main square and Marianne went to the museum of high altitude and I people watched in the square. We took the 17.00 bus to Cafayate and arrived at 21.00. The last hour of the journey is nice in the gorge but the first 3 hours are boring.
We took the 10.00 bus for the 2 hour trip to Salta and checked into the very centrally located Hostal Cathedral. Very nice room and it was such a shame about the dragon on reception. Salta is really nice and we wandered around and went on the gondola up to San Bernado. We were going to a show ( as recommended by Lise) but I had "Bolivian Revenge" and could not venture far from a toilet so the show had to wait.
Friday 12th November
We wandered around Salta and sat in the main square and Marianne went to the museum of high altitude and I people watched in the square. We took the 17.00 bus to Cafayate and arrived at 21.00. The last hour of the journey is nice in the gorge but the first 3 hours are boring.
San Salvador de Jujuy
Wednesday 10th November
CULTURE SHOCK!!!!
No bowler hats to be seen. People sitting in roadside cafes taking coffee. Very few indigenous looking people. Some people well over 1.90CM tall and very few oompaloompas. Brand new 4x4 pick up trucks cruising the main street. This was Argentina and not Bolivia. The prices also reflected the change of country!
Jujuy has few outstanding features and one of them is the town square. This was absolutely full of tents because the civil service union was on strike and they proceeded to march round the town. We went in the other direction.
CULTURE SHOCK!!!!
No bowler hats to be seen. People sitting in roadside cafes taking coffee. Very few indigenous looking people. Some people well over 1.90CM tall and very few oompaloompas. Brand new 4x4 pick up trucks cruising the main street. This was Argentina and not Bolivia. The prices also reflected the change of country!
Jujuy has few outstanding features and one of them is the town square. This was absolutely full of tents because the civil service union was on strike and they proceeded to march round the town. We went in the other direction.
Tupiza
Monday 8th November
Near here is where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid met their maker, al least according to one version. I did a lot of internetting and managed a little siesta of 3 hours. The Salar had worn me out. Marianne wandered round town and saw the train which goes to the border and north. Weather warm and short pant worn. We went to the bus depot to try and sort out tickets for the journey south to Argentina. We refused an offer from a ticket tout for a direct journey to San Salvador de Jujuy which involved a bus coming from La Paz. Clearly he was on more than coca tea! Not a chance.
We settled for a ticket to Villazon, the Bolivian border town and worked out that, with a bit of luck and a fair wind we could catch the 15.11 from La Quiaca (Argentine border) to SS de Jujuy.
Tuesday 9th November
We had the oldest bus in the world to the border terminal. The road is also in a state of renewal so the journey was quite bone shaking. Nevertheless we arrived on time and walked the 7 blocks in the heat to the border. We went through customs and immigration very quickly and there were no forms to fill in. We took a taxi to the bus terminal at La Quiaca. The Balut bus 15.10 to SS de Jujuy was fully booked so we took the 15.11 to the same destination. The original bus should have taken 5 hours and ours 6 hours. As it turned out the 15.10 got stopped at 2 road blocks ( everybody out and full luggage search (drugs from Bolivia)) and we arrived first at about 21.00.
We took a taxi to Wok Yahi hostel ( it means happy home in Quechwa).
Near here is where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid met their maker, al least according to one version. I did a lot of internetting and managed a little siesta of 3 hours. The Salar had worn me out. Marianne wandered round town and saw the train which goes to the border and north. Weather warm and short pant worn. We went to the bus depot to try and sort out tickets for the journey south to Argentina. We refused an offer from a ticket tout for a direct journey to San Salvador de Jujuy which involved a bus coming from La Paz. Clearly he was on more than coca tea! Not a chance.
We settled for a ticket to Villazon, the Bolivian border town and worked out that, with a bit of luck and a fair wind we could catch the 15.11 from La Quiaca (Argentine border) to SS de Jujuy.
Tuesday 9th November
We had the oldest bus in the world to the border terminal. The road is also in a state of renewal so the journey was quite bone shaking. Nevertheless we arrived on time and walked the 7 blocks in the heat to the border. We went through customs and immigration very quickly and there were no forms to fill in. We took a taxi to the bus terminal at La Quiaca. The Balut bus 15.10 to SS de Jujuy was fully booked so we took the 15.11 to the same destination. The original bus should have taken 5 hours and ours 6 hours. As it turned out the 15.10 got stopped at 2 road blocks ( everybody out and full luggage search (drugs from Bolivia)) and we arrived first at about 21.00.
We took a taxi to Wok Yahi hostel ( it means happy home in Quechwa).
Uyuni (3650 metres asl), the Salar and South of the Salar
Wednesday 3rd November
The bus left at 11.30 punto, cramped, full and all luggage on the top of the bus under a tarpaulin. Toilet on board, no chance. Very nice journey again through the mountains and we duly arrived at Uyuni at 18.00 and found the Piedra Blanca Backpackers hostal. Our room was damp and, with the altitude, it made breathing very difficult. We found the Red Planet Expeditions following a recommendation from the hostal owners and after some negotiation we signed up for a 4 day, 3 night tour ending in Tupiza, with driver and English speaking guide. Sleeping bags would be provided as would hot water bottles (3). The whole trip was to be about 1200 km. We paid a deposit and had to hope that the one ATM in Uyuni still had some money. Despite a queue to use it there was still some money left so we were ok!
You really would not want to stay in Uyuni any longer than was necessary and the only reason to visit is the Salar (Salt Flat). A new International Airport has started being built, scheduled to be finished this year. At the current rate of progress add 10 years.
Thursday 4th November
At 11.00 we set off in a 13 year old, but immaculately maintained Toyota Land Cruiser 4 x 4 automatic with a mph speed clock with Alex the driver and Oscar the guide. 4 huge jerry cans full of petrol were on the roof and all of the luggage was in the back (normally where 3 more people go). We went out onto the Salar via Alex´s house and past where the new airport is being built.
First stop was the train graveyard where all of the trains were rusting away.
http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/jeffsadventures/jeffswalkabout/1150580940/tpod.html
There is still one line working, for goods only to, we think, Antofogasta in Chile.
We went across the Salar to Colchani for lunch where we saw how the salt was gathered , dried and packed for sale.
http://www.americasol.net/bolivia/sal_en_colchani/index_english.html
Then we were off to the Ojos de Salar and past the Hoteles de Sal (hotels made of salt) to the Isla Incahuasi for a 360 degree view of the Salar (fantastic). Some of the cactii(?) were 900 plus years old.
http://www.google.com.ar/images?hl=es&q=hoteles+de+sal+uyuni&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=oYfmTPaWF8T68AaS4Y3jDA&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=2&ved=0CDIQsAQwAQ&biw=1430&bih=663
http://www.google.com.ar/images?um=1&hl=es&biw=1430&bih=663&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=isla+incahuasi+uyuni&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=
Next was the visit to Volcan Tunupa, the most beautiful volcano in the area. Legend has it that she spurned the advances of the male volcanos but one night she got a visit from one and had a baby boy volcano. The male volcano took the little volcano with him and Tunupa was so distraught that she erupted and her milk mixed with her tears and formed the Salar. Gets my vote.
http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Archivo:Volc%C3%A1n_Tunupa_-_Oruro_-_Bolivia.jpg
The Salar is a magical place with the white contrasting with the blue of the sky and the journey continued to Puerto Chuvica and our first salt hotel. We had dinner with a bottle of Bolivian vino collapso and slept very well and were not cold at all. Salt furniture and salt beds are fine. The only problem with salt walls is that their sound insulation capabilities are zero and you could hear a mouse fart in the next room!
http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/page/?o=RrzKj&page_id=170036&v=JR
This entry is here so that you can see what the Salt Hotel looks like. I take no responsibility for the looney tunes who are bicycling on the Saltar!
Friday 5th November (Day 2)
The first place off the Salar was San Juan with an excellent small museum with English translations. Also we visited a pre Inca graveyard with bodies buried in stone hills.
http://www.travelpod.com/travel-photo/vonkaz29/1/1266950555/the-necropolis-in-san-juan.jpg/tpod.html
Then a long journey with fantastic mountains and volcanos to Ollague, a semi live (?) volcano. Not quite sure how you get a semi live one but that is what the guide called it.
http://www.panoramio.com/photo/15302311
We then visited lots of lagunas , Hedionda and the Arbol de Piedra and rock formations in the desert.
http://www.google.com.ar/images?hl=es&q=laguna+hedionda&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=647mTOHULYH_8Ab79dnCCQ&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CCQQsAQwAA&biw=1430&bih=663
We ended up near Laguna Colorada (National Park) and slept at 4200 metres in a primitive hut! We had 8 blankets, a sleeping bag each and the hot water bottles and went to bed with all clothes on. Showers? Hot water? Deam on! It was very windy and the temperature outside in the morning was -10 (without the wind chill).
Saturday 6th November (Day 3)
Off to Laguna Colorada with millions of flamingos.
http://www.google.com.ar/images?um=1&hl=es&biw=1430&bih=663&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=laguna+colorada&aq=f&aqi=g2&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=
Then up to Sol de Manaña (4712 metres asl) for fumaroles
http://www.trekearth.com/gallery/South_America/Bolivia/South/Potosi/Quetena_Grande/photo975302.htm
and then to Aguas Thermales where one could bathe in a hot spring. No takers in our camp.
http://www.minube.com/fotos/rincon/82562/406991
Then off to Laguna Salada and Laguna Verde both in the shadow of Volcan Licancabur (5920 metres asl)
http://www.google.com.ar/images?hl=es&q=laguna+verde,+bolivia&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=mZnmTJW_KY-q8Ab6iMnBDA&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CCAQsAQwAA&biw=1430&bih=663
Next came the Desierto de Dali with very weird rock formations in the desert.
http://www.google.com.ar/images?um=1&hl=es&biw=1430&bih=663&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=desierto+de+Dali&btnG=Buscar&aq=f&aqi=g1&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=
We had a picnic in a town square, the name of which totally eludes me but the one horse had left a long time ago and then we pushed on to San Antonio de Lipez and went through the ghost town ( see picture). Rumour has it that the priest told the villagers that he needed gold from them to make a gold bell. When he got the gold he did a runner and was never seen again. Then wierd things started to happen in the village so everybody left. Not sure when all of this happened but a long time ago.
http://www.viajeros.com/fotos/la-expedicion-al-salar-a-a-a-1a-a-etapa-entre-el-desierto-y-la-altura/260736
We slept in San Antonio which was high but not freezing. Marianne took no chances and had a sleeping bag and two hot water bottles.
Sunday 7th November( Day 4)
We left at 08.00 and had a fantastic drive through mountains, fords, rivers with lots of llamas and most at very high altitude. We arrived Tupiza mid afternoon and checked into the Valle Hermosa hostel. Weather very warm.
We saw a parade in the square in the evening with music and dancing. Miss Bolivia and entourage were in the parade. Tupiza does not possess an ATM!
The 4 day trip was absolutely fantastic and we would totally recommend it to everybody. It was bloody cold 1 night but with sleeping bags and hot water bottles we managed fine.
It seemed that the only restaurants open were Italian, so we had an Italian dinner.
The bus left at 11.30 punto, cramped, full and all luggage on the top of the bus under a tarpaulin. Toilet on board, no chance. Very nice journey again through the mountains and we duly arrived at Uyuni at 18.00 and found the Piedra Blanca Backpackers hostal. Our room was damp and, with the altitude, it made breathing very difficult. We found the Red Planet Expeditions following a recommendation from the hostal owners and after some negotiation we signed up for a 4 day, 3 night tour ending in Tupiza, with driver and English speaking guide. Sleeping bags would be provided as would hot water bottles (3). The whole trip was to be about 1200 km. We paid a deposit and had to hope that the one ATM in Uyuni still had some money. Despite a queue to use it there was still some money left so we were ok!
