Uyuni (3650 metres asl), the Salar and South of the Salar

Wednesday 3rd November

The bus left at 11.30 punto, cramped, full and all luggage on the top of the bus under a tarpaulin. Toilet on board, no chance. Very nice journey again through the mountains and we duly arrived at Uyuni at 18.00 and found the Piedra Blanca Backpackers hostal. Our room was damp and, with the altitude, it made breathing very difficult. We found the Red Planet Expeditions following a recommendation from the hostal owners and after some negotiation we signed up for a 4 day, 3 night tour ending in Tupiza, with driver and English speaking guide. Sleeping bags would be provided as would hot water bottles (3). The whole trip was to be about 1200 km. We paid a deposit and had to hope that the one ATM in Uyuni still had some money. Despite a queue to use it there was still some money left so we were ok!

You really would not want to stay in Uyuni any longer than was necessary and the only reason to visit is the Salar (Salt Flat). A new International Airport has started being built, scheduled to be finished this year. At the current rate of progress add  10 years.

Thursday 4th November

At 11.00 we set off in a 13 year old, but immaculately maintained Toyota Land Cruiser 4 x 4 automatic with a mph speed clock with Alex the driver and Oscar the guide. 4 huge jerry cans full of petrol were on the roof and all of the luggage was in the back (normally where 3 more people go). We went out onto the Salar via Alex´s house and past where the new airport is being built.

First stop was the train graveyard where all of the trains were rusting away.

http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/jeffsadventures/jeffswalkabout/1150580940/tpod.html

There is still one line working, for goods only to, we think, Antofogasta in Chile.

We went across the Salar to Colchani for lunch where we saw how the salt was gathered , dried and packed for sale.

http://www.americasol.net/bolivia/sal_en_colchani/index_english.html

Then we were off to the Ojos de Salar  and past the Hoteles de Sal (hotels made of salt) to the Isla Incahuasi for a 360 degree view of the Salar (fantastic). Some of the cactii(?) were 900 plus years old.

http://www.google.com.ar/images?hl=es&q=hoteles+de+sal+uyuni&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=oYfmTPaWF8T68AaS4Y3jDA&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=2&ved=0CDIQsAQwAQ&biw=1430&bih=663


http://www.google.com.ar/images?um=1&hl=es&biw=1430&bih=663&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=isla+incahuasi+uyuni&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=

Next was the visit to Volcan Tunupa, the most beautiful volcano in the area. Legend has it that she spurned the advances of the male volcanos but one night she got a visit from one and had a baby boy volcano. The male volcano took the little volcano with him and Tunupa was so distraught that she erupted and her milk mixed with her tears and formed the Salar. Gets my vote.

http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Archivo:Volc%C3%A1n_Tunupa_-_Oruro_-_Bolivia.jpg

The Salar is a magical place with the white contrasting with the blue of the sky and the journey continued to Puerto Chuvica and our first salt hotel. We had dinner with a bottle of Bolivian vino collapso and slept very well and were not cold at all. Salt furniture and salt beds are fine. The only problem with salt walls is that their sound insulation capabilities are zero and you could hear a mouse fart in the next room!

http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/page/?o=RrzKj&page_id=170036&v=JR

This entry is here so that you can see what the Salt Hotel looks like. I take no responsibility for the looney tunes who are bicycling on the Saltar!

Friday 5th November (Day 2)

The first place off the Salar was San Juan with an excellent small museum with English translations. Also we visited a pre Inca graveyard with bodies buried in stone hills.

http://www.travelpod.com/travel-photo/vonkaz29/1/1266950555/the-necropolis-in-san-juan.jpg/tpod.html

Then a long journey with fantastic mountains and volcanos to Ollague, a semi live (?) volcano. Not quite sure how you get a semi live one but that is what the guide called it.

http://www.panoramio.com/photo/15302311

We then visited lots of lagunas , Hedionda and the Arbol de Piedra and rock formations in the desert.

http://www.google.com.ar/images?hl=es&q=laguna+hedionda&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=647mTOHULYH_8Ab79dnCCQ&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CCQQsAQwAA&biw=1430&bih=663

We ended up near Laguna Colorada (National Park) and slept at 4200 metres in a primitive hut! We had 8 blankets, a sleeping bag each and the hot water bottles and went to bed with all clothes on. Showers? Hot water? Deam on! It was very windy and the temperature outside in the morning was -10 (without the wind chill).

Saturday 6th November (Day 3)

Off to Laguna Colorada with millions of flamingos.

http://www.google.com.ar/images?um=1&hl=es&biw=1430&bih=663&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=laguna+colorada&aq=f&aqi=g2&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=

Then up to Sol de Manaña (4712 metres asl) for fumaroles

http://www.trekearth.com/gallery/South_America/Bolivia/South/Potosi/Quetena_Grande/photo975302.htm

and then to Aguas Thermales where one could bathe in a hot spring. No takers in our camp.

http://www.minube.com/fotos/rincon/82562/406991

Then off to Laguna Salada and Laguna Verde both in the shadow of Volcan Licancabur (5920 metres asl)

http://www.google.com.ar/images?hl=es&q=laguna+verde,+bolivia&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=mZnmTJW_KY-q8Ab6iMnBDA&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CCAQsAQwAA&biw=1430&bih=663

Next came the Desierto de Dali with very weird rock formations in the desert.

http://www.google.com.ar/images?um=1&hl=es&biw=1430&bih=663&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=desierto+de+Dali&btnG=Buscar&aq=f&aqi=g1&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=


We had a picnic in a town square, the name of which totally eludes me but the one horse had left a long time ago and then we pushed on to San Antonio de Lipez and went through the ghost town ( see picture). Rumour has it that the priest told the villagers that he needed gold from them to make a gold bell. When he got the gold he did a runner and was never seen again. Then wierd things started to happen in the village so everybody left. Not sure when all of this happened but a long time ago.

http://www.viajeros.com/fotos/la-expedicion-al-salar-a-a-a-1a-a-etapa-entre-el-desierto-y-la-altura/260736

We slept in San Antonio which was high but not freezing. Marianne took no chances and had a sleeping bag and two hot water bottles.

Sunday 7th November( Day 4)

We left at 08.00 and had a fantastic drive through mountains, fords, rivers with lots of llamas and most at very high altitude. We arrived Tupiza mid afternoon and checked into the Valle Hermosa hostel. Weather very warm.

We saw a parade in the square in the evening with music and dancing. Miss Bolivia and entourage were in the parade. Tupiza does not possess an ATM!

The 4 day trip was absolutely fantastic and we would totally recommend it to everybody. It was bloody cold 1 night but with sleeping bags and hot water bottles we managed fine.


It seemed that the only restaurants open were Italian, so we had an Italian dinner.