Saturday 25th December - Tuesday 28th December 2010
I went out early to get money. Only 1 ATM working, no change there! We had a late breakfast at the hostel and caught the bus at 13.00. The trip took exactly 3 1/4 hours including a 15 minute stop half way for relief and coffee. Near El Chalten ( only 25 years old) the bus stopped for us to take pictures of the mountains behind El Chalten and a long distance view of the Viedma Glacier and Lake, with blue icebergs.
At El Chalten we were welcomed into the office of the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, given a map of the trekking capabilities and a 15 minute talk on the dos and don´ts within the Parque. We found our hostel (most expensive so far on our while trip) 5 blocks up and 2 across from the bus station. The ATM is directly across the road from the bus station and had no money. There is no bank.
We took an evening stroll to the waterfall, 8 km round trip,very nice and had a super pizza for dinner on the way home. Went to bed at 23.00 tired and happy. Weather very blustery!
El Chalten only exists to cater for the needs of the trekkers in the Nacional Parque. If you don´t trek, want to ride a hire bike or ride on a horse, then do not come here. The location is sensational and it is the trekking capital of Argentina. It has lots of wooden houses, little shops, hostels and restaurants and is very small compared to El Calafate.
The next day found us walking to the mirador del Torre. A glacial valley with mountains and a glacier at the end and in the distance. We saw 2 condors briefly and it was blustery but quite warm. Although there were many walkers the trails was not crowded and we filled our water bottle from the stream. We estimate a total distance covered of 10-11km and we walked the northerly route back into town . Very steep descent and would have been very difficult to climb up and out of town. It started raining and HC went into an Internet cafe to get a message to Dave that she is OK. No mobile coverage here. Due to our exertions we had a roll for lunch and a 3 hour siesta. Excellent! We had a couple of beers and a game of cards on the hostel before dinner. The bastards in the restaurant tried to overcharge us by 20 pesos. Why do they do this! HC was left to point it out nicely. I am afraid that my method would not have been so diplomatic. Absolutely peeing down and cold on the walk back to the hostel.
Next day calm and sunny and we walked up to the Condor and Aguilar miradors. I walked to the Aguilar on my own because the walk up was steep and MC and HC needed a little rest. The viewpoint from Aguilar is over the plain to Lago Viedma ( blue icebergs) and very nice. We had lunch out for a change and my pumpkin soup was excellent. Ianne and I walked up to book horse riding for the next day and HC had an extended nap. Internet here costs GBP2 or EUR2.35 for an hour. Very expensive.
On 28th we had an early breakfast and we all walked up to where HC and MC were to start their horse ride. I hit my trail at 09.30 and went up, up, up for 7 kms with wind against. Even for an experienced trekker like me(!) it was tough. The funny thing is that other walkers didn´t find it so tough! Any road up I was rewarded with a fantastic view of Mount Fitz Roy from the mirador and then on to turquoise blue Laguna Capri and camping without facilities. Pausing briefly to take a little coffee from my flask and do what bears do in the woods, I took some pictures of the fungus that affects all of the trees in Patagonia and destroys the leaves. I left the viewpoint at 12.00 and had arranged to meet the girls at 13.00 at the end of their ride. I arrived at 13.00 they were half an hour late.
On the way down I heard a toc, toc, toc and there he was the carpintero ( wood pecker) busy at his task about 8 metres off the trail. Photos were taken. Then, bugger me, a man was leading two fully laden llamas up the trail. Where they were going and why is a mystery but again photos were taken. The reference to Israel is that El Chalten is full of Israelis and there were maybe 300 on the trail going up as I was coming down and I am surrounded by Hebrew ( a nasty language on the ear) in the Internet Cafe. Why they are all here I have no idea.
When the girls came back they could barely walk. A coffee was taken and a well earned siesta , 2 hours was enjoyed. Tonight is our last night in El Chalten and tomorrow we are back to El Calafate where HC starts her plane journeys back to Buenos Aires and Cordoba, Aerolineas Argentinas willing!
Summary of El Chalten; Stunning location and facilities if you enjoy trekking and we have all enjoyed it very much. More expensive than anywhere else we have been on our travels. Everybody knows lasagne
The next episode in this everyday story of travelling folk will be from Rio Turbio (The 1 horse left town a long time ago)
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