You really would not want to stay in Uyuni any longer than was necessary and the only reason to visit is the Salar (Salt Flat). A new International Airport has started being built, scheduled to be finished this year. At the current rate of progress add 10 years.
Thursday 4th November
At 11.00 we set off in a 13 year old, but immaculately maintained Toyota Land Cruiser 4 x 4 automatic with a mph speed clock with Alex the driver and Oscar the guide. 4 huge jerry cans full of petrol were on the roof and all of the luggage was in the back (normally where 3 more people go). We went out onto the Salar via Alex´s house and past where the new airport is being built.
First stop was the train graveyard where all of the trains were rusting away.
http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/jeffsadventures/jeffswalkabout/1150580940/tpod.html
There is still one line working, for goods only to, we think, Antofogasta in Chile.
We went across the Salar to Colchani for lunch where we saw how the salt was gathered , dried and packed for sale.
http://www.americasol.net/bolivia/sal_en_colchani/index_english.html
Then we were off to the Ojos de Salar and past the Hoteles de Sal (hotels made of salt) to the Isla Incahuasi for a 360 degree view of the Salar (fantastic). Some of the cactii(?) were 900 plus years old.
http://www.google.com.ar/images?hl=es&q=hoteles+de+sal+uyuni&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=oYfmTPaWF8T68AaS4Y3jDA&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=2&ved=0CDIQsAQwAQ&biw=1430&bih=663
http://www.google.com.ar/images?um=1&hl=es&biw=1430&bih=663&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=isla+incahuasi+uyuni&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=
Next was the visit to Volcan Tunupa, the most beautiful volcano in the area. Legend has it that she spurned the advances of the male volcanos but one night she got a visit from one and had a baby boy volcano. The male volcano took the little volcano with him and Tunupa was so distraught that she erupted and her milk mixed with her tears and formed the Salar. Gets my vote.
http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Archivo:Volc%C3%A1n_Tunupa_-_Oruro_-_Bolivia.jpg
The Salar is a magical place with the white contrasting with the blue of the sky and the journey continued to Puerto Chuvica and our first salt hotel. We had dinner with a bottle of Bolivian vino collapso and slept very well and were not cold at all. Salt furniture and salt beds are fine. The only problem with salt walls is that their sound insulation capabilities are zero and you could hear a mouse fart in the next room!
http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/page/?o=RrzKj&page_id=170036&v=JR
This entry is here so that you can see what the Salt Hotel looks like. I take no responsibility for the looney tunes who are bicycling on the Saltar!
Friday 5th November (Day 2)
The first place off the Salar was San Juan with an excellent small museum with English translations. Also we visited a pre Inca graveyard with bodies buried in stone hills.
http://www.travelpod.com/travel-photo/vonkaz29/1/1266950555/the-necropolis-in-san-juan.jpg/tpod.html
Then a long journey with fantastic mountains and volcanos to Ollague, a semi live (?) volcano. Not quite sure how you get a semi live one but that is what the guide called it.
http://www.panoramio.com/photo/15302311
We then visited lots of lagunas , Hedionda and the Arbol de Piedra and rock formations in the desert.
http://www.google.com.ar/images?hl=es&q=laguna+hedionda&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=647mTOHULYH_8Ab79dnCCQ&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CCQQsAQwAA&biw=1430&bih=663
We ended up near Laguna Colorada (National Park) and slept at 4200 metres in a primitive hut! We had 8 blankets, a sleeping bag each and the hot water bottles and went to bed with all clothes on. Showers? Hot water? Deam on! It was very windy and the temperature outside in the morning was -10 (without the wind chill).
Saturday 6th November (Day 3)
Off to Laguna Colorada with millions of flamingos.
http://www.google.com.ar/images?um=1&hl=es&biw=1430&bih=663&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=laguna+colorada&aq=f&aqi=g2&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=
Then up to Sol de Manaña (4712 metres asl) for fumaroles
http://www.trekearth.com/gallery/South_America/Bolivia/South/Potosi/Quetena_Grande/photo975302.htm
and then to Aguas Thermales where one could bathe in a hot spring. No takers in our camp.
http://www.minube.com/fotos/rincon/82562/406991
Then off to Laguna Salada and Laguna Verde both in the shadow of Volcan Licancabur (5920 metres asl)
http://www.google.com.ar/images?hl=es&q=laguna+verde,+bolivia&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=mZnmTJW_KY-q8Ab6iMnBDA&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CCAQsAQwAA&biw=1430&bih=663
Next came the Desierto de Dali with very weird rock formations in the desert.
http://www.google.com.ar/images?um=1&hl=es&biw=1430&bih=663&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=desierto+de+Dali&btnG=Buscar&aq=f&aqi=g1&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=
We had a picnic in a town square, the name of which totally eludes me but the one horse had left a long time ago and then we pushed on to San Antonio de Lipez and went through the ghost town ( see picture). Rumour has it that the priest told the villagers that he needed gold from them to make a gold bell. When he got the gold he did a runner and was never seen again. Then wierd things started to happen in the village so everybody left. Not sure when all of this happened but a long time ago.
http://www.viajeros.com/fotos/la-expedicion-al-salar-a-a-a-1a-a-etapa-entre-el-desierto-y-la-altura/260736
We slept in San Antonio which was high but not freezing. Marianne took no chances and had a sleeping bag and two hot water bottles.
Sunday 7th November( Day 4)
We left at 08.00 and had a fantastic drive through mountains, fords, rivers with lots of llamas and most at very high altitude. We arrived Tupiza mid afternoon and checked into the Valle Hermosa hostel. Weather very warm.
We saw a parade in the square in the evening with music and dancing. Miss Bolivia and entourage were in the parade. Tupiza does not possess an ATM!
The 4 day trip was absolutely fantastic and we would totally recommend it to everybody. It was bloody cold 1 night but with sleeping bags and hot water bottles we managed fine.
It seemed that the only restaurants open were Italian, so we had an Italian dinner.
Potosi (4067 metres asl)
Monday 1st November
The 3 hour journey to Potosi from Sucre is wonderful as you travel through very high mountains. The coach was old, very little sitting room and packed. The approach to Potosi is fantastic if you are a fan of open cast mining but total shite if you are not. 95% of Potosi is like this and the 5% downtown is really lovely with lots of old churches and buildings. Like La Paz, Potosi is on a steep slope.
We were offered lunch on the street by two old biddies and went up to the second floor. We were the only customers, tele on. Our 4 course lunch cost GBP1.50 and we were not offered a drink! It was so cold that we went back to the HI Hotel to get the water and wind proofs. Did I mention that we are Hostelling International members. Discount of 10% at any HI establishment. We wandered around and managed to get a machine coffee on the square and it was good.
There are four bus stations in Potosi. Buenos Aires, population 15 million, has one.To find out where the bus station was for Uyuni, our next stop, we walked there using a very dodgy map provided by the hotel. Having got to the bus station, same quality as Valparaiso bus station for crime probability, we were informed that although we had purchased and paid for a ticket for the next day (in Sucre after a phone call), we would not be going anywhere the next day because it was a holiday and no buses were running. I was mildly displeased with this news as it also meant that we would lose the money for the next nights hostel, booked in advance.
Being hardy travellers we saaid "ho, hum" and booked the bus for the following day, rebooked our hotel in Potosi for another night and rebooked the hostal in Uyuni. The weather promises to be warmer tomorrow. It needs to be because it is bloody cold here right now.
Potosi claims to have the highest brewery in the world and proudly says so on all of its beer products, which are OK, by the way. The fact that the new brewery in El Alto (La Paz) sits at 4167 metres asl ,100 metres higher than Potosi, seems to have escaped their attention.
In the Copa de Libertadores (South American equivalent to the European Cup) teams do not like playing in Potosi because the lowland teams have no time to get acclimatised to the altitude and very few if any get a result there.
Whereas you can read about the silver mines in Potosi, and the town is still dominated by the hill where the mines are, a couple of facts still amaze. It is estimated that 8,000,000 (yes 8 million) slaves died while mining silver. Miners today have a life expectancy of 39 years in the silver mines. If you take a tour to the mines ( at your own risk, no insurance) you are offered a stick of dynamite to light and explode. Mind numbing!
http://www.google.com.ar/images?hl=es&q=potosi+bolivia&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=hm3mTOPLHo-t8Abxg-nIDA&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=4&ved=0CD8QsAQwAw&biw=1427&bih=663
Tuesday 2nd November
It is warmer in Potosi today and it is All Souls Day, a national holiday so everything is closed. We wandered around, having another coffee at the cafe on the square ( only travellers, no locals) and I spent far too long in an Internet cafe getting the blog up to date. We took dinner at a nice restaurant recommended by an English guy that we kept bumping into. Most restaurants were closed.
We can walk in Potosi, no problem, but I find that I still puff in the mornings. We need to buy water and lunch for the bus trip to Uyuni (6 1/2 hours tomorrow).
The 3 hour journey to Potosi from Sucre is wonderful as you travel through very high mountains. The coach was old, very little sitting room and packed. The approach to Potosi is fantastic if you are a fan of open cast mining but total shite if you are not. 95% of Potosi is like this and the 5% downtown is really lovely with lots of old churches and buildings. Like La Paz, Potosi is on a steep slope.
We were offered lunch on the street by two old biddies and went up to the second floor. We were the only customers, tele on. Our 4 course lunch cost GBP1.50 and we were not offered a drink! It was so cold that we went back to the HI Hotel to get the water and wind proofs. Did I mention that we are Hostelling International members. Discount of 10% at any HI establishment. We wandered around and managed to get a machine coffee on the square and it was good.
There are four bus stations in Potosi. Buenos Aires, population 15 million, has one.To find out where the bus station was for Uyuni, our next stop, we walked there using a very dodgy map provided by the hotel. Having got to the bus station, same quality as Valparaiso bus station for crime probability, we were informed that although we had purchased and paid for a ticket for the next day (in Sucre after a phone call), we would not be going anywhere the next day because it was a holiday and no buses were running. I was mildly displeased with this news as it also meant that we would lose the money for the next nights hostel, booked in advance.
Being hardy travellers we saaid "ho, hum" and booked the bus for the following day, rebooked our hotel in Potosi for another night and rebooked the hostal in Uyuni. The weather promises to be warmer tomorrow. It needs to be because it is bloody cold here right now.
Potosi claims to have the highest brewery in the world and proudly says so on all of its beer products, which are OK, by the way. The fact that the new brewery in El Alto (La Paz) sits at 4167 metres asl ,100 metres higher than Potosi, seems to have escaped their attention.
In the Copa de Libertadores (South American equivalent to the European Cup) teams do not like playing in Potosi because the lowland teams have no time to get acclimatised to the altitude and very few if any get a result there.
Whereas you can read about the silver mines in Potosi, and the town is still dominated by the hill where the mines are, a couple of facts still amaze. It is estimated that 8,000,000 (yes 8 million) slaves died while mining silver. Miners today have a life expectancy of 39 years in the silver mines. If you take a tour to the mines ( at your own risk, no insurance) you are offered a stick of dynamite to light and explode. Mind numbing!
http://www.google.com.ar/images?hl=es&q=potosi+bolivia&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=hm3mTOPLHo-t8Abxg-nIDA&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=4&ved=0CD8QsAQwAw&biw=1427&bih=663
Tuesday 2nd November
It is warmer in Potosi today and it is All Souls Day, a national holiday so everything is closed. We wandered around, having another coffee at the cafe on the square ( only travellers, no locals) and I spent far too long in an Internet cafe getting the blog up to date. We took dinner at a nice restaurant recommended by an English guy that we kept bumping into. Most restaurants were closed.
We can walk in Potosi, no problem, but I find that I still puff in the mornings. We need to buy water and lunch for the bus trip to Uyuni (6 1/2 hours tomorrow).
