6th December 2010
We left fairly promptly at 09.00 and headed south. Same estepa, same wind. Waited at Argentine border for 2 hours, all baggage and hand baggage had to go through the machine.We had no idea why because we were leaving Argentina. The machine was manned by the pre menstrual bitch from hell who delighted in shouting at all of the travellers for putting their luggage on the conveyor belt before she had told them they could. Then in only half an hour we were into Chile where Ianne had to do her immigration form again because she had ticked yes and no to ..do you have any fruit..and she had written pasas and marmelade . The immigration lady was not interested in the fruit , only the form. I politely told her that I was pleased that Bureaucracy was alive and well and living at the Argentine.Chile border in Patagonia. She smiled. It must have been the wind..
For the ferry crossing across the Magellan Straits, the ferry backed up on to the beach with its ramp down and the coach went down the concrete ramp and up the metal ramp on to the boat. God alone knows what Health and Safety would have made of this in the UK. It was windy with plenty of white tops. People were taking the air forward when the Captain turned the boat into the waves. 45 very wet people rushed back inside. It was very funny. After the 30 minute crossing we had hours of dirt road to the Chile. Argentine border. Very quick immigration with only passports stamped and no baggage checks. We went via Rio Grande which was big and ugly and probably as much fun as Rio Gallegos and got to Toluin in 2 and a half hours. This is a new town, right on a beautiful lake, with government grants for everything and no tax. No doubt in a few years the pristine forests and lakes will be shot to bits with pollution. Then up into the mountains, black and with snow. We arrived at Ushuaia 21.15 only 15 minutes late. Still light, 7C and no wind...Bought a pizza and ate back at the hostel..Early to bed. 12 hour bus journeys make you tired.
7th December 2010
There is no boat service to Punta Arenas and no flight either. The only option is back on the bus for 12 hours or go to Puerto Williams, down the Beagle Channel and in Chile and take the boat to PA..36 hours..We wndered around town after a full briefing from our hostess. Things are expensive here. Arg 14 pesos for a coffee GBP2.50 . We took lunch at the Irish Pub ..they are everywhere..and then went on the bus tour. The bus was incredibly old and I told the Clippy ..who had a proper ticket machine..that Uncle Michael probably helped to build the bus. It was from 1928 I think. We had to have an invisible passenger with us because the bus could only go with 4 passengers and we were only 3. The tourist information on San Martin was very helpful. We had our first sign of the Argentine Navy, 5 small gey and black ships. Antarctic cruise ships and Maersk container ships dominate the port. The sun is shining and it is high summer at 12C.We booked to go on the bus to Punta Arenas on Sunday for ARS250, that is enough money. We had a chicken dinner at a reasonable restaurant with a Tango Show upstairs. Still light at 22.45. Ushuaia is good for tourists especially those who have come down the boring east coast of Argentina. It is a proper city with restaurantes and tourist attractions..The shops are very Christmassy and it seems appropriate for it to be Christmas time because it is cold.
8th December 2010
I went to the internet shop in town. Stupid because there was a facilty at the hostal.We went on the cruise on the Beagle Channel on the Rumbo Sur boat, a catamaran with leather seats and a cafeteria on board. A touch of luxury for 6 hours with lots of ships, a plane , sea lions, penguins, sea birds etc. We saw Puerto Williams, Chile from the boat. Things must be expensive there because they get their provisions from Punta Arenas, some 36 hours away on the boat. Population 2000. This is the world's most southerly town, Ushuaia claiming the title for cities. fin del mundo,end of the world everywhere. The suset was spectacular with pinks and reds and greys. A brief shower on the boat, no real wind and temperatures of 8 degrees. Definitely take the Rumbo Sur tour in Ushuaia.
9th December 2010
Spent the morning at the hostal catching up on things. Then museum in the afternoon with pouring rain. The Fin Del Mundo Museum . pay. is very good showing the history of Ushuaia. The place only grew when they introduced tax free status for companies and now they have 80000 people and the growth is totally out of control with 9 yards of illegal housing and lack of social services. Argentina is still very prickly about its borders and the Chileans and Argies look at each other quite sternly in this part of the world where, if you break wind while sailing, you change country.
10th December 2010
We transferred hostal because Hostelworld said our first hostel was full when in fact it was empty. Cleverer people than me can tell me why this should be. Not too far away but expensive ars240 with shared bathroom.GBP40 per night. We walked up to the glacier. Probably 11 km each way but a lovely walk encompassing sleet and snow showers and wind. We were a little tired but managed it ok. We went into the cafe at the entrance to the park and I had chicken stew .casera. and Ianne had pumpkin.calabasa. soup. Both wre delicious.
Ianne then had a go at Canopy or zip wire. She enjoyed it so much that she wants to have another go the next time we come across it. On the way back we too a path to shorten the journey down the mountain and soon found ourselves in prime forest and bogs with no path. We were the first people there I am sure. We knew that the forest backed up to the mountains for probably 3 kms and that we had to go down. We had to cross mountain streams and managed without wet feet. After an hour we saw a house and clambered down a very steep slope , lost sight of the house, but saw a derelict restaurant which we had noticed on the way up. To get there we had to cross the mountain torrent via a tree which had fallen across. With the aid of a balancing stick we managed to get across to civilisation. We joined the road down some 200 metres below where we had taken the short cut. Back at the hostel Syvia, the owner, allowed me to cook as a special treat. She doesn't like the smell of cooking in her hostel. Spag Bog and half a bottle of Cab Sauv and we retired to bed knackered but happy.
We came across yellow growths on trees known as Pan del Indio. Apparently you can boil them and eat them but we tried them raw and they had no taste. It seems that the rain and snow in Ushuaia comes in the afternoons. Nobody bothers with a weather forecast because it is never correct.
11th December 2010
The legs ache a bit after yesterday's exertions but generally we are fine. If the weather holds up we will go to the National Park some 15km west and right on the Chile border. We took the minibus to the Parque Nacional de Tierrra Fuego. We got dropped off and walked maybe 7/10 km with nice woods, geese, bays etc. No sun but no rain and wind not so bad. We took the thermos with coffee and had a little snack on a few occasions. Education section. Previously when things took a bit of time you could say it was like watching paint dry or grass grow. I can add to this in a mega way. Now you can say it was like a peat bog being fully formed. This takes 14000 years. You can see one in its early stages on this trip.
It turned a bit chilly so we caught the bus back at 17.00 having previously enjoyed a coffee and a hot chocolate for ars 28 or GBP 4.50 . Ouch.
Summary of Ushuaia. We loved it despite the expense. GBP40 per night not ensuite is too much. Restaurants too are expensive by Argentinian standards but the setting surrounded by black mountains with snow and the Beagle Channel make it almost surreal. You certainly need 5 nights to make the trip worthwhile.
http://www.google.cl/images?hl=es&q=ushuaia&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=YX8LTcmYAoP98AaY_fnKDQ&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=3&ved=0CDsQsAQwAg
http://www.google.cl/images?um=1&hl=es&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=beagle+channel&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=
We will update the blog with our own photos when we get back to Cordoba probably in January 2011
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