Got up at 06.30 for the bus to San Pedro de Atacama @ 08.00 for a 10 hour journey. North of Chañaral desert, desert, desert. This time we took Turbus and it was the first time that our headphones for the videos worked. Will not travel with Elquibus again. The film was with Bruce Lee and Jet Li. Normal Kung Fuey but at least we could hear the words although Marianne soon lost interest. On Pan Am going north to Arica 1000km. Desert, desert etc and got to Antofogasta in 5 hours, half way. We managed to sit in the front of the bus bewtween Calama and San Pedsro, about 90 minutes. Arrived SP in 10 hours 30 minutes.
San Pedro is a desert tourist village with hostels, hotels, tour operators, restaurants, internet cafes, dirt roads and millions of tourists. I had a monster head ache which could be the change in altitude and we both had motion sickness. San Pedro is 2300 metres above sea level. We booked into a Residential which we had recommended to us by a traveller we had spoken with in La Serena. We had a three bed room for the price of two. Can´t be bad. Only milk to be found, full cream. Only bread to be found, white.
Tuesday 12 October
Not planning to do a lot today and will try to get acclimatised before we take trips up to the altiplano at up to 4500 metres. Not cold overnight and we wandered round trying to find our feet (they were attached to our legs of course, don´t laugh , it will only encourage him) . Visited the church (notable for the use of cactus wood throughout) and the history of Atacama museum. This was excellent. Found a decent Internet cafe and tried to hook the camera up so that we could put pictures on the blog. Not a prayer. Photos will have to wait until we get to back to Cordoba, November 19th ish. Also we think this camera is crap so we will buy another one when we next get to a town of any size. Not many Brazilians here but loads of French, German, Dutch tourists.
We have to be careful in the restaurants as the bill can get quite large, quite quickly especially with a glass of average "tinto" @ GBP3. Beautiful sunset. Booked for Valle de la Luna tomorrow and Flamingoes and Lakes and Altiplano on Thursday and Geysers on Friday.
Wednesday 13th October
Decided to go directly to Arica on the overnight bus on Friday night and booked a hostel. Bus arrives 05.30 Saturday. We said we would be arriving at hostel 06.00. Only time will tell what will happen when we arrive. Bought some steak, tomatoes and onions for dinner to be washed down with some Errazuriz Cab Sauv 2009 at about GBP3.
Went on the Valley of the Moon trip at 16.00 and first went to Death Valley where lots of people were sandboarding. Cedd has done this he says! Next a cave system which involved crawling on all 4´s and finally a nice uphill walk on heavy sand for 20 minutes to get to the top of the ridge to see the sunset. Lots of people. There was a spectacular sunset when the mountains and volcanoes looking to the west turned red.
We got back at 20.30 for dinner and at 22.00 the church bells rang out and this coincided with an air raid siren ( we found out later it was the fire department) both making a fearful racket. It transpired that the last miner had been rescued and this was the cue for the noise.
Thursday 14th October
Up at 06.00 for the trip and it was bloody cold. The minibus went directly to Laguna Chaxa where we saw the sun rise over the salt lakes and lots of flamingoes. A super spectacle but freezing cold. There was still ice on the lakes. The air was fantastically clear. Our guide, who had lived for 3 years in Richmond, Surrey , had the breakfast. Hot coffee with ham and cheese and rolls and biscuits. This is in the Saltar de Atacama the third largest salt lake in the world.
On the the village of Socaire @2700 metres and the only reason this village exists is because it has a river flowing through it. We had to walk for 15 minutes because we were now going up to the altiplano at 4500metres+. On the way up we came across a fox and the little tinkerbell just sat there looking at the minibus and posing for photos (or so it seemed).
Up and up to the volcanic lakes at Miscanti and Miñiques. At this point we were only a few kilometres from the crossing into Argentina at 4600 metres. Although the lakes were blue, blue, blue and the sun was shining it was still quite chilly. Then we saw a herd of Vicuña and they probably liked it there because of the water.
I was quite light headed although the walking was ok and on the way back down there were three trucks headed for Salta. At the unremarkable pueblo of Tocono we were invited into a little old lady´s shop. Native handicrafts etc but at the back she had 2 llamas and two very woolly sheep. We bought a miniature llama for Ianne´s shelf. Warmest day so far.
Got back at 13.00 and I got the written blog up to date. Tomorrow we have to be up at 03.30 for a 04.00 pickup and we have been told to expect temperatures of between -10 and -20. Full load of thermal underwear and complete "North Face" protection required. We both bought woolly hats and woolly gloves. Did not expect this until Patagonia!
Apart from a propensity to turn the electric (and the water to the toilet) off at 21.00 the hostel is very good.
Chilean joke. The guide told me that he and the driver had Argentian blood. He then pointed to his knuckles and the front of the minibus!!!!
Spent 2 hours 15 minutes in the Internet cafe getting the blog up to date.The man said the bill should be CLP2000 but where was mummy from. Denmark. Then the bill would only be CLP1000 because his grandfather was Danish and his name was Petersen. We have had lots of discounts for being old but have never had a Nationality discount before.
Friday 15th October
Up at the unchristly hour of 03.30 ready for the 04.00-04.30 pick up for the El Tatioo Geyser Tour. At 4.35 the minibus arrived much to our relief. Ianne was wearing a swimming costume, knickers, thermal trousers and vest, 3 T shirts, 1 long sleeved T-shirt, cardigan, fleece, ski jacket (with hood up) plus new woolly hat, gloves and scarf (non-itchy)
After a call of nature we went to the geyser fields where, at 10 minutes to sun up, the temperature was -14C and bloody freezing cold. At first sun up people actually shed all of their togs and waded into the thermal pool. There must have been 20 or so people bathing. Dear reader, I will let you decide whether either Jack or Marianne bathed.
Back to the minibus for coffee, cheese sandwiches and biscuits. We were both as cold as frozen turds. We were at 4500 metres altitude so that could explain something. Despite the early start the geysers are pretty amazing and once inside the bus we began to thaw out.
Next stop was a bridge over the river Putana ( yes that is the correct name) which emanates from the volcano of the same name. Lots of nice birds and ice in the river at 4200 metres asl.
Onwards to the village of Machua population 8, where we had fresh cooked empanadas (delicious) , llama kebabs (pinchitos) and a cup of tea with herbs supposed to reduce altitude sickness. I was a little light headed but not really surprising given the heights.
Going back we saw a small herd of llamas feeding in the river, all llamas being domestic animals. Then on the way to cactus valley we saw our first heard of guanacos. Cactus valley is nice with a river running through that eventually irrigates San Pedro. Lots of very large cactii whose name escapes me but all are protected species.
Got back about 12, packed and put the cases into Hostel storage for our departure this evening. Had a light lunch and endeavoured (and succeeded) in bringing this blog up to date. Whew!
Weather here 25-30C Sunny and hot.
Went to a church notable for use of cactus wood, "it was excellent"...?
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