Tuesday 2 November 2010
Sucre
Tuesday 27th October pm
At first glance the outskirts of Sucre (2750 metres asl) are the same mess as any Bolivian town but once in the centre you have magnificent colonial buildings and lovely parks and squares. There were very few bowler hats around, this not being the dress of the local inhabitants. Went to the local market, marvellous, and purchased some dinner and pan integral. Breathing not right yet but better than La Paz and I cooked dinner at our hostal La Dolce Vita.
Wednesday 27th October
The hostal is good so we decided to stay for a while and chill out. Had breakfast on the upstairs terrace and it was very warm.Talked to some Swedish girls studying Spanish and noted that I was in short pant at 09.35.
We wandered around in the main square, people watched and politely refused 4 shoe shine boys. We managed to get to the textile museum 10 minutes after it had closed for lunch, so back to the market to buy lunch. After lunch we visited the textile museum featuring indiginous weaving from around Sucre. Two ladies were weaving without a 'pattern' which seeemed difficult to me but Ianne, who has weaved or is it woven, in her time, assured me that it is not quite as difficult as it looked.
Bought some chorizo in the market and cooked up a stew with papas, tomatoes, chilies and macaroni. Talked to 2 Welsh girls and an American couple and we were in bed by 21.30.
Thursday 28th October
Slept better and didnt get up until 8.45. and the breathing was getting better.Very warm up on the terrace and everybody else seems to have had breakfast. We went to the history of dance museum featuring masks of many kinds. Purchased 2 CDs of authentic local music. We walked up to the Mirador overlooking the town with a lovely view and took lunch. The food was very fresh and very good and the total bill was Euro 6.
Very sunny and warm. I cooked dinner at the hostal for Doug and Lauren, two young people from the US and we shared some wine and beer. The Bolivian wine from Concepcion is very nice and inexpensive if you buy it in the shops. Went to bed at 22.30, latest for a long time.
Friday 29th October
Hot, hot, hot. Needed the parasol on the terrace at 08.50. We will try to stay here two more days if we can because we have heard that the students are parading with music and dance tomorrow and Sunday we could visit the famous (it is in Bolivia anyway) market at Tarabuco. We cannot stay here for the two nights in question so the hostal owners have booked us in to the French Consuls House 1 km away. He is their friend and runs a hostal as well as his Consul duties.
Went to the Casa de la Constitucion, a free museum documenting Bolivian history and the struggle for Independence which was gained in 1825. There was a plaque for Nestor Kirchner (died two days ago) on the wall commemorating a fairly recent visit. They had a very old map on the wall showing the countries at that time. Chile owned most of Argentina.
Ianne and I went to a dinner and show called Origines. We really splashed out because a ticket was 125BOBS or GBP12, a fortune in these parts. Show started at 20.15 (we got there at 19.00) and was excellent. We even managed an ice bucket for our Sauvignon Blanc. Maybe 20 dancers in total, dancing old stuff with loads of the masks and costumes we had seen previously in the museums. The show was 2 hours with a 10 minute break. Totally recommended. Then 7 local musicians suitably attired with Bolivian tackle took over. We saw the first half of their act and then decided to go back. The theatre insisted on calling a taxi, not because it was dangerous for us to walk back, but it was too far! Taxi cost GBP1 for a ten minute drive. We got back at the very late time of 23.15. Seems the clocks go back in Europe this weekend. Apparently in Bolivia they never change.
Saturday 30th October
The student parade. Apparently it is 7km long and features 35 ensembles which start out 7 minutes after each other. To cut a long story short (the time of things in Bolivia varies in accordance with the number of people consulted and reality never features) we were on the other side of town at 16.30 when we saw the first group. Very good dancing and band playing. It got cold so we went back to the hostal (at the consulate) for more clothing and caught up with the procession nearer town. It was really excellent and the dancers were putting their all into it. The costumes were fabulous. They were clearly nearly exhausted but kept at it. We went back and a thunderstorm occurred. The last 25 or so groups must have got soaked.
Sunday 31st October
We went by coach to the market at Tarabuco. I was quite disappointed by it. Although being part tourist and part local, there were not as many textiles as we had been led to believe would be there. It was nice, though, to see the locals wearing clothes we had not seen before. Pigs were carved up for sale in wheelbarrows and you got the feeling that the local people had travelled a long way to be there. Ianne had Api con buenos for breakfast . We bought lots of presents and a bag to put them in. What and for whom you will find out much later. Hehehehehe. The journey 62km took 90 minuters through the mountains and the vistas were stunning.
When we got back we discovered that there was a Harley Davidson convention in town and there were lots of Harleys and BMWs and a huge honda parked up.
We really enjoyed Sucre, the first Capital City of Bolivia and, looking back through the blog, I can see no mention of breath for the last few days. We must now be acclimatised, at last.
At first glance the outskirts of Sucre (2750 metres asl) are the same mess as any Bolivian town but once in the centre you have magnificent colonial buildings and lovely parks and squares. There were very few bowler hats around, this not being the dress of the local inhabitants. Went to the local market, marvellous, and purchased some dinner and pan integral. Breathing not right yet but better than La Paz and I cooked dinner at our hostal La Dolce Vita.
Wednesday 27th October
The hostal is good so we decided to stay for a while and chill out. Had breakfast on the upstairs terrace and it was very warm.Talked to some Swedish girls studying Spanish and noted that I was in short pant at 09.35.
We wandered around in the main square, people watched and politely refused 4 shoe shine boys. We managed to get to the textile museum 10 minutes after it had closed for lunch, so back to the market to buy lunch. After lunch we visited the textile museum featuring indiginous weaving from around Sucre. Two ladies were weaving without a 'pattern' which seeemed difficult to me but Ianne, who has weaved or is it woven, in her time, assured me that it is not quite as difficult as it looked.
Bought some chorizo in the market and cooked up a stew with papas, tomatoes, chilies and macaroni. Talked to 2 Welsh girls and an American couple and we were in bed by 21.30.
Thursday 28th October
Slept better and didnt get up until 8.45. and the breathing was getting better.Very warm up on the terrace and everybody else seems to have had breakfast. We went to the history of dance museum featuring masks of many kinds. Purchased 2 CDs of authentic local music. We walked up to the Mirador overlooking the town with a lovely view and took lunch. The food was very fresh and very good and the total bill was Euro 6.
Very sunny and warm. I cooked dinner at the hostal for Doug and Lauren, two young people from the US and we shared some wine and beer. The Bolivian wine from Concepcion is very nice and inexpensive if you buy it in the shops. Went to bed at 22.30, latest for a long time.
Friday 29th October
Hot, hot, hot. Needed the parasol on the terrace at 08.50. We will try to stay here two more days if we can because we have heard that the students are parading with music and dance tomorrow and Sunday we could visit the famous (it is in Bolivia anyway) market at Tarabuco. We cannot stay here for the two nights in question so the hostal owners have booked us in to the French Consuls House 1 km away. He is their friend and runs a hostal as well as his Consul duties.
Went to the Casa de la Constitucion, a free museum documenting Bolivian history and the struggle for Independence which was gained in 1825. There was a plaque for Nestor Kirchner (died two days ago) on the wall commemorating a fairly recent visit. They had a very old map on the wall showing the countries at that time. Chile owned most of Argentina.
Ianne and I went to a dinner and show called Origines. We really splashed out because a ticket was 125BOBS or GBP12, a fortune in these parts. Show started at 20.15 (we got there at 19.00) and was excellent. We even managed an ice bucket for our Sauvignon Blanc. Maybe 20 dancers in total, dancing old stuff with loads of the masks and costumes we had seen previously in the museums. The show was 2 hours with a 10 minute break. Totally recommended. Then 7 local musicians suitably attired with Bolivian tackle took over. We saw the first half of their act and then decided to go back. The theatre insisted on calling a taxi, not because it was dangerous for us to walk back, but it was too far! Taxi cost GBP1 for a ten minute drive. We got back at the very late time of 23.15. Seems the clocks go back in Europe this weekend. Apparently in Bolivia they never change.
Saturday 30th October
The student parade. Apparently it is 7km long and features 35 ensembles which start out 7 minutes after each other. To cut a long story short (the time of things in Bolivia varies in accordance with the number of people consulted and reality never features) we were on the other side of town at 16.30 when we saw the first group. Very good dancing and band playing. It got cold so we went back to the hostal (at the consulate) for more clothing and caught up with the procession nearer town. It was really excellent and the dancers were putting their all into it. The costumes were fabulous. They were clearly nearly exhausted but kept at it. We went back and a thunderstorm occurred. The last 25 or so groups must have got soaked.
Sunday 31st October
We went by coach to the market at Tarabuco. I was quite disappointed by it. Although being part tourist and part local, there were not as many textiles as we had been led to believe would be there. It was nice, though, to see the locals wearing clothes we had not seen before. Pigs were carved up for sale in wheelbarrows and you got the feeling that the local people had travelled a long way to be there. Ianne had Api con buenos for breakfast . We bought lots of presents and a bag to put them in. What and for whom you will find out much later. Hehehehehe. The journey 62km took 90 minuters through the mountains and the vistas were stunning.
When we got back we discovered that there was a Harley Davidson convention in town and there were lots of Harleys and BMWs and a huge honda parked up.
We really enjoyed Sucre, the first Capital City of Bolivia and, looking back through the blog, I can see no mention of breath for the last few days. We must now be acclimatised, at last.
La Paz (Again)
Monday 25th October
The hostal bus took us, for free, the 700 metres downhill to catch the bus to La Paz. Very warm day. We asked the tour operator if the bus would drop us at Hotel Saranaga. Oh yes, of course. Only complete cretinos trust these people who are marginally more (dis)honest than estate agents.
Oh ye of little faith. Not only did the bus stop there but it was the only place it did stop and there were a lot of pissed off people as a result, who wanted to go to the bus terminal. The manager welcomed us back with open arms as though we were long lost friends. Our previous room was OK at 50 Bobs but this time we went upmarket at 60 Bobs(GBP6) per person. It was difficult to know what the difference was, but we were certainly on the second floor now and the shower curtain nearly stopped the water running all over the bathroom floor and there were fewer holes in the bathroom floor. I think the major difference though, was that there was a better quality of all night coughing and snoring coming from another of the rooms on the second floor.
We went round shopping for a tablecloth for our Tavizna patio, but to no avail and we sent an email to Pepi to measure the table for us so that we didnt buy the wrong size. We were going to buy a local bag for the presents we had accumulated but Aerosur, our airline to Sucre, only allows 2 cabin bags of 7kgs each so that kicked that idea into touch.
Ianne tried on a poncho for Lise but it was decided that she would not wear such a thing in London and so that idea was abandoned. Wandering around La Paz in the evening was easier breathing wise but the fumes and milliones de gentes (loadsa people) made moving about difficult. We went to bed quite early but didnt sleep that well. We concluded we had walked up too many steep hill paths the day before and now we were paying the price.
Tuesday 26th October am
Had a little coffee at the Snack El Montes (hotel breakfast from 07.30) , altitude 3600 metres, directly opposite the Hotel and at 07.27 the traffic fumes were nearly overwhelming. In Bolivia life expectancy is 60 for men and 62 for women. You get pension and free health care from age 65. Catch 22?
Took a taxi up to the airport at El Alto (4200 metres) and weighed in the back packs at a total of 25kg. The airport is modern and very nice and contrary to the advice of Lonely Planet, April 2010, there are loads of ATMs. The Boeing 737-300 flight to Sucre left and arrived 10 minutes early, a total duration of 38 minutes and you could take any sort of liquid, in any quantity, on board. International Standards. Pah. Also a little snack was served. AeroSur is now 18 years old and flies in Europe. I will check out London to Madrid as an example. The bus from La Paz to Sucre takes 11 hours.
The hostal bus took us, for free, the 700 metres downhill to catch the bus to La Paz. Very warm day. We asked the tour operator if the bus would drop us at Hotel Saranaga. Oh yes, of course. Only complete cretinos trust these people who are marginally more (dis)honest than estate agents.
Oh ye of little faith. Not only did the bus stop there but it was the only place it did stop and there were a lot of pissed off people as a result, who wanted to go to the bus terminal. The manager welcomed us back with open arms as though we were long lost friends. Our previous room was OK at 50 Bobs but this time we went upmarket at 60 Bobs(GBP6) per person. It was difficult to know what the difference was, but we were certainly on the second floor now and the shower curtain nearly stopped the water running all over the bathroom floor and there were fewer holes in the bathroom floor. I think the major difference though, was that there was a better quality of all night coughing and snoring coming from another of the rooms on the second floor.
We went round shopping for a tablecloth for our Tavizna patio, but to no avail and we sent an email to Pepi to measure the table for us so that we didnt buy the wrong size. We were going to buy a local bag for the presents we had accumulated but Aerosur, our airline to Sucre, only allows 2 cabin bags of 7kgs each so that kicked that idea into touch.
Ianne tried on a poncho for Lise but it was decided that she would not wear such a thing in London and so that idea was abandoned. Wandering around La Paz in the evening was easier breathing wise but the fumes and milliones de gentes (loadsa people) made moving about difficult. We went to bed quite early but didnt sleep that well. We concluded we had walked up too many steep hill paths the day before and now we were paying the price.
Tuesday 26th October am
Had a little coffee at the Snack El Montes (hotel breakfast from 07.30) , altitude 3600 metres, directly opposite the Hotel and at 07.27 the traffic fumes were nearly overwhelming. In Bolivia life expectancy is 60 for men and 62 for women. You get pension and free health care from age 65. Catch 22?
Took a taxi up to the airport at El Alto (4200 metres) and weighed in the back packs at a total of 25kg. The airport is modern and very nice and contrary to the advice of Lonely Planet, April 2010, there are loads of ATMs. The Boeing 737-300 flight to Sucre left and arrived 10 minutes early, a total duration of 38 minutes and you could take any sort of liquid, in any quantity, on board. International Standards. Pah. Also a little snack was served. AeroSur is now 18 years old and flies in Europe. I will check out London to Madrid as an example. The bus from La Paz to Sucre takes 11 hours.
Copacobana and Lake Titicaca
Thursday 21 October
Breakfast at the hotel was delayed until 7.30 because the Argentine football Team, Newells Old Boys, Argie premier league were also staying.We went over the road for breakfast and were still there when the bus arrived early at 7.26 not 7.30.
When you leave El Alto, and are always very glad to, you are in green valleys with sheep farming. Due to the rain and grass it would appear to be a little bit better than subsistence farming and the buildings are both brick and adobe. All buildings and walls have Vote Evo on them.
We crossed the lake on the boat and our coach came on the barge. We then had a 1 hour spectacular drive to Copacobana and the lake. Our Hostal, Utama was two blocks up the hill and one along and the room was on a corner with views over the town and lake. This is a good place. Towels, toilet paper, a mat for the bathroom floor and a free bottle of water on the table. All this for Eur 15 for two people per night. The room even had a table, two chairs and an armchair.
We took a walk along the lake shore..not so many vistors now but will be very busy in summer. Temperatures 8 to 14 all year it says. All restaurants feature trout which are grown in hatcheries in the lake.
We hired a boat to go to the Islas Flotantes. 90 minute trip cost Eur 14. Apparently the Bolivian floating islands are for tourists like us and the Peruvian ones are the real ones. We are still struggling with the breath after La Paz. We had dinner in a restaurant with a fire. It is cold here at night. We had a thunderstorm and got a little wet going back up to the hotel as being totally out of breath. The lake is 3900 metres above sea level.
Friday 22 October
Free breakfast of pancake, jam, cornflakes, yoghurt, tea or coffee, salt biscuits, roll and a plate of scrambled eggs with ham and cheese. Sorry I forgot the toast and butter. We are taking it easy today because of the altitude. Copacobana is like San Pedro de Atacama with the number of tourists but is has paved roads and many more local people. Got the La Paz blog up to date and purchased 3 authentic CDs of Bolivian Folk Music and 2 DVDs. You will all get the chance to listen to these and admire them, ad nauseam, on our return. It says Copyright and I think they have been copied right. We are very happy walking round town and the sun is blazing.
We visited the Cathedral 1583, sorry no cactus, and saw the statue of the Black Virgin whose statue caused lots of miracles at that time when it was placed in the church. It was officially canonised in 1925 and local lore says that the lake will flood with disastrous consequences if the statue is ever moved. I do read some good guide books dont I.
We have started a new book on the most courtyards one has to cross before being able to pee pee. The Public Bano by the bus stop has 3 with a total meterage of about 40 to be walked before the call of nature can be answered.
Back at the hotel a man was typing a shipping manifest on a typewriter. Apparently some documents must be typed in Bolivia and word processed documents are not acceptable. It is year 2010. Feeling a little better with the altitude.
Saturday 23rd October
Sunny and took a 7km walk round the lake to the Bano de Inca and museum and could tell afterwards that we had done it, puff, puff. Out in the fields there were lots of photo opportunities with indiginous people working in the fields. No problem with the photo but you have to pay afterwards. We had such a large lunch that no dinner was eaten and we were in bed by 20.00
Sunday 24th October
Isla del Sol. After two hours on the boat we got off on the north of the island. We walked uphill for a very long time and it was a hard slog. Beautiful views from the heights above 400 metres and saw lots of Inca things.
http://www.google.com.bo/images?hl=es&q=isla+del+sol&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=0zDQTPreBoH88AbCtIXdBg&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=2&ved=0CBcQsAQwAQ
It took only 35 minutes to get back to the boat, downhill and we sailed back to the south of the island where the whole boat were too knackered to climb the steps to see more Inca ruins. On the way out the water was choppy but on the way back it was as calm as a mill pond. The lake is so blue and the surrounding hills are olive green. It is beautiful and one can imagine why the Incas held it in such awe.
I took a Thai curry at the Bistrot Cafe in Copacobana which took 50 minutes to arrive and did not taste anything like Thai curry. I had very bad dreams and the breathing was not good. The combination of a dodgy curry and the exertions of the day must have been to blame.
We really should have not gone from Arica, sea level to La Paz, 4000 metres but should have stopped somewhere on the way up. Anybody thinking of going to altitude take this comment on board. Slowly, slowly, catchee monkey.
Next stop is Sucre which is at a modest 2750 metres so that will be ok.
Breakfast at the hotel was delayed until 7.30 because the Argentine football Team, Newells Old Boys, Argie premier league were also staying.We went over the road for breakfast and were still there when the bus arrived early at 7.26 not 7.30.
When you leave El Alto, and are always very glad to, you are in green valleys with sheep farming. Due to the rain and grass it would appear to be a little bit better than subsistence farming and the buildings are both brick and adobe. All buildings and walls have Vote Evo on them.
We crossed the lake on the boat and our coach came on the barge. We then had a 1 hour spectacular drive to Copacobana and the lake. Our Hostal, Utama was two blocks up the hill and one along and the room was on a corner with views over the town and lake. This is a good place. Towels, toilet paper, a mat for the bathroom floor and a free bottle of water on the table. All this for Eur 15 for two people per night. The room even had a table, two chairs and an armchair.
We took a walk along the lake shore..not so many vistors now but will be very busy in summer. Temperatures 8 to 14 all year it says. All restaurants feature trout which are grown in hatcheries in the lake.
We hired a boat to go to the Islas Flotantes. 90 minute trip cost Eur 14. Apparently the Bolivian floating islands are for tourists like us and the Peruvian ones are the real ones. We are still struggling with the breath after La Paz. We had dinner in a restaurant with a fire. It is cold here at night. We had a thunderstorm and got a little wet going back up to the hotel as being totally out of breath. The lake is 3900 metres above sea level.
Friday 22 October
Free breakfast of pancake, jam, cornflakes, yoghurt, tea or coffee, salt biscuits, roll and a plate of scrambled eggs with ham and cheese. Sorry I forgot the toast and butter. We are taking it easy today because of the altitude. Copacobana is like San Pedro de Atacama with the number of tourists but is has paved roads and many more local people. Got the La Paz blog up to date and purchased 3 authentic CDs of Bolivian Folk Music and 2 DVDs. You will all get the chance to listen to these and admire them, ad nauseam, on our return. It says Copyright and I think they have been copied right. We are very happy walking round town and the sun is blazing.
We visited the Cathedral 1583, sorry no cactus, and saw the statue of the Black Virgin whose statue caused lots of miracles at that time when it was placed in the church. It was officially canonised in 1925 and local lore says that the lake will flood with disastrous consequences if the statue is ever moved. I do read some good guide books dont I.
We have started a new book on the most courtyards one has to cross before being able to pee pee. The Public Bano by the bus stop has 3 with a total meterage of about 40 to be walked before the call of nature can be answered.
Back at the hotel a man was typing a shipping manifest on a typewriter. Apparently some documents must be typed in Bolivia and word processed documents are not acceptable. It is year 2010. Feeling a little better with the altitude.
Saturday 23rd October
Sunny and took a 7km walk round the lake to the Bano de Inca and museum and could tell afterwards that we had done it, puff, puff. Out in the fields there were lots of photo opportunities with indiginous people working in the fields. No problem with the photo but you have to pay afterwards. We had such a large lunch that no dinner was eaten and we were in bed by 20.00
Sunday 24th October
Isla del Sol. After two hours on the boat we got off on the north of the island. We walked uphill for a very long time and it was a hard slog. Beautiful views from the heights above 400 metres and saw lots of Inca things.
http://www.google.com.bo/images?hl=es&q=isla+del+sol&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=0zDQTPreBoH88AbCtIXdBg&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=2&ved=0CBcQsAQwAQ
It took only 35 minutes to get back to the boat, downhill and we sailed back to the south of the island where the whole boat were too knackered to climb the steps to see more Inca ruins. On the way out the water was choppy but on the way back it was as calm as a mill pond. The lake is so blue and the surrounding hills are olive green. It is beautiful and one can imagine why the Incas held it in such awe.
I took a Thai curry at the Bistrot Cafe in Copacobana which took 50 minutes to arrive and did not taste anything like Thai curry. I had very bad dreams and the breathing was not good. The combination of a dodgy curry and the exertions of the day must have been to blame.
We really should have not gone from Arica, sea level to La Paz, 4000 metres but should have stopped somewhere on the way up. Anybody thinking of going to altitude take this comment on board. Slowly, slowly, catchee monkey.
Next stop is Sucre which is at a modest 2750 metres so that will be ok.
Friday 22 October 2010
La Paz
Monday 18th October
Took 10 o'clock bus from Arica to La Paz. On the way out of town the bus stopped for "cash" customers. The money was shared equally between the conductor and driver. We were on the Bolivian Nordic bus and got front seats. We had to pay CLP200 to leave the bus station. Apparently this is common practice in Bolivia and Peru but it was a first for us. Bolivian time 1 hour behind Chile. The speedometer on the bus does not work! Going up, up, up. Parque Lorca absolutely stunning . Camera battery ran out! We were at Tungua at 4500 metres with snow capped volcanoes and lakes. A queue of 5 kilometres of trucks was waiting to cross from Bolivia into Chile!!! How long??? Crossed into Bolivia at 4660 metres.
At 14.00 the bus stopped when 30 minutes into Bolivia. Over heating big time. No mobile signal for the driver!!! Being stuck is one thing, at 4500 metres is another! Driver says a relief bus will be with us in 2-3 hours. How he knows this is not understandable. This place we stopped is in the middle of nowhere and suddenly a minibus appears and 9 of us load into it to go to La Paz. This recommended by a lady with joint Bolivian/Chilean nationality who speaks English! The journey is not good. Cramped. Maybe 200-300 km, who knows. The fare is BOBS 25 (or GBP 2.40) . No that is not a mistake!
Many, many llamas in the green valleys. They are a bloody nuisance because they have no road sense and cross right in front of the minibus. Approaching La Paz snow covered mountains and subsistence agriculture.
The people look as poor as church mice and there are ladies in bowler hats and full regalia ploughing the fields with cows. Nearly all buildings adobe. God alone knows about sanitation. The road in leads to El Alto, which is the indigenous capital of Bolivia and looks it! Having negotiated a fee of 25 per person the driver plans to drop us in Al Alto (makes a ghetto look like a Sunday School Outing) so the passengers revolt and a new fee of 40 BOBS or under GBP 4 is negotiated to take us the 10 km up then down the hill to the bus station. La Paz has seriously steep roads everywhere. All of the mini bus passengers (we go with the flow) now go to the Nordic Bus counter at the terminal and scream and shout for half an hour to get the 40 BOBS back. We were totally knackered but had to support our new found friends. Eventually they all got 40 BOBS discount on the return fare. No use to us because we were not going back.
Our new Chilean/Bolivian friend also told us that there was no way we could stay at the hostel we had booked because the area was far too dodgy! So 3 couples, us included piled into 2 taxis to the Hotel Saranaga which is 100 metres off the main drag "El Prado" and got a double, ensuite for GBP10 including breakfast. We asked for a local restaurant and were guided to one nearby. Food perfectly fine and inexpensive. Crawled into bed altitude sick and exhausted at 21.30. What a day! Now we really are having "adventures"
Tuesday 19th October
Bread for breakfast was better than anything in Chile. ATM just outside hotel so got some BOBS (Bolivanos or Pesos). Walked down to San Francisco church, (no cactus involved) and millions of people and women in Bowler Hats and big skirts everywhere. Found the tourist office and it had closed ten minutes before. Sat down and people watched then went down "El Prado" to a "South American Cultural Promotion" on Plaza Estudiantes right by the University. Saw some children doing local dances. Had another coffee stop with Te Coca for Mummy. A new feature never seen before is the "tout" who leans out of the collectivo minibus shouting out where the bus is going. There are a lot of "Jeepnies" like Manilla. Multicoloured minibuses. Went on the cheapest City Bus Tour of all time BOBS50. Very good and very good value. "The North Face" has a shop in La Paz.
To celebrate 200 yeas of La Paz there was a spectacular with loads of indiginous dancing, singing etc. We watched maybe 8 performances and then got a bit cold so we went back to nearby the hotel for some dinner.
Summary of day 1 in La Paz. Polluted beyond belief with traffic fumes, millions of cars, minibuses, coaches and people. That alone makes the breathing difficult never mind the altitude, just under 4000 metres. Having a good time though.
Wednesday 20th October
Booked to go to Lake Titicaca tomorrow on a proper coach. The price difference between that and a possibly very dodgy "collectivo" is GBP2, not worth the risk. Wandered down "El Prado" and calculated how many BOBS we would need for the next few days, Copacabana has no ATM! Posted some postcards to Spain and Denmark. Wonder how long they will take? Lady in post office assured us that all mail outside Bolivia goes by air. Got presents for Hanne, Coby and Spanish chicas but not going to tell you what they are, except Lise and Chad might not be too pleased with 1 present for Coby, jejejejeje!
Tried the Bolivian Sauvignon Blanc. Yes there is such a thing and sorry Tito Michael, the Letchworth Barolo does not get near this splendid wine! Have to get up at 06.30 tomorrow. All Bolivian restaurants are dimly lit but the food is fine and typically pastas, chips, burgers, salads, lomitos etc and always nicely cooked. Sprinkling of rain, first on tour. Millions of school children wandering up and down "El Prado".
Took 10 o'clock bus from Arica to La Paz. On the way out of town the bus stopped for "cash" customers. The money was shared equally between the conductor and driver. We were on the Bolivian Nordic bus and got front seats. We had to pay CLP200 to leave the bus station. Apparently this is common practice in Bolivia and Peru but it was a first for us. Bolivian time 1 hour behind Chile. The speedometer on the bus does not work! Going up, up, up. Parque Lorca absolutely stunning . Camera battery ran out! We were at Tungua at 4500 metres with snow capped volcanoes and lakes. A queue of 5 kilometres of trucks was waiting to cross from Bolivia into Chile!!! How long??? Crossed into Bolivia at 4660 metres.
At 14.00 the bus stopped when 30 minutes into Bolivia. Over heating big time. No mobile signal for the driver!!! Being stuck is one thing, at 4500 metres is another! Driver says a relief bus will be with us in 2-3 hours. How he knows this is not understandable. This place we stopped is in the middle of nowhere and suddenly a minibus appears and 9 of us load into it to go to La Paz. This recommended by a lady with joint Bolivian/Chilean nationality who speaks English! The journey is not good. Cramped. Maybe 200-300 km, who knows. The fare is BOBS 25 (or GBP 2.40) . No that is not a mistake!
Many, many llamas in the green valleys. They are a bloody nuisance because they have no road sense and cross right in front of the minibus. Approaching La Paz snow covered mountains and subsistence agriculture.
The people look as poor as church mice and there are ladies in bowler hats and full regalia ploughing the fields with cows. Nearly all buildings adobe. God alone knows about sanitation. The road in leads to El Alto, which is the indigenous capital of Bolivia and looks it! Having negotiated a fee of 25 per person the driver plans to drop us in Al Alto (makes a ghetto look like a Sunday School Outing) so the passengers revolt and a new fee of 40 BOBS or under GBP 4 is negotiated to take us the 10 km up then down the hill to the bus station. La Paz has seriously steep roads everywhere. All of the mini bus passengers (we go with the flow) now go to the Nordic Bus counter at the terminal and scream and shout for half an hour to get the 40 BOBS back. We were totally knackered but had to support our new found friends. Eventually they all got 40 BOBS discount on the return fare. No use to us because we were not going back.
Our new Chilean/Bolivian friend also told us that there was no way we could stay at the hostel we had booked because the area was far too dodgy! So 3 couples, us included piled into 2 taxis to the Hotel Saranaga which is 100 metres off the main drag "El Prado" and got a double, ensuite for GBP10 including breakfast. We asked for a local restaurant and were guided to one nearby. Food perfectly fine and inexpensive. Crawled into bed altitude sick and exhausted at 21.30. What a day! Now we really are having "adventures"
Tuesday 19th October
Bread for breakfast was better than anything in Chile. ATM just outside hotel so got some BOBS (Bolivanos or Pesos). Walked down to San Francisco church, (no cactus involved) and millions of people and women in Bowler Hats and big skirts everywhere. Found the tourist office and it had closed ten minutes before. Sat down and people watched then went down "El Prado" to a "South American Cultural Promotion" on Plaza Estudiantes right by the University. Saw some children doing local dances. Had another coffee stop with Te Coca for Mummy. A new feature never seen before is the "tout" who leans out of the collectivo minibus shouting out where the bus is going. There are a lot of "Jeepnies" like Manilla. Multicoloured minibuses. Went on the cheapest City Bus Tour of all time BOBS50. Very good and very good value. "The North Face" has a shop in La Paz.
To celebrate 200 yeas of La Paz there was a spectacular with loads of indiginous dancing, singing etc. We watched maybe 8 performances and then got a bit cold so we went back to nearby the hotel for some dinner.
Summary of day 1 in La Paz. Polluted beyond belief with traffic fumes, millions of cars, minibuses, coaches and people. That alone makes the breathing difficult never mind the altitude, just under 4000 metres. Having a good time though.
Wednesday 20th October
Booked to go to Lake Titicaca tomorrow on a proper coach. The price difference between that and a possibly very dodgy "collectivo" is GBP2, not worth the risk. Wandered down "El Prado" and calculated how many BOBS we would need for the next few days, Copacabana has no ATM! Posted some postcards to Spain and Denmark. Wonder how long they will take? Lady in post office assured us that all mail outside Bolivia goes by air. Got presents for Hanne, Coby and Spanish chicas but not going to tell you what they are, except Lise and Chad might not be too pleased with 1 present for Coby, jejejejeje!
Tried the Bolivian Sauvignon Blanc. Yes there is such a thing and sorry Tito Michael, the Letchworth Barolo does not get near this splendid wine! Have to get up at 06.30 tomorrow. All Bolivian restaurants are dimly lit but the food is fine and typically pastas, chips, burgers, salads, lomitos etc and always nicely cooked. Sprinkling of rain, first on tour. Millions of school children wandering up and down "El Prado".
Friday 15 October 2010
San Pedro de Atacama
Monday 11th October.
Got up at 06.30 for the bus to San Pedro de Atacama @ 08.00 for a 10 hour journey. North of Chañaral desert, desert, desert. This time we took Turbus and it was the first time that our headphones for the videos worked. Will not travel with Elquibus again. The film was with Bruce Lee and Jet Li. Normal Kung Fuey but at least we could hear the words although Marianne soon lost interest. On Pan Am going north to Arica 1000km. Desert, desert etc and got to Antofogasta in 5 hours, half way. We managed to sit in the front of the bus bewtween Calama and San Pedsro, about 90 minutes. Arrived SP in 10 hours 30 minutes.
San Pedro is a desert tourist village with hostels, hotels, tour operators, restaurants, internet cafes, dirt roads and millions of tourists. I had a monster head ache which could be the change in altitude and we both had motion sickness. San Pedro is 2300 metres above sea level. We booked into a Residential which we had recommended to us by a traveller we had spoken with in La Serena. We had a three bed room for the price of two. Can´t be bad. Only milk to be found, full cream. Only bread to be found, white.
Tuesday 12 October
Not planning to do a lot today and will try to get acclimatised before we take trips up to the altiplano at up to 4500 metres. Not cold overnight and we wandered round trying to find our feet (they were attached to our legs of course, don´t laugh , it will only encourage him) . Visited the church (notable for the use of cactus wood throughout) and the history of Atacama museum. This was excellent. Found a decent Internet cafe and tried to hook the camera up so that we could put pictures on the blog. Not a prayer. Photos will have to wait until we get to back to Cordoba, November 19th ish. Also we think this camera is crap so we will buy another one when we next get to a town of any size. Not many Brazilians here but loads of French, German, Dutch tourists.
We have to be careful in the restaurants as the bill can get quite large, quite quickly especially with a glass of average "tinto" @ GBP3. Beautiful sunset. Booked for Valle de la Luna tomorrow and Flamingoes and Lakes and Altiplano on Thursday and Geysers on Friday.
Wednesday 13th October
Decided to go directly to Arica on the overnight bus on Friday night and booked a hostel. Bus arrives 05.30 Saturday. We said we would be arriving at hostel 06.00. Only time will tell what will happen when we arrive. Bought some steak, tomatoes and onions for dinner to be washed down with some Errazuriz Cab Sauv 2009 at about GBP3.
Went on the Valley of the Moon trip at 16.00 and first went to Death Valley where lots of people were sandboarding. Cedd has done this he says! Next a cave system which involved crawling on all 4´s and finally a nice uphill walk on heavy sand for 20 minutes to get to the top of the ridge to see the sunset. Lots of people. There was a spectacular sunset when the mountains and volcanoes looking to the west turned red.
We got back at 20.30 for dinner and at 22.00 the church bells rang out and this coincided with an air raid siren ( we found out later it was the fire department) both making a fearful racket. It transpired that the last miner had been rescued and this was the cue for the noise.
Thursday 14th October
Up at 06.00 for the trip and it was bloody cold. The minibus went directly to Laguna Chaxa where we saw the sun rise over the salt lakes and lots of flamingoes. A super spectacle but freezing cold. There was still ice on the lakes. The air was fantastically clear. Our guide, who had lived for 3 years in Richmond, Surrey , had the breakfast. Hot coffee with ham and cheese and rolls and biscuits. This is in the Saltar de Atacama the third largest salt lake in the world.
On the the village of Socaire @2700 metres and the only reason this village exists is because it has a river flowing through it. We had to walk for 15 minutes because we were now going up to the altiplano at 4500metres+. On the way up we came across a fox and the little tinkerbell just sat there looking at the minibus and posing for photos (or so it seemed).
Up and up to the volcanic lakes at Miscanti and Miñiques. At this point we were only a few kilometres from the crossing into Argentina at 4600 metres. Although the lakes were blue, blue, blue and the sun was shining it was still quite chilly. Then we saw a herd of Vicuña and they probably liked it there because of the water.
I was quite light headed although the walking was ok and on the way back down there were three trucks headed for Salta. At the unremarkable pueblo of Tocono we were invited into a little old lady´s shop. Native handicrafts etc but at the back she had 2 llamas and two very woolly sheep. We bought a miniature llama for Ianne´s shelf. Warmest day so far.
Got back at 13.00 and I got the written blog up to date. Tomorrow we have to be up at 03.30 for a 04.00 pickup and we have been told to expect temperatures of between -10 and -20. Full load of thermal underwear and complete "North Face" protection required. We both bought woolly hats and woolly gloves. Did not expect this until Patagonia!
Apart from a propensity to turn the electric (and the water to the toilet) off at 21.00 the hostel is very good.
Chilean joke. The guide told me that he and the driver had Argentian blood. He then pointed to his knuckles and the front of the minibus!!!!
Spent 2 hours 15 minutes in the Internet cafe getting the blog up to date.The man said the bill should be CLP2000 but where was mummy from. Denmark. Then the bill would only be CLP1000 because his grandfather was Danish and his name was Petersen. We have had lots of discounts for being old but have never had a Nationality discount before.
Friday 15th October
Up at the unchristly hour of 03.30 ready for the 04.00-04.30 pick up for the El Tatioo Geyser Tour. At 4.35 the minibus arrived much to our relief. Ianne was wearing a swimming costume, knickers, thermal trousers and vest, 3 T shirts, 1 long sleeved T-shirt, cardigan, fleece, ski jacket (with hood up) plus new woolly hat, gloves and scarf (non-itchy)I had similar. We thought we would not need this tackle until Patagonia! 90minutes of very bad road and darkness later we arrived at the geysers. Temperature outside -10C.
After a call of nature we went to the geyser fields where, at 10 minutes to sun up, the temperature was -14C and bloody freezing cold. At first sun up people actually shed all of their togs and waded into the thermal pool. There must have been 20 or so people bathing. Dear reader, I will let you decide whether either Jack or Marianne bathed.
Back to the minibus for coffee, cheese sandwiches and biscuits. We were both as cold as frozen turds. We were at 4500 metres altitude so that could explain something. Despite the early start the geysers are pretty amazing and once inside the bus we began to thaw out.
Next stop was a bridge over the river Putana ( yes that is the correct name) which emanates from the volcano of the same name. Lots of nice birds and ice in the river at 4200 metres asl.
Onwards to the village of Machua population 8, where we had fresh cooked empanadas (delicious) , llama kebabs (pinchitos) and a cup of tea with herbs supposed to reduce altitude sickness. I was a little light headed but not really surprising given the heights.
Going back we saw a small herd of llamas feeding in the river, all llamas being domestic animals. Then on the way to cactus valley we saw our first heard of guanacos. Cactus valley is nice with a river running through that eventually irrigates San Pedro. Lots of very large cactii whose name escapes me but all are protected species.
Got back about 12, packed and put the cases into Hostel storage for our departure this evening. Had a light lunch and endeavoured (and succeeded) in bringing this blog up to date. Whew!
Weather here 25-30C Sunny and hot.
Got up at 06.30 for the bus to San Pedro de Atacama @ 08.00 for a 10 hour journey. North of Chañaral desert, desert, desert. This time we took Turbus and it was the first time that our headphones for the videos worked. Will not travel with Elquibus again. The film was with Bruce Lee and Jet Li. Normal Kung Fuey but at least we could hear the words although Marianne soon lost interest. On Pan Am going north to Arica 1000km. Desert, desert etc and got to Antofogasta in 5 hours, half way. We managed to sit in the front of the bus bewtween Calama and San Pedsro, about 90 minutes. Arrived SP in 10 hours 30 minutes.
San Pedro is a desert tourist village with hostels, hotels, tour operators, restaurants, internet cafes, dirt roads and millions of tourists. I had a monster head ache which could be the change in altitude and we both had motion sickness. San Pedro is 2300 metres above sea level. We booked into a Residential which we had recommended to us by a traveller we had spoken with in La Serena. We had a three bed room for the price of two. Can´t be bad. Only milk to be found, full cream. Only bread to be found, white.
Tuesday 12 October
Not planning to do a lot today and will try to get acclimatised before we take trips up to the altiplano at up to 4500 metres. Not cold overnight and we wandered round trying to find our feet (they were attached to our legs of course, don´t laugh , it will only encourage him) . Visited the church (notable for the use of cactus wood throughout) and the history of Atacama museum. This was excellent. Found a decent Internet cafe and tried to hook the camera up so that we could put pictures on the blog. Not a prayer. Photos will have to wait until we get to back to Cordoba, November 19th ish. Also we think this camera is crap so we will buy another one when we next get to a town of any size. Not many Brazilians here but loads of French, German, Dutch tourists.
We have to be careful in the restaurants as the bill can get quite large, quite quickly especially with a glass of average "tinto" @ GBP3. Beautiful sunset. Booked for Valle de la Luna tomorrow and Flamingoes and Lakes and Altiplano on Thursday and Geysers on Friday.
Wednesday 13th October
Decided to go directly to Arica on the overnight bus on Friday night and booked a hostel. Bus arrives 05.30 Saturday. We said we would be arriving at hostel 06.00. Only time will tell what will happen when we arrive. Bought some steak, tomatoes and onions for dinner to be washed down with some Errazuriz Cab Sauv 2009 at about GBP3.
Went on the Valley of the Moon trip at 16.00 and first went to Death Valley where lots of people were sandboarding. Cedd has done this he says! Next a cave system which involved crawling on all 4´s and finally a nice uphill walk on heavy sand for 20 minutes to get to the top of the ridge to see the sunset. Lots of people. There was a spectacular sunset when the mountains and volcanoes looking to the west turned red.
We got back at 20.30 for dinner and at 22.00 the church bells rang out and this coincided with an air raid siren ( we found out later it was the fire department) both making a fearful racket. It transpired that the last miner had been rescued and this was the cue for the noise.
Thursday 14th October
Up at 06.00 for the trip and it was bloody cold. The minibus went directly to Laguna Chaxa where we saw the sun rise over the salt lakes and lots of flamingoes. A super spectacle but freezing cold. There was still ice on the lakes. The air was fantastically clear. Our guide, who had lived for 3 years in Richmond, Surrey , had the breakfast. Hot coffee with ham and cheese and rolls and biscuits. This is in the Saltar de Atacama the third largest salt lake in the world.
On the the village of Socaire @2700 metres and the only reason this village exists is because it has a river flowing through it. We had to walk for 15 minutes because we were now going up to the altiplano at 4500metres+. On the way up we came across a fox and the little tinkerbell just sat there looking at the minibus and posing for photos (or so it seemed).
Up and up to the volcanic lakes at Miscanti and Miñiques. At this point we were only a few kilometres from the crossing into Argentina at 4600 metres. Although the lakes were blue, blue, blue and the sun was shining it was still quite chilly. Then we saw a herd of Vicuña and they probably liked it there because of the water.
I was quite light headed although the walking was ok and on the way back down there were three trucks headed for Salta. At the unremarkable pueblo of Tocono we were invited into a little old lady´s shop. Native handicrafts etc but at the back she had 2 llamas and two very woolly sheep. We bought a miniature llama for Ianne´s shelf. Warmest day so far.
Got back at 13.00 and I got the written blog up to date. Tomorrow we have to be up at 03.30 for a 04.00 pickup and we have been told to expect temperatures of between -10 and -20. Full load of thermal underwear and complete "North Face" protection required. We both bought woolly hats and woolly gloves. Did not expect this until Patagonia!
Apart from a propensity to turn the electric (and the water to the toilet) off at 21.00 the hostel is very good.
Chilean joke. The guide told me that he and the driver had Argentian blood. He then pointed to his knuckles and the front of the minibus!!!!
Spent 2 hours 15 minutes in the Internet cafe getting the blog up to date.The man said the bill should be CLP2000 but where was mummy from. Denmark. Then the bill would only be CLP1000 because his grandfather was Danish and his name was Petersen. We have had lots of discounts for being old but have never had a Nationality discount before.
Friday 15th October
Up at the unchristly hour of 03.30 ready for the 04.00-04.30 pick up for the El Tatioo Geyser Tour. At 4.35 the minibus arrived much to our relief. Ianne was wearing a swimming costume, knickers, thermal trousers and vest, 3 T shirts, 1 long sleeved T-shirt, cardigan, fleece, ski jacket (with hood up) plus new woolly hat, gloves and scarf (non-itchy)
After a call of nature we went to the geyser fields where, at 10 minutes to sun up, the temperature was -14C and bloody freezing cold. At first sun up people actually shed all of their togs and waded into the thermal pool. There must have been 20 or so people bathing. Dear reader, I will let you decide whether either Jack or Marianne bathed.
Back to the minibus for coffee, cheese sandwiches and biscuits. We were both as cold as frozen turds. We were at 4500 metres altitude so that could explain something. Despite the early start the geysers are pretty amazing and once inside the bus we began to thaw out.
Next stop was a bridge over the river Putana ( yes that is the correct name) which emanates from the volcano of the same name. Lots of nice birds and ice in the river at 4200 metres asl.
Onwards to the village of Machua population 8, where we had fresh cooked empanadas (delicious) , llama kebabs (pinchitos) and a cup of tea with herbs supposed to reduce altitude sickness. I was a little light headed but not really surprising given the heights.
Going back we saw a small herd of llamas feeding in the river, all llamas being domestic animals. Then on the way to cactus valley we saw our first heard of guanacos. Cactus valley is nice with a river running through that eventually irrigates San Pedro. Lots of very large cactii whose name escapes me but all are protected species.
Got back about 12, packed and put the cases into Hostel storage for our departure this evening. Had a light lunch and endeavoured (and succeeded) in bringing this blog up to date. Whew!
Weather here 25-30C Sunny and hot.
Thursday 14 October 2010
Chañaral
Saturday 9th October
On the bus on the Pan Am highway going north. Good views of the Ocean with poor hamlets. Once up in the highlands and away from the coast it is sunny and warm and semi desert. Sparse clumps of vegetation and past Vallenar and we are almost in desert with just the odd scrub. Ianne says we are extremely smelly. Nice shower will take place with ensuite capabilities. Arrived Chañaral an hour late, trip time 9 hours. As per standard got ripped off by the taxi driver with a CLP1500 fare for 800 metres.
Went out for dinner to a little restaurant and the only two occupants were a father and son from Denmark. The owner had been in Norway so spoke some Norwegian and some English. Restaurant bill for two lomos (beef) 2 beers and a tea was expensive at CLP16500.
Sunday 10th October
4 weekends away from Tavizna. Woke up and had a nice shower..no more smelling bad. Went for breakfast but didn´t realise that 1. We had not booked for breakfast and 2. The clocks had gone forward in the night...No problem..bring on the breakfast.
Weather cloudy and a strong breeze. Chilean flags everywhere. I am not sure what it represents..National Pride? Insecurity? Perhaps readers of this blog could provide enlightenment? Took a walk down the sea. Fantastic white beach but heavily polluted. This is our first "mining and desert" town with a huge backdrop of mountains. Also just found out that tomorrow is a National Holiday in Chile. Tele says that miners come up on Wednesday.
Sitting in a cafe we have been found by a "tourist guide" who is going to take us to the Pan de Azucar, 28kms north. Drive up to the path to the mirador, walk up the path 3 kms then fantastic view over sea. Then walk along the cliff top 7 kms to the fishing vllage where we could get a boat to Pan de Azucar Island then get a nice dinner before he picked us up at 19.30.
The walk up was fine and the view very very nice. Met a Parque guide who said it was forbidden to walk along the path top and she knew the "tourist guide" in person and would talk to him. We started to walk back to the village 7kms and got a lift with a young Chilean couple. Got to the village. No boats to the island and all of the restauants were closed. Waited 90 minutes for "tourist guide" who said it was not his fault that there were no boats or that the restaurants were closed. He could not comment about there being no path back to the village. We negotiated a discount for the trip. I plan to report him to CONAF, the Government agency, and the town hall and the taxi association. We have his name and car number. That sort of sh** gives Chile a bad name. He wanted all of his money "up front". We said old, yes, stupid , no..you get your money back at the hostel. That was a smart move.
Apparently the last time it rained in Chañaral (this March) it was the first rain in 4 years. All roads etc washed away and schools closed for 3/4 days. Chañaral could be a beach resort like La Serena if they could clear the sulphate de cobre pollution as the bay is large and the beach wide. As it is, mining and derivatives are the only bread winners.
Next San Pedro de Atacama...
On the bus on the Pan Am highway going north. Good views of the Ocean with poor hamlets. Once up in the highlands and away from the coast it is sunny and warm and semi desert. Sparse clumps of vegetation and past Vallenar and we are almost in desert with just the odd scrub. Ianne says we are extremely smelly. Nice shower will take place with ensuite capabilities. Arrived Chañaral an hour late, trip time 9 hours. As per standard got ripped off by the taxi driver with a CLP1500 fare for 800 metres.
Went out for dinner to a little restaurant and the only two occupants were a father and son from Denmark. The owner had been in Norway so spoke some Norwegian and some English. Restaurant bill for two lomos (beef) 2 beers and a tea was expensive at CLP16500.
Sunday 10th October
4 weekends away from Tavizna. Woke up and had a nice shower..no more smelling bad. Went for breakfast but didn´t realise that 1. We had not booked for breakfast and 2. The clocks had gone forward in the night...No problem..bring on the breakfast.
Weather cloudy and a strong breeze. Chilean flags everywhere. I am not sure what it represents..National Pride? Insecurity? Perhaps readers of this blog could provide enlightenment? Took a walk down the sea. Fantastic white beach but heavily polluted. This is our first "mining and desert" town with a huge backdrop of mountains. Also just found out that tomorrow is a National Holiday in Chile. Tele says that miners come up on Wednesday.
Sitting in a cafe we have been found by a "tourist guide" who is going to take us to the Pan de Azucar, 28kms north. Drive up to the path to the mirador, walk up the path 3 kms then fantastic view over sea. Then walk along the cliff top 7 kms to the fishing vllage where we could get a boat to Pan de Azucar Island then get a nice dinner before he picked us up at 19.30.
The walk up was fine and the view very very nice. Met a Parque guide who said it was forbidden to walk along the path top and she knew the "tourist guide" in person and would talk to him. We started to walk back to the village 7kms and got a lift with a young Chilean couple. Got to the village. No boats to the island and all of the restauants were closed. Waited 90 minutes for "tourist guide" who said it was not his fault that there were no boats or that the restaurants were closed. He could not comment about there being no path back to the village. We negotiated a discount for the trip. I plan to report him to CONAF, the Government agency, and the town hall and the taxi association. We have his name and car number. That sort of sh** gives Chile a bad name. He wanted all of his money "up front". We said old, yes, stupid , no..you get your money back at the hostel. That was a smart move.
Apparently the last time it rained in Chañaral (this March) it was the first rain in 4 years. All roads etc washed away and schools closed for 3/4 days. Chañaral could be a beach resort like La Serena if they could clear the sulphate de cobre pollution as the bay is large and the beach wide. As it is, mining and derivatives are the only bread winners.
Next San Pedro de Atacama...
La Serena
Tuesday 5th October
No food on the bus. The landscape got drier and drier as we went north on route 5, Pan American Highway. On the way up we saw a beer lorry overturned with cans of Cristal lager all over the road. Despite the best endeavours of all the passengers the bus refused to stop! We arrived at 20.00 at La Serena , a trip of some 7 hours.
Aji Verde (Green chilli) was our first hostel and let me reassure you that it IS NOT upmarket. The bunk beds were not expected and sharing bathrooms was a very new experience. Still this is a budget trip so needs must as the devil drives. Loads of Brazilians staying here. The hostel is part of the YHA Network so we got a 15% discount. Just heard from Hanne. She got home safely but a word of warning. Do not use El Rapido buses and I quote " a horrible bus smelling of pi**".
Wednesday 6th October
We are now seasoned travellers and hostellers and talked to everybody at breakfast. We have booked the Elqui Valley and Observatory tour for tomorrow. Wandered around La Serena and down to the lighthouse and along the front. Lots of new hotels going up. I cooked dinner, chili con carne with rice. The other hostellers thought it was good too as there was far too much cooked. Being naturally modest I told them that my lasagne was even better! Blue skies and sun 19/20 C
Thursday 7th October
For whatever reason we were not booked on the tour to the Elqui Valley (cock up on the hostel front!) but we managed to get on another tour and will try to meet up with the original tour for the observatory later. On the way had Chilean papaya which bears no resemblance to a Malaysian papaya. It is like a small green lemon and tastes as bad! We found out afterwards that we should have boiled it first! It seems we are going to a Pisco distillery and will get some freebie Mango Sour. Having phoned the Hostel (who were phoning the travel agent) it seems we are now to meet with the Nomadic Tour but will have to wait for the where and when, which turned out to be the Plaza de Armas in Vicuña ( a one horse pueblo where the horse left years ago).
We went into the Elqui Valley (green, green, green) and to a pisco distillery near Mannallucco, site of the observatory. Results of the tasting afterwards. Normal Pisco, totally disgusting and worse than sleepinaditch (slivovica) but just better than 8 year old unrinsed sock washing water. The 3 year old was a little smoother but nobody in their right mind would go beyond the foot of their stairs for it! In the shop we were served a mango sour. Now we are talking "hit me with loads of it". Seems that you have to put lemon, mango or even banana in with the Piso to get an acceptable drink..
We went further into the Elqui Valley for lunch. Every square inch is cultivated. Because of the dam they now get very strong winds so there is masses of protective sheeting everywhere to protect the crops. Not a nice sight.
Having been to the town of Nobel Winner Gabriella Mistral (the name of the town escapes me) we headed back to Vicuña. The will to live having been lost with the conversations with the hostel reference observatory, it transpired that if we cared to wait in Vicuña for 5 hours we could go on the tour. We declined with what I thought was remarkable restraint. However the hostel could confirm (after two phone calls from our guide) that we were booked on the tour to Parque Nacional Fray Jorge the next day!
Weather hot in Elqui 27/28C. Camera stopped working!
Friday 8th October
We were picked up at 08.30 and after 90 minutes south in a 7/8 seater Honda touring car, featuring automatic and cruise control. From the highway it is 23km on a dirt road to the Parque Nacional. We walked 4 km uphill and into the wind and it took 1 hour. Then 3 kms round the top and 4 km down again. Heroes medals were sought and awarded. The Parque is amazing. The wind rises off the sea and hits a 500 metre ridge where mist forms for 220 days in the year. As a result you have a forest in the desert. One of the party, a Chilean, had spent 9 years in Sweden so we talked to him in Danish.
Next to the Valle del Encanto a prehstoric site with loads of Petroglifs . Back to La Serena and treated ourselves to an Italian Dinner ( in recognition of the sterling work done earlier).
We and the hostel tried to book a hostel in Copiapo but to no avail. This is a big place but even HostelWorld could not offer anything, so we decided to go to Chañaral instead.
No food on the bus. The landscape got drier and drier as we went north on route 5, Pan American Highway. On the way up we saw a beer lorry overturned with cans of Cristal lager all over the road. Despite the best endeavours of all the passengers the bus refused to stop! We arrived at 20.00 at La Serena , a trip of some 7 hours.
Aji Verde (Green chilli) was our first hostel and let me reassure you that it IS NOT upmarket. The bunk beds were not expected and sharing bathrooms was a very new experience. Still this is a budget trip so needs must as the devil drives. Loads of Brazilians staying here. The hostel is part of the YHA Network so we got a 15% discount. Just heard from Hanne. She got home safely but a word of warning. Do not use El Rapido buses and I quote " a horrible bus smelling of pi**".
Wednesday 6th October
We are now seasoned travellers and hostellers and talked to everybody at breakfast. We have booked the Elqui Valley and Observatory tour for tomorrow. Wandered around La Serena and down to the lighthouse and along the front. Lots of new hotels going up. I cooked dinner, chili con carne with rice. The other hostellers thought it was good too as there was far too much cooked. Being naturally modest I told them that my lasagne was even better! Blue skies and sun 19/20 C
Thursday 7th October
For whatever reason we were not booked on the tour to the Elqui Valley (cock up on the hostel front!) but we managed to get on another tour and will try to meet up with the original tour for the observatory later. On the way had Chilean papaya which bears no resemblance to a Malaysian papaya. It is like a small green lemon and tastes as bad! We found out afterwards that we should have boiled it first! It seems we are going to a Pisco distillery and will get some freebie Mango Sour. Having phoned the Hostel (who were phoning the travel agent) it seems we are now to meet with the Nomadic Tour but will have to wait for the where and when, which turned out to be the Plaza de Armas in Vicuña ( a one horse pueblo where the horse left years ago).
We went into the Elqui Valley (green, green, green) and to a pisco distillery near Mannallucco, site of the observatory. Results of the tasting afterwards. Normal Pisco, totally disgusting and worse than sleepinaditch (slivovica) but just better than 8 year old unrinsed sock washing water. The 3 year old was a little smoother but nobody in their right mind would go beyond the foot of their stairs for it! In the shop we were served a mango sour. Now we are talking "hit me with loads of it". Seems that you have to put lemon, mango or even banana in with the Piso to get an acceptable drink..
We went further into the Elqui Valley for lunch. Every square inch is cultivated. Because of the dam they now get very strong winds so there is masses of protective sheeting everywhere to protect the crops. Not a nice sight.
Having been to the town of Nobel Winner Gabriella Mistral (the name of the town escapes me) we headed back to Vicuña. The will to live having been lost with the conversations with the hostel reference observatory, it transpired that if we cared to wait in Vicuña for 5 hours we could go on the tour. We declined with what I thought was remarkable restraint. However the hostel could confirm (after two phone calls from our guide) that we were booked on the tour to Parque Nacional Fray Jorge the next day!
Weather hot in Elqui 27/28C. Camera stopped working!
Friday 8th October
We were picked up at 08.30 and after 90 minutes south in a 7/8 seater Honda touring car, featuring automatic and cruise control. From the highway it is 23km on a dirt road to the Parque Nacional. We walked 4 km uphill and into the wind and it took 1 hour. Then 3 kms round the top and 4 km down again. Heroes medals were sought and awarded. The Parque is amazing. The wind rises off the sea and hits a 500 metre ridge where mist forms for 220 days in the year. As a result you have a forest in the desert. One of the party, a Chilean, had spent 9 years in Sweden so we talked to him in Danish.
Next to the Valle del Encanto a prehstoric site with loads of Petroglifs . Back to La Serena and treated ourselves to an Italian Dinner ( in recognition of the sterling work done earlier).
We and the hostel tried to book a hostel in Copiapo but to no avail. This is a big place but even HostelWorld could not offer anything, so we decided to go to Chañaral instead.
Tuesday 12 October 2010
Santiago de Chile y Valparaiso
Thursday 30th and Friday 1st October. (Travellers JC, MC and HC)
The bus was due to leave Cordoba at 22.00. We were told to come back at 02.00 so went for a nice dinner. Back to bus station and bus left eventually at 03.30. For the mathematician this represents a delay of 5 1/2 hours. The scheduled time of arrival at Santiago de Chile was 13.45 on Friday 1st October. Actually arrived at 21.00. I will let the clever readers work out how late this is! It took 3 hours of nothing happening to cross into Chile at the Paseo del Libertadores (altitude 3150 metres with snow on ground and brass monkeys present). It transpires that this bus starts at Rio de Janeiro in Brazil and is the only one to go directly to Santiago, all others start at Mendoza. It is probably the one that Lise and Chad took (also delayed by 8 hours) so perhaps we should have known better. We had a quick hamburger at a semi-greasy spoon in Santiago and slept very well.
Saturday 2nd October
Hotel Paris was the recommendation of Steffen and it is in a good location. There was some reference to the lady owner offering rooms "by the hour" but we could not find evidence of this. Took breakfast at 09.55, latest 10.00 and got tutted at by the maid! Walked down to Plaza de las Armas, very nice and went into the Cathedral (vast). MC and HC went into the Chile before Columbus museum and apparently it was excellent. I people watched in the square. We purchased two mobile phones (1 each for MC and HC) but could not get them to work.
Had lunch at the Central Market again at the recommendation of SJC. Marvellous. I had lenguado (so no surprise there) and Marianne had marisco soup (see HC´s pictures) and, just for a change, HC had an enormous salmon. The aji pebre freebie was delicious. We ate it all so they gave us more. Had cerveza de Patagonia. To say it was average would be kind. Strong recommendation for anyone to visit this place.
Went to Santa Lucia hill with views of the mountains with snow on. Weather sunny 22/23.
Sunday 3rd October
Took the Pullman bus to Valparaiso 1 hour 20 minutes. Sunny leaving Santiago then went through a long tunnel and came out in murk with a temperature drop of 8C. The area around bus station of Valparaiso is double dodgy and on the other side of the bay to the harbour and "attractive views".
Walked around the bay to the port which was offering tours for either CLP15000 on your own boat or CLP1500 on a "collectivo". We took the "collectivo". Excellent tour around the port with large container ships and lots of Chile Navy warships. Strongly recommend the tour. Then took the Concepcion funicular up and took lunch, coffee and sandwiches at a museum dedicated to a famous Chilean caricaturist, the name of whom escapes me.
Food is much more expensive than in Argentina and trying to find a proper coffee, not Nestcafe, is almost impossible. Wandered around for a bit but Valparaiso could not be seen at its best (if it has one) due to cloud and general darkness. Lots of poverty, homelessness and stray dogs. Took afternoon tea at a nice coffee shop and I had my first Pisco Sour. Absolutely delicious but I would not have a second one for fear of leglessness.
We took the "Metro" 6 stops along the bay back to the bus terminus. We had return tickets and tried to board a bus only to be told to go to the Pullman office and get a bus number and time. To say that the crowd at the Pullman counter represented a rugby scrum would be a misrepresentation of the smelly, heaving mob. Push, shove, try not to get mugged etc. Not nice! After what seemed an eternity but was probably only 30 minutes in the line we got a bus time of 22.30. The time at that point was 19.30. Three hours to kill.
Dinner was required but as previously mentioned the area around the bus station is double dodgy, especially in the dark, so we went round the corner and found somewhere a little better. After chicken and chips and some beers lasting 2 1/2 hours we went back to the bus station. On the way a local ne´erdowell tried to get into my rucksack from behind but after a very loud "Oiiiiiiiiii" from Hanne he went on his way. We arrived back at the station and after half an hour (see blog photo of layabouts sitting on steps) there was the bus.
Incredibly Pullman Bus alone had a bus leaving Valparaiso for Santiago every 2/3 minutes. Got back at midnight and had to take a taxi because the Metro stops at 22.30.
Marianne says Valparaiso totally came up to her expectations and she is very happy having been there now!
Monday 4th October 16C
Went to Claro Help Shop (Phone Network Provider) and after standing in line for 1 hour was told that all that was required was unblocking. Went to Plaza de Armas to the unblocking shop and half an hour later two phones were unblocked at a cost of under GBP 5. We needed to purchase various cables and plugs for the recharging equipment because plugs are different in Argentina and Chile. Universal Latin America plugs? You are having a giraffe my friend. Lunch time found us at Agustins Restaurant, a help yourself place. Excellent choice and value e.g. huge salad, lomo (beef) and chips, glass of tinto and a coffee with a chupito of Brandy under GBP 5. The prices in this blog are provided for comparison purposes only the rates at the time of writing GBP=CLP716. GBP=1.15EUR ( for "Foreign" readers)
HC needed a sleep so the padres went to Parque Metropolitano where a huge statue of the Virgin Mary is and went up by funicular. Views should have been good but it was very misty. Took the Metro back in the rush hour. BIG MISTAKE! Bloody sardines have masses of room compared to us and we got back to find HC still asleep.
Last night for HC so we went to Italian on the main drag. The main drag is Avenida Liberator Bernado O´ Higgins, which is far too much of a mouthful for the locals who call it Almeda. Two courses, bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, puddings and a coffee for GBP10 per person. Interesting that only a signature was required with a chip and pin credit card.
Tuesday 5th October.
Checked out of hotel Paris. Hanne is taking the bus at 13.00 to Mendoza and then back to Santiago and we are taking the 13.30 to La Serena. We went to Constitucion Square then took the Metro to Central Station. Again packed like sardines.
Saw HC off then walked back to our terminal (1 Metro Station back).
No food on the bus, 8 hours to La Serena
The bus was due to leave Cordoba at 22.00. We were told to come back at 02.00 so went for a nice dinner. Back to bus station and bus left eventually at 03.30. For the mathematician this represents a delay of 5 1/2 hours. The scheduled time of arrival at Santiago de Chile was 13.45 on Friday 1st October. Actually arrived at 21.00. I will let the clever readers work out how late this is! It took 3 hours of nothing happening to cross into Chile at the Paseo del Libertadores (altitude 3150 metres with snow on ground and brass monkeys present). It transpires that this bus starts at Rio de Janeiro in Brazil and is the only one to go directly to Santiago, all others start at Mendoza. It is probably the one that Lise and Chad took (also delayed by 8 hours) so perhaps we should have known better. We had a quick hamburger at a semi-greasy spoon in Santiago and slept very well.
Saturday 2nd October
Hotel Paris was the recommendation of Steffen and it is in a good location. There was some reference to the lady owner offering rooms "by the hour" but we could not find evidence of this. Took breakfast at 09.55, latest 10.00 and got tutted at by the maid! Walked down to Plaza de las Armas, very nice and went into the Cathedral (vast). MC and HC went into the Chile before Columbus museum and apparently it was excellent. I people watched in the square. We purchased two mobile phones (1 each for MC and HC) but could not get them to work.
Had lunch at the Central Market again at the recommendation of SJC. Marvellous. I had lenguado (so no surprise there) and Marianne had marisco soup (see HC´s pictures) and, just for a change, HC had an enormous salmon. The aji pebre freebie was delicious. We ate it all so they gave us more. Had cerveza de Patagonia. To say it was average would be kind. Strong recommendation for anyone to visit this place.
Went to Santa Lucia hill with views of the mountains with snow on. Weather sunny 22/23.
Sunday 3rd October
Took the Pullman bus to Valparaiso 1 hour 20 minutes. Sunny leaving Santiago then went through a long tunnel and came out in murk with a temperature drop of 8C. The area around bus station of Valparaiso is double dodgy and on the other side of the bay to the harbour and "attractive views".
Walked around the bay to the port which was offering tours for either CLP15000 on your own boat or CLP1500 on a "collectivo". We took the "collectivo". Excellent tour around the port with large container ships and lots of Chile Navy warships. Strongly recommend the tour. Then took the Concepcion funicular up and took lunch, coffee and sandwiches at a museum dedicated to a famous Chilean caricaturist, the name of whom escapes me.
Food is much more expensive than in Argentina and trying to find a proper coffee, not Nestcafe, is almost impossible. Wandered around for a bit but Valparaiso could not be seen at its best (if it has one) due to cloud and general darkness. Lots of poverty, homelessness and stray dogs. Took afternoon tea at a nice coffee shop and I had my first Pisco Sour. Absolutely delicious but I would not have a second one for fear of leglessness.
We took the "Metro" 6 stops along the bay back to the bus terminus. We had return tickets and tried to board a bus only to be told to go to the Pullman office and get a bus number and time. To say that the crowd at the Pullman counter represented a rugby scrum would be a misrepresentation of the smelly, heaving mob. Push, shove, try not to get mugged etc. Not nice! After what seemed an eternity but was probably only 30 minutes in the line we got a bus time of 22.30. The time at that point was 19.30. Three hours to kill.
Dinner was required but as previously mentioned the area around the bus station is double dodgy, especially in the dark, so we went round the corner and found somewhere a little better. After chicken and chips and some beers lasting 2 1/2 hours we went back to the bus station. On the way a local ne´erdowell tried to get into my rucksack from behind but after a very loud "Oiiiiiiiiii" from Hanne he went on his way. We arrived back at the station and after half an hour (see blog photo of layabouts sitting on steps) there was the bus.
Incredibly Pullman Bus alone had a bus leaving Valparaiso for Santiago every 2/3 minutes. Got back at midnight and had to take a taxi because the Metro stops at 22.30.
Marianne says Valparaiso totally came up to her expectations and she is very happy having been there now!
Monday 4th October 16C
Went to Claro Help Shop (Phone Network Provider) and after standing in line for 1 hour was told that all that was required was unblocking. Went to Plaza de Armas to the unblocking shop and half an hour later two phones were unblocked at a cost of under GBP 5. We needed to purchase various cables and plugs for the recharging equipment because plugs are different in Argentina and Chile. Universal Latin America plugs? You are having a giraffe my friend. Lunch time found us at Agustins Restaurant, a help yourself place. Excellent choice and value e.g. huge salad, lomo (beef) and chips, glass of tinto and a coffee with a chupito of Brandy under GBP 5. The prices in this blog are provided for comparison purposes only the rates at the time of writing GBP=CLP716. GBP=1.15EUR ( for "Foreign" readers)
HC needed a sleep so the padres went to Parque Metropolitano where a huge statue of the Virgin Mary is and went up by funicular. Views should have been good but it was very misty. Took the Metro back in the rush hour. BIG MISTAKE! Bloody sardines have masses of room compared to us and we got back to find HC still asleep.
Last night for HC so we went to Italian on the main drag. The main drag is Avenida Liberator Bernado O´ Higgins, which is far too much of a mouthful for the locals who call it Almeda. Two courses, bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, puddings and a coffee for GBP10 per person. Interesting that only a signature was required with a chip and pin credit card.
Tuesday 5th October.
Checked out of hotel Paris. Hanne is taking the bus at 13.00 to Mendoza and then back to Santiago and we are taking the 13.30 to La Serena. We went to Constitucion Square then took the Metro to Central Station. Again packed like sardines.
Saw HC off then walked back to our terminal (1 Metro Station back).
No food on the bus, 8 hours to La Serena
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